That's great!
I wish everyone was doing that instead of dumbly multiplying non-DC Volts times non-DC Amps.
Also, if you use an incandescent light bulb with non-coiled filament then your power measurements will be accurate even it high frequencies.

...and if you calibrate the bulb's brightness with known DC then you will be able to measure power in absolute units (Watts).
Warning: It is not linear - see here.

Yes, this should form an integral part of all the fundamental experiments encouraged by Tiger.

Nice N. Tesla wireless power transmission tricks!

This is how the magician refines his art 

  @ All:
  "Great work! AT LAST somebody is actually measuring the light output with an objective instrumental method"

  This method although it works fine and is very precise, is not my invention, nor the first time it has been used.  It was first shown by Jonny Davro on the Joule Thief thread.  I don't normally even need to use it as my two eyes still work well enough to tell me that I'm not getting the bulb brightness that I am looking for, yet, without even needing to use these methods. But, for circuit testing and tuning purposes, such as what Lasersaber is showing in the video link that I posted, it can certainly be a big help, and even without all the needed instruments, that he is showing. Just a simple multimeter, and photo resistor from a garden light.
I just wanted to give the credit, to where the credit is due. But, I knew that you test instrument lovers, would also like this simple and effective way to go. And those without scopes, lumin meters, and such, would benefit even more.
I also wanted you to know that I'm not always going at this as blindly, as it may seam.

  I realize that when someone like Wesley or Tiger lights up a bulb, then states that the output is 150 watts, or even a 1000 watt output, that it may not be anywhere close to that output, but yet the bulb still looks fairly bright, never the less.
 
  I don't think that Tinsels snake oil videos have anything to do with or relation to TK's several KW systems. And if so, then I would love to see it done even with 100 watt bulb. Snake oil, and all.

  One more thing.  I'd like to thank MenofFather for providing the information about the device and output that Tiger is working on. To avoid any further confusion, and waste of time in replications.  IF true... as we may be the last to really know for sure. Considering the poor men in black, won't be barking up the wrong tree.

Good evening all.

I have been in contact with T-1000 and he has been able to give me a greater understanding of these devices, but I still have a heck of a lot to learn!!

I have attached my interpretation of the Test case as a schematic with a frequency of 750 Khz (the frequency I will use) which has determined the wire length of L5 @ 100 M. (1/4 wave of 750Khz)
I am hoping to get L4 wound tomorrow.

Please let me know if I appear to have made any mistakes?

Cheers Grum.

    @ amandml:
    Thank you very much for that diagram, that is what we needed, to start with.
    There are some things that I would think are little different from viewing the video.
For example: The yoke 3 turn coil output goes to a series connected capacitor, then to the "resonator coil", that is something like about 12 turns, wound on top of the big air coil, and is also wound in the center of it, then is going back to the yoke. That big air coil is something like 50 turns, and is only connected to the earth ground at the lower end, and the other upper end is going to the various bulbs, and possibly (but not certain) that after the bulbs, it is then going back to the earth ground, although that is not shown.
  The feed-back coil is mounted at the bottom of the big air coil and below the resonator coil, and also of about 12 turns, and then both ends of the feed-back coil are going in parallel to the big filter capacitor, then to the rectifier, and then to the inverter.  That is how I see it. 
There is of course be more to it, and it may also not be correct, as well.
 
   

I have attached my interpretation of the Test case as a schematic with a frequency of 750 Khz (the frequency I will use) which has determined the wire length of L5 @ 100 M. (1/4 wave of 750Khz)
I am hoping to get L4 wound tomorrow.
Please let me know if I appear to have made any mistakes?

Hi Grum. Hard to say if there are mistakes since you are just doing a test case, unless you mean mistakes from T-1000's exact intended test case. T-1000 should be able to help you with that. Otherwise, a couple of things. Although you can cut a wire length to about 1/4 wavelength for a given frequency, the actual frequency a coil will resonate at for a given wire length will be different than what that same wire would be resonant at if it were a straight wire. This is also affected by proximity of other objects, even for a straight wire. Also once you start combining coils together in close proximity and have other components connected in as well, this will further change the resonant frequency of your coil. So you have an actual resonance frequency for a coil that will be determined by what is connected to that coil, and what other components like other coils and other components are in close proximity to the coil, and even other components that are connected to the other coils that are in close proximity to your coil will likely affect the actual resonant frequency of your coil. All these other factors can make a big difference on the resulting actual resonant frequency of a coil. For example, change something that is connected to a primary coil, and it will likely have an effect on the resonant frequency of a secondary winding, and vice versa.

It all depends on what you are aiming for though. If you really just want a coil wound with a wire length that is about 1/4 wavelength in length, and don't care about the actual resonant frequency of the coil when it is connected into the circuit, and all the other components and coils are in place, then you could do it that way. Finding the exact resonant frequency of a coil when everything else is in place and connected in will probably involve some testing methods, such as driving the primary with a signal generator and tuning around to find the actual resonant frequency (where the voltage across the coil peaks) of a given coil circuit. There are other methods as well, but using a signal generator and a scope can make  things easier. Regarding the series resonant circuit formed by C2 and L4, you will probably find the L3 winding inductance also affects the resonant frequency of this series circuit, as well as the other factors I mentioned above will probably have some impact as well. It is probably easier to wind coils to approximate lengths and then connect into your circuit, and then use a signal generator at the input to tune around and look and see where various parts of your circuit are actually resonating at. You can then make adjustments accordingly from there.

Hi Grum. Hard to say if there are mistakes since you are just doing a test case, unless you mean mistakes from T-1000's exact intended test case. T-1000 should be able to help you with that. Otherwise, a couple of things. Although you can cut a wire length to about 1/4 wavelength for a given frequency, the actual frequency a coil will resonate at for a given wire length will be different than what that same wire would be resonant at if it were a straight wire. This is also affected by proximity of other objects, even for a straight wire. Also once you start combining coils together in close proximity and have other components connected in as well, this will further change the resonant frequency of your coil. So you have an actual resonance frequency for a coil that will be determined by what is connected to that coil, and what other components like other coils and other components are in close proximity to the coil, and even other components that are connected to the other coils that are in close proximity to your coil will likely affect the actual resonant frequency of your coil. All these other factors can make a big difference on the resulting actual resonant frequency of a coil. For example, change something that is connected to a primary coil, and it will likely have an effect on the resonant frequency of a secondary winding, and vice versa.

It all depends on what you are aiming for though. If you really just want a coil wound with a wire length that is about 1/4 wavelength in length, and don't care about the actual resonant frequency of the coil when it is connected into the circuit, and all the other components and coils are in place, then you could do it that way. Finding the exact resonant frequency of a coil when everything else is in place and connected in will probably involve some testing methods, such as driving the primary with a signal generator and tuning around to find the actual resonant frequency (where the voltage across the coil peaks) of a given coil circuit. There are other methods as well, but using a signal generator and a scope can make  things easier. Regarding the series resonant circuit formed by C2 and L4, you will probably find the L3 winding inductance also affects the resonant frequency of this series circuit, as well as the other factors I mentioned above will probably have some impact as well. It is probably easier to wind coils to approximate lengths and then connect into your circuit, and then use a signal generator at the input to tune around and look and see where various parts of your circuit are actually resonating at. You can then make adjustments accordingly from there.

Dear Void and menofFather.

Many thanks for the input. If I am correct choke L5 is designed to pick up the voltage at the ends of the wire, due to it being at 1/4 the wavelength of the series resonant circuit L3 C2 L4. I think that this is the area where as you said, attention to the resonance will be critical.

T-1000 told me that this is the first step in a series of tests, so we shall all have a greater understanding of how these devices work. The outcome of Test Case 1 and the scope traces seen at L6 will then determine how Test Case 2 should proceed. If I understood T-1000 correctly?? This device is, in effect, a Tesla single wire transmitter and reciever in one unit??

Cheers to all, Grum.