Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11200658 times)

NickZ · « **Reply #4230 on:** May 13, 2014, 07:16:20 PM »

I would think that I'm pulling less than 4 amps at 11 to 12v from the battery.
Here (below) is a previous video, (sorry about it being so blurry).
It shows the feed back path that I have used to connect back to the input side. Although this works to a degree, but it's still not self running. It may help to keep the battery from discharging at the same rate though. Similar to what Igor's video (below) is showing.
More tuning caps and 18v zeners are needed, along with further tuning of the feed back coil windings, etz...
My MRG feed back loop video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbSJx91vtO4

Here is Igor's latest video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiwyiJOrSWk&list=UUVesA155Der2tRd5vpyYdJw
or look for it yourself if this link doesn't get you there.

Hoppy · « **Reply #4231 on:** May 15, 2014, 01:50:45 PM »

Quote from: NickZ on May 13, 2014, 07:16:20 PM

I would think that I'm pulling less than 4 amps at 11 to 12v from the battery.

Nick,

That would be around 48W and divided between 6 lamps, would be around 6W per lamp, allowing for power losses in the oscillator and additional coils. I think you have more than that but of course its not really possible to tell from just looking at the brightness of the lamps, especially on a video that invariably enhances the level of illumination to the eye.

NickZ · « **Reply #4232 on:** May 15, 2014, 06:38:54 PM »

Hoppy:
Ok, thanks for your calculations.

Even if I'm pulling 10 watts per lamp, try to light a 100 watt bulb on just 10 watts, normally.
The camera compensation is dropping the actual bulb brightness, not making it look brighter than they actually are. If I even glance into the 150w flood light, I'm blinded for a while.
I still think that I'm probably pulling more like about 1/2 of that, or about 5 watts per 100 watt load.
In any case, it's still a very economical device, that can be connected to solar, etz...

Hoppy, if one were to connect a 12v battery to a regular inverter to light 650 watts load, you would find that the total draw would be higher than 650w. More like about 800 watts.
Even if the bulbs are not fully lit on my device, the 35 to 48 watt draw is less than 1/10 or 1/20 of what a normal battery to inverter would draw.
So, this is very promising...

Hoppy · « **Reply #4233 on:** May 15, 2014, 07:02:03 PM »

Nick,

The only way to be sure what current your battery is delivering, is to measure it properly. Only then can you determine the power consumption with any degree of confidence.

NickZ · « **Reply #4234 on:** May 15, 2014, 07:38:12 PM »

Perhaps you can help to test for this load draw, as I can't read it, nor am I actually interested in the input to output readings. I only comment about this because it has been brought up. I'm still racking my head over a working feed back path.
But, as mentioned, if the draw per bulb is only 5 to 10 watts or so for every 100 watt bulb, I would tend to think that that's not too shabby. This can also be improved by further tuning.
Last night I connected a second yoke to the output of the first one. This second yoke's output is then rectified through a common bridge, then goes to a 200v 470uf electrolytic cap, which is connected to the input side. The results were not as good as when using the MRG coil, connected to the yoke output, and feeding that output to the input. As the rectifier gets very hot, somewhat like what Akula's first device did.
But, the yoke's output does seam to be much higher than that of the flyback, e-cores, or any other core that I've used so far. And so the additional heat at the rectifier may be due to that as well.

starcruiser · « **Reply #4235 on:** May 15, 2014, 08:51:39 PM »

Quote from: NickZ on May 15, 2014, 07:38:12 PM

Perhaps you can help to test for this load draw, as I can't read it, nor am I actually interested in the input to output readings. I only comment about this because it has been brought up. I'm still racking my head over a working feed back path.
But, as mentioned, if the draw per bulb is only 5 to 10 watts or so for every 100 watt bulb, I would tend to think that that's not too shabby. This can also be improved by further tuning.
Last night I connected a second yoke to the output of the first one. This second yoke's output is then rectified through a common bridge, then goes to a 200v 470uf electrolytic cap, which is connected to the input side. The results were not as good as when using the MRG coil, connected to the yoke output, and feeding that output to the input. As the rectifier gets very hot, somewhat like what Akula's first device did.
But, the yoke's output does seam to be much higher than that of the flyback, e-cores, or any other core that I've used so far. And so the additional heat at the rectifier may be due to that as well.

@NickZ, are the rectifiers used designed for higher frequencies than 400Hz? perhaps some Schotky diodes? I am thinking your heating is due to the ratings for the Bridge Rectifiers being used.

NickZ · « **Reply #4236 on:** May 18, 2014, 09:26:13 PM »

Ok, guys:
I've come across these two 200v, 20 amp rectifiers. I'm hoping that I can use them instead of a full wave bridge rectifier. As they seam to be fairly hefty, and I've mounted them on a heatsink, as well.
Can someone direct me as to how to connect them up to my feed back coil, and feed back capacitor. Also, if anyone has any idea as to what capacitor(s) may work best for this feed back path, please let me know, especially if you've tried it yourself.

The value on these high power switching mode rectifiers is:
LT 448
MBR20100CT

Data Sheet: http://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/-7080483806733188774

starcruiser · « **Reply #4237 on:** May 18, 2014, 10:03:24 PM »

These are 100V peak, 70v RMS diodes. Also doesn't look like these are designed for high Frequency

gyulasun · « **Reply #4238 on:** May 18, 2014, 10:39:00 PM »

Quote from: starcruiser on May 18, 2014, 10:03:24 PM

These are 100V peak, 70v RMS diodes. Also doesn't look like these are designed for high Frequency

Hi,

May I chime in with some more info: Here is a more decent data sheet http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/irf/mbr2080ct.pdf where it is included that "high frequency" operation is a feature. Also from another data sheet I found at random search http://www.hestore.hu/files/MBR20100.pdf this is written:

"For use in low voltage, high frequency inverters, free wheeling, and polarity protection applications"

Unfortunately, the reverse recovery time is not given.

NickZ: unfortunately you would need two more such diodes (alltogether 4) to form a normal full wave bridge rectifier from these types. I know that one such diode "body" includes two diodes but these diodes are not independent from each other but they have a common cathode: this prevents to build a full bridge from two such "bodies".

EDIT 1 to add: the 100V max peak voltage rating may be low for your output voltage?

EDIT 2: There is a full wave rectifier circuit variation with two (independent) diodes but this would double the output DC voltage. The drawback in this circuit for your MBR20100 types is that the output coil ought to give only 50V peak AC to match the 100V max rating. Nevertheless, see the second figure in this link http://www.daenotes.com/electronics/devices-circuits/voltage-multipler Should you test it, maybe first reduce the number of turns of the output coils or use taps on it. Use one-one diode from the two MBRs.

Gyula

SeaMonkey · « **Reply #4239 on:** May 18, 2014, 10:58:16 PM »

Those Common Cathode diode arrays
(TO-220) are quite convenient and
some are Schottky for efficient use
at high frequencies.

They're also manufactured in complement
form with Common Anode configuration so
that a pair (one of each configuration) can
be connected as a full wave bridge.

Well done Gyulasun, the datasheets are always
a good place to look.

Common Anode Rectifiers

More Common Anode Rectifiers

Detailed Datasheet MBRF20100CT

MBRF20100CTR Common Anode Rectifier

NickZ · « **Reply #4240 on:** May 19, 2014, 02:29:09 AM »

Ok, thanks a bunch guys for the info on the rectifiers.

I looked deeper into my electronics junk pile, and also found 4 of theses Schottky diodes :
STPS3045CT
7SAGH VW
PHL 702
Which are rated a only 45v, and something like 15 amps or so, (I can't remember).
Do you think that as I have 4 of them, this may be a better way to go for now?
I can always change them if they don't work out.

I'm trying to return only about 13 volts DC, or so, from the rectifier/cap loop back to the circuit input, so as to not blow my 12v zeners with too high a voltage.
Second yoke's core output (feed back yoke coil, red wire) has about 70 to 80 volts AC, and the DC output once rectified was about 13v, this is also with a cap placed in parallel to the rectifier. I'm still testing to see which electrolytic caps work best.
The feed back coils AC output can be adjusted by removing or adding turns on the smaller yoke's red coil wire.
What I also need help on, is a diagram that shows how to connect theses 4 STP diodes together, and onto my feed back circuit. Similar to what Igor Moroz has been doing with his rectifier bank, to recuperate the BEMF, and send that to a cap bank, then back to the input side. So, that's the plan, Sam.
I appreciate your help, from all of you.
Thanks, again.
NickZ

MenofFather · « **Reply #4241 on:** May 19, 2014, 08:16:33 AM »

Quote from: NickZ on May 18, 2014, 09:26:13 PM

Ok, guys:
I've come across these two 200v, 20 amp rectifiers. I'm hoping that I can use them instead of a full wave bridge rectifier. As they seam to be fairly hefty, and I've mounted them on a heatsink, as well.
Can someone direct me as to how to connect them up to my feed back coil, and feed back capacitor. Also, if anyone has any idea as to what capacitor(s) may work best for this feed back path, please let me know, especially if you've tried it yourself.

The value on these high power switching mode rectifiers is:
LT 448
MBR20100CT

Data Sheet: http://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/-7080483806733188774

"[size=78%]Can someone direct me as to how to connect them up to my feed back coil"[/size]
Nohow. You can only conect them in paralel and have half rectifing. Or you can use center tap from secondary coil, then like Don Smith make. Look how need conect bridge http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Diode_bridge_smoothing.svg/600px-Diode_bridge_smoothing.svg.png

By the way, one gay, who say, that replicated Dally divice, write me, then I ask him, that in his divice frenquency of nanosecond pulses is 553 or something like that, kiloherc (now not remember 523 or 532 or...). And coaxial cable not shorted at end. Other frenquency 27 kiloherc.

gyulasun · « **Reply #4242 on:** May 19, 2014, 12:02:31 PM »

Hi NickZ,

I have drawn a possible schematic for looping back your AC output (red wire) to the DC input of your setup. It seems that if we accept the 70 to 80V AC output as correct, then you have no enough diodes at the moment to safely rectify it. The 45V diodes (3045CT) may break down at the first switch-on. The MBR20100 types may work ok but you would need two more to build the 4 diode full wave bridge.

The possible feedback could be done via a series diode (I indicated it with a single MBR20100 (but a single 3045CT is good here too), the two diodes in the single package should be connected in parallel (MenofFather mentioned this too).

The loop back process would be: after building the setup as per the drawing, preload the output of the diode bridge with a 12V lamp of a few Watts (Capacitor Cp1 is to be tested for value, at least some 1000uF) and switch S is ON of course and then switch on the feedback switch Sfb and if you find no big change at anywhere (and the diode bridge does not heat up like earlier), then switch off the input 12V battery with switch S for just a moment.
And be careful to switch it on again quickly IF the brightness of the lamps starts suddenly increase... the battery can act as a very good 12V voltage hence current stabilizer: in case the output power is higher than input then a run-away situation happens when activating the feedback if there is no any voltage or current regulation embedded in the setup.
Ideally the feedback should be done by a hefty 12V DC-DC converter capable of supplying the 4-5A load current your setup may consume and such a converter should have a stabilized 12V output. The efficiency of such a converter can be around 90% so your setup should provide at least 110% (COP=1.1) to maintain just a self-run, without any additional outside load.

You mention the possibility of removing some turns from the red wire output coil: this is okay but then the received DC output voltage may not be enough for feedback from the diode bridge output.
Still you may try to remove some turns to arrive at say 40-45V AC output across the red coil and use the two diode full wave voltage double rectifier schematic I referred to above to arrive at the 13 to 15V DC across the Cp1 puffer cap (preloaded with a small lamp of a few watts). For this doubler rectifier you could use the two 100V MBR20100 types (individually connected them in parallel) and for the feedback then you could use one STPS3045 (also paralleled of course).

Gyula

magpwr · « **Reply #4243 on:** May 19, 2014, 06:05:07 PM »

Quote from: gyulasun on May 19, 2014, 12:02:31 PM

Hi NickZ,

I have drawn a possible schematic for looping back your AC output (red wire) to the DC input of your setup. It seems that if we accept the 70 to 80V AC output as correct, then you have no enough diodes at the moment to safely rectify it. The 45V diodes (3045CT) may break down at the first switch-on. The MBR20100 types may work ok but you would need two more to build the 4 diode full wave bridge.

The possible feedback could be done via a series diode (I indicated it with a single MBR20100 (but a single 3045CT is good here too), the two diodes in the single package should be connected in parallel (MenofFather mentioned this too).

The loop back process would be: after building the setup as per the drawing, preload the output of the diode bridge with a 12V lamp of a few Watts (Capacitor Cp1 is to be tested for value, at least some 1000uF) and switch S is ON of course and then switch on the feedback switch Sfb and if you find no big change at anywhere (and the diode bridge does not heat up like earlier), then switch off the input 12V battery with switch S for just a moment.
And be careful to switch it on again quickly IF the brightness of the lamps starts suddenly increase... the battery can act as a very good 12V voltage hence current stabilizer: in case the output power is higher than input then a run-away situation happens when activating the feedback if there is no any voltage or current regulation embedded in the setup.
Ideally the feedback should be done by a hefty 12V DC-DC converter capable of supplying the 4-5A load current your setup may consume and such a converter should have a stabilized 12V output. The efficiency of such a converter can be around 90% so your setup should provide at least 110% (COP=1.1) to maintain just a self-run, without any additional outside load.

You mention the possibility of removing some turns from the red wire output coil: this is okay but then the received DC output voltage may not be enough for feedback from the diode bridge output.
Still you may try to remove some turns to arrive at say 40-45V AC output across the red coil and use the two diode full wave voltage double rectifier schematic I referred to above to arrive at the 13 to 15V DC across the Cp1 puffer cap (preloaded with a small lamp of a few watts). For this doubler rectifier you could use the two 100V MBR20100 types (individually connected them in parallel) and for the feedback then you could use one STPS3045 (also paralleled of course).

Gyula

hi Nickz and gyulasun,

Few days back i have achieve OU in the sense that once i kick start 4700uf capacitor with a touch from 3.9volt Li-Ion battery.
I am using the same 3inch green toroid with 37 turns secondary and connected "10" 0 "10" turns -http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0u6gAUPlnTQ
capacitor(-) is connected to mosfet (source)and signal to mosfet is supply via 1k resistor from signal generator and connected to cap (-).The collector of mosfet is connected to 10 turns and the other end to cap (+).

Using 1 diode from secondary connected to capacitor(+) and another secondary output connected to cap(-) at 2500khz with 2% or 3% duty cycle only then i noticed the capacitor voltage is going up to around 3+volts without battery connected at all.

My experiment revealed using 1 fast response diode produce result (capacitor voltage does go up without battery) produce results as compared to using full bridge consisting of 4 fast response diode 600volts(which is overkill for this experiment)which does not allow capacitor to sustain or increase in voltage but just the usual circuit current draw.

ButI was not too happy as the ou gain is in uA or <10mA.Someone did mentioned about this TS020 i think(not sure) a 1uA at 1v oscillator but i think it only do 50% duty cycle .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0u6gAUPlnTQ

Base on my rahter recent experiment

gyulasun · « **Reply #4244 on:** May 19, 2014, 09:29:43 PM »

Hi magpwr,

I think I understand your test circuit (I mean its schematic, I made a quick sketch for myself as per your description).
What I do not get is: why you say you have achieved OU in ANY sense? Would like to understand your thinking.

I think you would have to consider the input power your signal generator provides for your circuit. It is okay you use
very low duty cycle, it makes input power surely low but I believe it can be enough to maintain 3+Volts in the 4700uF
after disconnecting the 3.9V battery. And if you use the diode bridge instead of the single diode, the forward voltage
loss doubles (the charge current has to go through two diodes in the bridge) and the remaining lower current cannot
maintain the charge in the cap any more.
So this can also happen in this test circuit. You (we) do not know that in the single good diode's case how much excess
current would remain over the charge-maintaining current, which would be already enough to feed a tiny 2.5MHz pulse
oscillator with a few uA consumption from the 3+V cap voltage (provided of course that a low duty 2.5MHz oscillator
could be built with a 1-2uA current draw, this may be possible).
Would you tell the 2.5MHz input amplitude to the gate-source what the signal generator gives at its output? Just curious.

Thanks, Gyula

Cookie	Origin	Persistency	Information and Usage
ecl_auth	overunity.com	Expires after 30 days	This cookie contains the text "EU Cookie Law - LiPF cookies authorised". Without this cookie, the Forums' software is prevented from setting other cookies.
SMFCookie648	overunity.com	Expires according to user-chosen session duration	If you log-in as a member of this site, this cookie contains your user name, an encrypted hash of your password and the time you logged-in. It is used by the site software to ensure that features such as indicating new Forum and Private messages are indicated to you. This cookie is essential for the site software to work correctly.
PHPSESSID	overunity.com	Current session only	This cookie contains a unique Session Identification value. It is set for both members and non-members (guests) and it is essential for the site software to work correctly. This cookie is not persistent and should be automatically removed when you close the browser window.
pmx_upshr{NAME}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records your display preferences for the site's Portal page if a panel or individual block is collapsed or expanded
pmx_pgidx_blk{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the page number for the site's Portal page if the page for a individual block is changed.
pmx_cbtstat{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the expand/collapse state for a CBT Navigator block content.
pmx_poll{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the id for the current poll in a multiple Poll block.
pmx_{fadername}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the state for a Opac-Fader block.
pmx_LSBsub{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the current category and the state for a static Category block.
pmx_shout{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the current state of a Shout box block.
pmx_php_ckeck	overunity.com	Page load time	This cookie will probably never see you. It is set, if a Syntax check on a PHP block is initiated and will be deleted if the function executed.
pmx_YOfs	overunity.com	Page load time	This cookie will probably never see you. It is set on portal actions like click on a page number. The cookie is evaluated on load the desired page and then deleted. It is used to restore the vertical screen position as before the click.

1	We are aware that Google uses additional cookies it stores on your PC and when you browse our site and all other sites. These are used to target advertising and Google currently does this without seeking your permission. Four of these cookies we know about are named "rememberme", "NID", "PREF" and "PP_TOS_ACK" and are stored in Google's cache on your computer.
2	If you are accessing this site using someone else's computer, please ask the owner's permission before accepting cookies.
3	Your browser provides you with the ability to inspect all cookies stored on your PC. In addition your browser is responsible for removing "current session only" cookies and those that have expired; if your browser is not doing this, you should report the matter to your browser's authors.
4	We regret and apologies for any inconvenience this causes to members and guests who are accessing our web site from outside the European Union. It is not currently possible for us to interrogate your browser and obtain geographic location information in order to decide whether or not to prompt you to accept cookies.

News:

User Menu

Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11200658 times)

NickZ

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Hoppy

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

NickZ

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Hoppy

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

NickZ

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

starcruiser

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

NickZ

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

starcruiser

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

gyulasun

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

SeaMonkey

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

NickZ

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

MenofFather

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

gyulasun

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

magpwr

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

gyulasun

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY