Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11805742 times)

NickZ · « **Reply #4875 on:** July 25, 2014, 10:27:50 PM »

Itsu:
You might try to wind the other yoke as is shown by Akula's first video, if the idea is to work towards a self runner, not just an induction heater circuit.
I now have both primary and secondary coils all wound in the same direction, unlike the picture, although I found no difference from when I had the primary as is shown in the picture below, where to two primaries are opposite.
I now have tuned the primary coil to 5 turns, and 20 turns on the secondary coil, the 1:4 turns ration, as recommended by some. This has given me the best output so far, but with overheating of the fets, as you are also now experiencing.
Please, be careful with your fets now, keep your finger or heat meter on them, as it only took some seconds at 24v to blow out both of them on my first set up.
My chokes can also get so hot the insulation on the wires will melt.
This and more is what I'm still working on...

itsu · « **Reply #4876 on:** July 25, 2014, 10:41:02 PM »

Quote from: NickZ on July 25, 2014, 10:27:50 PM

Itsu:
Thanks for your reply.
You might try to wind the other yoke as is shown by Akula's first video, if the idea is to work towards a self runner, not just an induction heater circuit.
The primary coil is 5 turns, to 20 turn on the secondary now. Or 1:4 turns ration, as recommended by some. All winding wound in the same direction now.

I might

, is that primary 2x 5 turns?

Regards Itsu

NickZ · « **Reply #4877 on:** July 25, 2014, 10:52:42 PM »

Yes, 5 or 6 turns on each side of the center tap. I had placed more turns on the yoke originally, so that I could remove some if needed to tune to maximum output.
Of course, placing more turns on the primary coil causes less heating of the fets, but also less output, as well. So, it's a balancing act.
However, adding the HV to my Akula type aircoil's output side can somehow change the behavior of the fet heating issue, so I'm looking into that angle now, as well.
And yes, there is HV going back to the battery rails, as well. I don't know what to think about this, as it may cause other problems, in time.

itsu · « **Reply #4878 on:** July 25, 2014, 10:57:09 PM »

To be complete for this special mode thingy, here i went back to 12V (2 batteries in parallel)
and again it goes into special mode, but now somewhat more orderly.
We have a balanced situation again with some spikes, but the sine wave halfs now show some ringing, see screenshot below.
This ringing shows a full cycle of about 40us which means 25Khz.

Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfS865X4SZQ&feature=youtu.be

Regards Itsu

NickZ · « **Reply #4879 on:** July 26, 2014, 02:03:05 AM »

Thanks again Itsu. Well, at least we are finding that the fets do get hot, and the battery has nothing to do with it. You know that just one of those 12v 7aH batteries is enough to start a car, several times over, a big car. I have done that with mine, more than once.
To get the bulbs bright, you'll need to rewind your yoke coils as I've suggested. Remember that the primary yoke coil winds should NOT go past the yoke halves, or splits, as Geo has also suggested.
IF you try two 100 watt bulbs instead, you'll probably find that they will light up much brighter than two 60 watt bulbs will. Also try to place tuning caps in parallel, on the yoke secondary side, 0.22 to 0.47uf, 650 volts or higher, in order to tune for resonance. You have not tuned to balanced resonance with this set up, yet.
IF you have magnets especially magnetite magnets, try them on the yoke to see what they do to the signal on the scope. That would be good to see.

No I'm not trying to burn your fets, but keep a finger on them, as you go higher in output. You'll probably find that the fets will also need fans on them as well, good sized fans.

EDIT:
I just viewed this video, and thought that maybe some of you might find it interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPFmhgehS6c

magpwr · « **Reply #4880 on:** July 26, 2014, 05:08:29 AM »

Quote from: NickZ on July 26, 2014, 02:03:05 AM

Thanks again Itsu. Well, at least we are finding that the fets do get hot, and the battery has nothing to do with it. You know that just one of those 12v 7aH batteries is enough to start a car, several times over, a big car. I have done that with mine, more than once.
To get the bulbs bright, you'll need to rewind your yoke coils as I've suggested. Remember that the primary yoke coil winds should NOT go past the yoke halves, or splits, as Geo has also suggested.
IF you try two 100 watt bulbs instead, you'll probably find that they will light up much brighter than two 60 watt bulbs will. Also try to place tuning caps in parallel, on the yoke secondary side, 0.22 to 0.47uf, 650 volts or higher, in order to tune for resonance. You have not tuned to balanced resonance with this set up, yet.
IF you have magnets especially magnetite magnets, try them on the yoke to see what they do to the signal on the scope. That would be good to see.

No I'm not trying to burn your fets, but keep a finger on them, as you go higher in output. You'll probably find that the fets will also need fans on them as well, good sized fans.

EDIT:
I just viewed this video, and thought that maybe some of you might find it interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPFmhgehS6c

hi Nickz,

Thanks for posting this link of Akula nanosecond secret pulser.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPFmhgehS6c

This was the missing puzzle of Akula which i was hoping for which i have missed out.

Base on oscilloscope the frequency is running at close to 100khz.(This is the simple part)

The long straight line which you can't miss shooting downwards as seen in the scope represent the back emf at around 354volts.
Then there is delay of 250ns to 2ms depending on the type of bulb used the low watt version he was using around 250ns the high watt bulb was using 2ms delay.

I can see high voltage capacitors 2.2nf 2500volts or 2 x 2.2nf capacitor connected in series.

For nanosecond pulse i think transistor is able to do the job.

Do anyone else have any idea beside assembling a pwm generator to generate 100khz with 2ms delay between pulse(This is the easy part) and think about the coil winding/interfacing part.To emulate signal.

NickZ · « **Reply #4881 on:** July 26, 2014, 06:41:43 AM »

Itsu:
I thought that Akula's video would fill some gaps... Glad you liked it. It helps to watch all his videos in the sequence that they were made, in order to see his development towards the self runners. He is an amazing guy, no doubt.
Our job now is to make the best replication (hopefully of his second device), maybe in our own way. And to tune for this sincronized resonant peak, that can blow our lights bulbs right out.

Picture:
Of my Akula yoke core connected to the Akula air coil resonator, and a Joule Ringer HV pulser, also, which is for now connected to the air cores output coil.
Only one 100 watt bulb is lit (top left), not any more for now on this pic below, but its pretty bright. I'm still tuning.
Sorry for showing such a mess... again. But, I'm working, at times, at least.

corry · « **Reply #4882 on:** July 26, 2014, 08:00:29 AM »

Quote from: 00 on July 25, 2014, 05:45:05 PM

simple touch light

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTVlVBkm_CA

00

Thanks 00!

...Back EMF ? ...Resonance ? ...OU !??

TinselKoala · « **Reply #4883 on:** July 26, 2014, 08:09:05 AM »

Quote from: corry on July 26, 2014, 08:00:29 AM

Thanks 00!

...Back EMF ? ...Resonance ? ...OU !??

Using a 9 volt battery to charge a cap and light up an LED! A demonstrated dependence of the circuit on the inductance of the coil set! Yes, that's pretty neat! You're easily impressed!

Here, think about this then:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQi4jz2puio
Back EMF? Surely. Resonance? You bet, resonance galore in several stages of the demonstration. OU !?? Nope, just ordinary capacitor behaviour, combined with a clever wireless power transfer system.

corry · « **Reply #4884 on:** July 26, 2014, 08:17:28 AM »

00 do not post off topic. He wanted to suggest something relevant.

TinselKoala · « **Reply #4885 on:** July 26, 2014, 08:24:42 AM »

Quote from: NickZ on July 26, 2014, 06:41:43 AM

Itsu:
I thought that Akula's video would fill some gaps... Glad you liked it. It helps to watch all his videos in the sequence that they were made, in order to see his development towards the self runners. He is an amazing guy, no doubt.
Our job now is to make the best replication (hopefully of his second device), maybe in our own way. And to tune for this sincronized resonant peak, that can blow our lights bulbs right out.

Picture:
Of my Akula yoke core connected to the Akula air coil resonator, and a Joule Ringer HV pulser, also, which is for now connected to the air cores output coil.
Only one 100 watt bulb is lit (top left), not any more for now on this pic below, but its pretty bright. I'm still tuning.
Sorry for showing such a mess... again. But, I'm working, at times, at least.

I like your setup, it makes me smile.

.

Your oscillator-primary portion of the build is starting to look much cleaner and symmetrical. I am not kidding when I tell you that layout of these parts is very important, and the higher in frequency you go the more important layout is. I learned something last night that cost me two blown mosfets and a fractured choke ferrite, not to mention having to rewind a new choke. Simply slipping a ferrite bead with a few windings over one leg of my primary circuit did the trick, by effectively "choking" off the power in the primary tank, like opening the coil almost. This resulted in instant overheating of the chokes and popping the mosfets.
I still think your mosfet heating problem is because they aren't switching at "zero crossings" like the circuit is supposed to do. If they are carrying current when they are actually being switched they will heat up a lot, and this is caused, in my experience, by too much inductance and unbalanced inductance in the primary tank circuit legs, and maybe even things like "knots" or restrictions in the physical wiring layout. If I were you I'd run two "buses", straight bare copper heavy conductors, parallel, from the mosfets assembly toward the primary coil, about 4 inches long and 2 inches apart, and solder the capacitors across these conductors, and use some kind of secure connectors at the coil end like smooth solder joins or heavy ring terminals and bolts. Make sure both legs (or three if you are using a center-tapped variant) are as symmetrical as possible , mosfets caps and buses. Standard 3-terminal connector blocks make excellent mosfet sockets for TO247 devices.

TinselKoala · « **Reply #4886 on:** July 26, 2014, 08:33:01 AM »

In my video, about five different completely relevant principles are illustrated:

1. The proper functioning of a tuned ZVS Royer/Mazilli oscillator using power mosfets as the wireless power transmitter.
2. The proper reception of the power from the transmitter by a precisely tuned circuit with a concealed receiving antenna loop.
3. The proper conversion and rectification of the received power to DC to charge up a reservoir capacitor.
4. The operation of a LED from a Joule Thief circuit at very great efficiency, running on the stored energy in the wirelessly charged capacitor, capable of running for so long I had to put in a bleeder switch to _dump charge_ to cut the demo down to a reasonable duration.
5. The demonstration of dielectric recovery, where you can see the system voltage _climbing_ while powering the LED brightly, with no outside power coming in (transmitter off, hence undetectable.)

Think about it.

Hoppy · « **Reply #4887 on:** July 26, 2014, 10:22:30 AM »

Quote from: itsu on July 25, 2014, 10:57:09 PM

To be complete for this special mode thingy, here i went back to 12V (2 batteries in parallel)
and again it goes into special mode, but now somewhat more orderly.
We have a balanced situation again with some spikes, but the sine wave halfs now show some ringing, see screenshot below.
This ringing shows a full cycle of about 40us which means 25Khz.

Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfS865X4SZQ&feature=youtu.be

Regards Itsu

Itsu,

Does the effect go completely with 3 parallel batteries on that particular setup?

Regards
Hoppy

corry · « **Reply #4888 on:** July 26, 2014, 03:13:29 PM »

Quote from: TinselKoala on July 26, 2014, 08:09:05 AM

...OU !?? Nope, just ordinary capacitor behaviour, combined with a clever wireless power transfer system.

From a hidden source? It what do you mean?

Void · « **Reply #4889 on:** July 26, 2014, 04:14:33 PM »

Quote from: NickZ on July 26, 2014, 02:03:05 AM

I just viewed this video, and thought that maybe some of you might find it interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPFmhgehS6c

Yes, I have watched it. I don't speak Russian, but it seems Akula is demonstrating that you
actually need microsecond or millisecond width back pulses to get any power out to a lightbulb load.

Note to Stivep:
It would be awesome if Wesley can find the time sometime to translate both this video on pulse width ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPFmhgehS6c ),
and this other video by Akula in which he goes over his theory about what he is calling ferromagnetic resonance:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-EmSMOYXVc
Also, can someone forward this request on to stivep? It would be very much appreciated. Not sure if he regularly reads this forum or not.
I am still trying to figure out if Akula really has something or if he is just a trickster, but the language barrier when watching his videos makes it very tough,
espcecially when he is explaining theories and principles as in the above two mentioned Akula videos. A line by line translation of these two videos would be awesome.

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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11805742 times)

NickZ

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itsu

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NickZ

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itsu

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