Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11802791 times)

GeoFusion · « **Reply #12510 on:** March 01, 2016, 08:59:51 PM »

Quote from: verpies on March 01, 2016, 08:48:20 PM

That is a fascinating mode of operation.
Apparently there is some feedback from the output to the control pins of the TL494 but this feedback should not result in a chaotic mode without the "Kacher" - it should be a steady squeal like the one that happens with a speaker and microphone feeding back into each other.

verpies,

Yes, some soort of feedback is there. I think this is when it is Synchronizing .
Without kacher it does not have this squeel if you could also call it.
It would continuously squeel/hiss when having it in the right setting on duty cycle pot and ofcourse freq for the resonance.
Yes it would sound like distortion of a speaker. It is stay untill you pass your hand over where the lights Dim or become very bright.
When disconnecting only kacher and leaving pushpull on, there is no light.

itsu · « **Reply #12511 on:** March 01, 2016, 10:25:10 PM »

Jeg,

Quote

I wonder with just your inductor line in place (without using the 28T), what is the voltage levels that you reach across your output capacitor when your load is this 40W bulb?

When i connect my FWBR directly to the grenade (28 turn secondary disconnected) and load the FWBR with the 40W bulb, i have 207V DC during resonance across this bulb.

Itsu

itsu · « **Reply #12512 on:** March 01, 2016, 10:29:43 PM »

Quote from: T-1000 on March 01, 2016, 07:20:01 PM

Itsu,
There is one thing to do in the series resonance setup - let that power supply support series resonance back on input then see how much power the circuit will take from the battery. This should be interesting to see.

Cheers!

T-1000, when i feed the 24V from the PS back to the battery 24V input, there is a slow (~1Hz) dimming cycle of the 40W bulb.
When i disconnect the 24V from the battery the system goes off directly, as expected.

Itsu

Dog-One · « **Reply #12513 on:** March 01, 2016, 10:51:06 PM »

Quote from: itsu on March 01, 2016, 10:29:43 PM

T-1000, when i feed the 24V from the PS back to the battery 24V input, there is a slow (~1Hz) dimming cycle of the 40W bulb.
When i disconnect the 24V from the battery the system goes off directly, as expected.

Exact same behavior as mine. This cycling (as I mentioned previously) is probably due to the caps in the power supply holding voltage above some threshold until it can no longer satisfy the demand. Once it turns off, input power catches up and the power supply restarts.

When increasing load to the power supply, just before the point when this cycling starts is unity. Then you compare input power to the PWM against output power from the PSU; that difference tells you the minimum power gain needed to be self looping. I would expect with your loss-less clamp circuit this difference to be somewhere between 50 and 100 watts, or 10 to 20 percent. It could be higher if you detect any heating in the yoke or grenade/induction coils.

Tinsel has stated on numerous occasions if you can develop a device that provides 30% power gain, he guarantees he can loop it. This is what we are shooting for.

NickZ · « **Reply #12514 on:** March 02, 2016, 02:06:38 AM »

A curious thing about the "chaotic mode"... None of Ruslan or Akula's devices make any detectable noise. No hissing, either.
Even when the running frequency of Ruslan's device was running at a normally hear-able 15khz. His device made no noise.
What can this indicate about the chaotic mode?
When my Mazilli goes into that mode, there is increased draw from the input source, and the components get hot after a while. And the scope readings are not very clean, either.
So, is this kind of chaotic/hissing mode, something to tune for? Or something to avoid?
I have noticed that at resonance, at times there is HV running throughout the induction circuits, as well. And will even light a neon bulb anywhere on the induction circuits coils and tuning caps. But, this does not happen all the time. Nor do I let it go at that mode for more that a few seconds. Which I should of done when testing the mediator coils, instead of letting it run to the destruction of most of the Mazilli components, all 8 or so, of them.

GeoFusion · « **Reply #12515 on:** March 02, 2016, 02:29:30 AM »

Hi Nickz

This Chaotic mode is different for sure Nick, it is not the same as how a yoke does on a mazilli circuit.
It's when you reach the right tuning or lets say getting close to a good Synchronization.
Imagine heaving speakers creating queels and distortion on the device.
Mediator Toroid and yoke are making the same noises when it happens.
only happens when the Kacher / Tesla is on. if pushpul is on without kacher there is no chaotic Synch.
But remember this, This only happens in this particular setup where I have this 4inch toroid as mediator it will happen,
for what I know up till now. Ibrahim also witnessed it, we can all hear it in the videos back on my channel.
You will need atleast a TL494/iR2110 pushpul circuit. pot for Duty Cycle and pot for Frequency.
Duty cycle at final stages of fine tuning led me to this recent effect and keeping resonance on inductor with freq pot.

Akula and Ruslan, They have it silent because somehow they know how or where to silence it,
Might be because they don't use mediator core.

Soon others will replicate the system without the use of toroid as for a madiative form,
Using circuits instead of the toroid.
as seen How Akula has done it , Ruslan and Sergey.

Cheerz~

NickZ · « **Reply #12516 on:** March 02, 2016, 03:16:20 AM »

Geo: Yes, I've watched your videos, and am aware of the load hissing noise. But, the "chaotic mode" that we have talked about previously by Itsu, was from the induction circuits and yoke/grenade, and it's ringing sound, even without the addition of the Kacher's output. And it certainly does not kill if the duty cycle is raise beyond 30%. Or, producing no light, if the Kacher circuit is not operating. So, there is a difference from the yoke's normal ringing or chaotic mode to your hissing mode.
Your system was resonating (and ringing) at 10khz, as I mentioned in my video of your device. That is it's normal induction running frequency. The hissing noise is something else, again, and is not something that Ruslan has had, nor Akula. So, I'm not sure it's something to avoid, instead of pursue. We'll see, but up to now none of the efforts anyone has come up with have produced a self runner. And what has me worried is the lack of output at the bulbs by those running from a Tl 494 circuit, from a 24v, 15 PS, and which will not light a 100w bulb, or higher wattage bulbs.
We'll see what happen once Itsu gets his HV circuit going. Still holding my breath...

Jeg · « **Reply #12517 on:** March 02, 2016, 07:35:48 AM »

Quote from: itsu on March 01, 2016, 10:25:10 PM

Jeg,

When i connect my FWBR directly to the grenade (28 turn secondary disconnected) and load the FWBR with the 40W bulb, i have 207V DC during resonance across this bulb.

Itsu

Thank you Itsu.
Did you notice your current drawing at your input while extracting this 207V dc across the 40W load?

itsu · « **Reply #12518 on:** March 02, 2016, 10:39:49 AM »

Quote from: Dog-One on March 01, 2016, 10:51:06 PM

Exact same behavior as mine. This cycling (as I mentioned previously) is probably due to the caps in the power supply holding voltage above some threshold until it can no longer satisfy the demand. Once it turns off, input power catches up and the power supply restarts.

When increasing load to the power supply, just before the point when this cycling starts is unity. Then you compare input power to the PWM against output power from the PSU; that difference tells you the minimum power gain needed to be self looping. I would expect with your loss-less clamp circuit this difference to be somewhere between 50 and 100 watts, or 10 to 20 percent. It could be higher if you detect any heating in the yoke or grenade/induction coils.

Tinsel has stated on numerous occasions if you can develop a device that provides 30% power gain, he guarantees he can loop it. This is what we are shooting for.

Dog-One,

i understand what you are saying, but it don't make sense to me, the 24V from the battery is always there (untill in remove it), so there
is no need for the yoke system/resonance to collapse which it seems to do.

It looks to me more like some slow oscillation due to interference, but we are talking about DC, unless there is some kind of charge / supply
cycle going on in the battery.

I have a big diode at the PS side, perhaps i should also put one at the battery side.

Thanks, Itsu

itsu · « **Reply #12519 on:** March 02, 2016, 10:40:40 AM »

Quote from: Jeg on March 02, 2016, 07:35:48 AM

Thank you Itsu.
Did you notice your current drawing at your input while extracting this 207V dc across the 40W load?

Jeg, yes it always is around 5A when in resonance.

Itsu

Jeg · « **Reply #12520 on:** March 02, 2016, 10:47:48 AM »

@Verpies

The situation is this:

We have the "inductor" line in which a series resonance takes place between an inductor and a tuning cap. When system is working and by the time, inductance changes value due to temperature. Also it changes value when we add load. So frequency of push pull has also to change so to find resonance again inside the inductor line. The only steady value is that of the tuning capacitor. Is it possible to give some guidelines on what has to be done so to correct the frequency that our push pull injects in to this inductor line? Even a block diagram will help.

Thanks

Jeg · « **Reply #12521 on:** March 02, 2016, 10:52:52 AM »

Quote from: itsu on March 02, 2016, 10:40:40 AM

Jeg, yes it always is around 5A when in resonance.

Itsu

Thanks Itsu! I'll also check my consumption as i think that it was only 2A when in resonance. But i am not sure and not home right now.

Dog-One · « **Reply #12522 on:** March 02, 2016, 10:54:12 AM »

Quote from: itsu on March 02, 2016, 10:39:49 AM

I have a big diode at the PS side, perhaps i should also put one at the battery side.

Okay, I was thinking you only had the output of the power supply connected to a load. Gotcha.

I might need to see a video to be sure, but I'm guessing your power supply is actually trying to charge the battery, which would put even more load on it.

Sounds like the diode you have in-place protects the power supply from being back-feed by the battery, but once the power supply's voltage goes above the battery voltage, then the current flow would reverse and that diode no longer helps.

So if I have things straight in my mind, yes you would need two diodes--one between the battery and the PWM; then another between the power supply and PWM.

That sound right to you?

M@

T-1000 · « **Reply #12523 on:** March 02, 2016, 11:08:20 AM »

There are two reasons why to keep PS looped back into input - the tuning involves it as part of circuit and it also will compensate power required for series resonance. The power draw from the battery is your losses and that what I was asking about - how much? Also when you have it looped the lighting of the bulb also has interest on how much power it take in that condition.

Also I was working in background with Oleg's DC-DC step-up converter and Tesla driver circuits. There are possibly intentional errors in original schematics and after fixing them all I hooked up small Tesla coil. It worked but the IRFP460 mosfet is no good for driving Tesla transformer primary at 1MHz+ range. The gate-source junction consumes about 100mA there which show inefficiency of that MOSFET. That also cause almost short circuit when hooked up with DC-DC converter. Will try other MOSFETs to find best one.

The DC-DC converter transformer details which was missing in Olegs schematics: I made 24+24T primary on small transformer with 1mm diameter magnet wire and the secondary was around 0.25mm for target voltage of about 130V. It gets up to 145V DC in in open end and drops to 87V with 15W 220V microwave bulb.

Cheers!

verpies · « **Reply #12524 on:** March 02, 2016, 11:14:20 AM »

Quote from: Jeg on March 02, 2016, 10:47:48 AM

@Verpies
We have the "inductor" line in which a series resonance takes place between an inductor and a tuning cap. When system is working and by the time, inductance changes value due to temperature. Also it changes value when we add load. So frequency of push pull has also to change so to find resonance again inside the inductor line. The only steady value is that of the tuning capacitor. Is it possible to give some guidelines on what has to be done so to correct the frequency that our push pull injects in to this inductor line? Even a block diagram will help.

That's medium easy for me to draw

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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11802791 times)

GeoFusion

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itsu

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itsu

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