Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11810447 times)

MenofFather · « **Reply #1290 on:** May 10, 2013, 04:59:05 PM »

Quote from: Void on May 08, 2013, 04:36:26 AM

The question I would have is, is that aluminum sheeting connected to anything such as another coil, or is it just placed in there with no connection? Without having more specific details I think the best you could do there is experiment with a few different ways to connect the aluminum sheeting in, and compare to leaving it unconnected. I will see if I can find some time to do some experiments with this sort of setup over the next month or so. I am also interested in trying this out.

Maybe it conected to drosel (like in hendershot), or maybe to nothing.

NickZ · « **Reply #1291 on:** May 10, 2013, 05:11:09 PM »

Ok, MenofFather:
Thanks for the warning. I am not trying to replicate that device, in any case.

I hope that the Akula diagram was made by Akula and that everything is ok with that particular device.

I'm very tired of the hide and seek game.
I tend to trust the earlier projects, like the TK 2004 video and device, as well as the SR 193 device.

What we need is for one of us to make a true working replication, with an exact diagram, and share that.
Not as easy, as it sounds, as the money aspect always gets in the way.

The choke will receive energy from the big air coil with or without the aluminum sheet liner. But, it may work better with it. This, I'm still working on. But, I need the proper cap(s), 3 in total, or more if you include the pulse circuit. The yoke is using a 5uF one of 600 volts, that is my main objective to obtain next. But, that may vary with the individual circuit, or, it may not be that important to use only right at 5uF.

Last night I took the time to watch the UFO disclosure, but was pretty disappointed by what was said, as it's just the same old thing. So, what's changed? As if the government doesn't already know. The only thing they will now disclose is what they don't care about. But, NOT the free energy systems, which they have and use, in their underground bases, transport system, lighting systems, etz...
All that is really needed here, now, won't get disclosed. Like also direct food production, without agro involved.
Anyways I thought that it was all very boring, but hope that something does come from it all. At least from us.

Void · « **Reply #1292 on:** May 10, 2013, 05:44:26 PM »

Quote from: NickZ on May 09, 2013, 10:12:54 PM

MenofFather is guessing that the secondary coil is about 40 to 50 turns, of 6mm2 which I don't know what gauge that is, but it thick enough, and not mag wire.
I've made my big secondary coil 43 turns, and 4 inch diameter. The resonator coil is 12 turns, and feed-back coil is also12 turns, all three coils are made from the same (green stranded insulated house wire), and both the two smaller coils are wound on top of the big 43 turn secondary coil. My choke former is about 2 inch wide by 6 inches long wound with the same green wire, and has 12 turns loosely wound with a start Ac fan start cap attached to it (for now). I'll try to upload a pic or two tonight to give you all a better idea of what I got going. It also has an aluminum liner on the inside of the big air core.
I can light a 60 watt bulb on 9v, and less than 1amp, to about 60% brightness, as is, now with no tuning done on it yet. Pulsed from my Joule Ringer 3.0 circuit, using a 5 inch ferrite rod core, and a single TIP 3055 transistor, or similar one, with no other component on that pulse circuit. Just a single transistor, ferrite rod coil, which is then connected to the yoke.

That's working not too bad then as an inverter if you can light a 60W bulb to some degree. Do you mean a 60W incandescent bulb? Gadget Mall has a video showing a 60W incandescent bulb lighting with a modified Lasersaber JT v3 circuit. He says he is drawing close to 4 amps at about 13.5 volts though. How are you measuring your input power to your JT driver?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm8O1hMXpRs

I watched the first Akula video again and I think MenofFather is right. It does appear to be fairly heavy gauge wire used for the secondary winding, although I can't tell if the secondary continues on under the primary winding or if ends at the top of the primary winding. It kind of looks like it might possibly end where the top of the primary winding starts.
6mm^2 wire would be in between 10 to 9 gauge AWG wire in thickness. Here is a handy conversion chart between AWG and mm^2:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html

Void · « **Reply #1293 on:** May 10, 2013, 05:58:50 PM »

Quote from: MenofFather on May 10, 2013, 04:38:33 PM

http://www.realstrannik.ru/media/kunena/attachments/4743/img004.jpg
This image it seems drawed by Akula. His seems draw and send to some man to skype. This man share this image.
This video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZzVb7CqnaM is FAKE! One man try show how easyle made fake. Hi letter show other video, in that he say and show that in divice go very tin wares, that we can not see. Other men in this chanel say that it have schematic, but how it can have shematic if it fake? So not look to this video, it fake 100 precents!

Thanks for the information MenofFather. Ok on that video being a fake. Not only that, but the same guy who posted that video on his youtube channel at that link, posted an email address where he is asking for money for schematics for this device!

This same person also has a Dynatron video posted and he included a comment asking for 'donations' for Dynatron's research project or something like that as well, I believe, but I think the money may go into this other guy's pay account from what I can tell. If someone is in contact with Dynatron, they may want to inform him about this apparent scammer. Here is the link to the Dynatron video this guy has posted with his comment on where to send money to help with Dynatron's project. I would guess there is a good chance the money is not going to Dynatron considering that the other video he posted is supposed to be a fake.:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Doo4jhIr1vs

Void · « **Reply #1294 on:** May 10, 2013, 06:05:13 PM »

Quote from: MenofFather on May 10, 2013, 04:59:05 PM

Maybe it conected to drosel (like in hendershot), or maybe to nothing.

Yes, it is hard to say exactly how it may be connected in. We also don't know any details about the drossel. Very hard to try to replicate if we don't know what exactly we are aiming for. Rather than trying to replicate this device, I will likely just experiment some more with the general approach that seems to be used in this device and see if I find anything interesting.

Void · « **Reply #1295 on:** May 10, 2013, 06:05:52 PM »

Quote from: verpies on May 09, 2013, 11:58:37 PM

Yes, remember this SR replication being discussed in the past in the big Kapanadze thread.
It has two spark gaps, a slotted brass tube and works without a ground wire.

Thanks.

verpies · « **Reply #1296 on:** May 10, 2013, 06:56:39 PM »

Quote from: anandml on May 10, 2013, 02:02:05 PM

In selfrunning Tk's thread many of them told in this device will not work its totally fake. What's your opininon?

Indeterminate without isolation and scopeshots.

NickZ · « **Reply #1297 on:** May 10, 2013, 07:09:34 PM »

It is still interesting to note that Akula did use a flyback in his previous devices, then went on to show the last two devices, that don't need to use it. And the spark coming off of his newest video's ferrite rod, barely shows a spark, which is somewhat surprising (at least to me) that it does not shock, at at. My device shocks the living s**t out of me! So, that clues me in to that there is something else going on in the working devices. Or not?
If there is a Real McCoy out there, as Akula mentioned, would only get dirt thrown on it, as well as on the builder. Good thing that he doesn't care enough about that, to stop him from showing his work. Maybe it's that he needs us. But, I doubt it.
If I can't get it working right, I'll keep trying, to the last consequences. I expect it to be difficult, but not impossible.
Nothing is impossible.

MenofFather · « **Reply #1298 on:** May 10, 2013, 07:48:51 PM »

Quote from: NickZ

I can light a 60 watt bulb on 9v, and less than 1amp, to about 60% brightness, as is, now with no tuning done on it yet. Pulsed from my Joule Ringer 3.0 circuit, using a 5 inch ferrite rod core, and a single TIP 3055 transistor, or similar one, with no other component on that pulse circuit. Just a single transistor, ferrite rod coil, which is then connected to the yoke.

60/2=30 wats about. 9x1=9 wats. Maybe you get overunity? You can use UF5408 or UF5404 diodes and make from it bridge rectifer, then paste it one capasitor 400-1000 volts 4-1000 mikrofardas and parallel lamp 60 wats. And check voltage on lamp, capasitor and write here thats voltage. If 120 volts, then good result.

NickZ · « **Reply #1299 on:** May 10, 2013, 08:17:51 PM »

I actually was able to light the bulb nearly as bright when using a 12v, 500mA source, but since (due to my negligence) I shorted that charger out, I'm now using a 12v, 7aH battery, or a 12v, 1.400 watt wall adapter.
As the circuit (LS 3.0) is made to feed-back to the battery negative or positive terminal, or to the charger, the charger does get hot, and can burn out. Although the battery will take a HV charge, but somehow it still will discharge in time, as it doesn't seam to get the charging CURRENT needed to maintain it. As mentioned, I have not tuned anything yet. And will work on rectifying the HF to charge the battery, or, self run, in time.
First I'm into seeing some results from a small input, to obtaining a big output, therefrom. Even in a small way, for now.

NickZ · « **Reply #1300 on:** May 10, 2013, 08:33:19 PM »

On a separate note:
I just wanted to bring to the discussion table, a video made by Lyxnsteam, showing the lighting of 12 110v, 7.5watt, AC Led bulbs, using only 1.7 watts, from a solar system charging a 12v battery.
He is using the Lasersaber 3.0 Joule Ringer circuit, that I also use, but has doubled up on the 2n3055 transistors for a 150 watt output capabilities. No overunity, but, a very efficient conversion process, that will light ones house.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dK0JGUMZ7ZM&feature=youtu.be

T-1000 · « **Reply #1301 on:** May 10, 2013, 08:36:56 PM »

@NickZ
You can also read about coil shorting in Patrick Kelly (now retired from FE) book http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/VladimirUtkin.pdf
Please check on last chapters involving coil shorting over capacitor. That looks as very close explanation to what I was trying explain here with quarter wave paralel resonance + resonance in series... I am still looking for most appropiate explanation so everyone could read about it like from book in school.

Good luck with your quest on actual device!

NickZ · « **Reply #1302 on:** May 10, 2013, 08:51:58 PM »

@ T-1000:
Thanks, I'll check the link when I get some time today.
I really would also like to see an actual working device showing a self runner with no input source, that would operated as you are mentioning. As most of us are still converting low voltage to higher voltage and lower currents, but not using the proper approach, to see huge output from magnetic energy conversion, to cold electricity, non-shocking electrical outputs.

NickZ

Void · « **Reply #1303 on:** May 10, 2013, 09:07:32 PM »

Quote from: NickZ on May 10, 2013, 07:09:34 PM

It is still interesting to note that Akula did use a flyback in his previous devices, then went on to show the last two devices, that don't need to use it. And the spark coming off of his newest video's ferrite rod, barely shows a spark, which is somewhat surprising (at least to me) that it does not shock, at at. My device shocks the living s**t out of me! So, that clues me in to that there is something else going on in the working devices. Or not?
If there is a Real McCoy out there, as Akula mentioned, would only get dirt thrown on it, as well as on the builder. Good thing that he doesn't care enough about that, to stop him from showing his work. Maybe it's that he needs us. But, I doubt it.
If I can't get it working right, I'll keep trying, to the last consequences. I expect it to be difficult, but not impossible.
Nothing is impossible.

When you say non shocking, do you mean because he could hold the padlock in his hand close to the ferrite rod and draw sparks and not get a shock? If so, that is not unusual. How much you may feel shocks depends on the frequency and current capability. If you draw arcs right to your finger you may well feel shocks, but if you hold a piece of metal in your hand and draw sparks to the metal you may feel nothing at all if the frequency is above 10 kHz or so and the current capability is fairly low. If your joule ringer circuit is running below 10 kHz, any shocks you get from the circuit would more likely be uncomfortable, and if you touch a point that has high current capability you could get a nasty shock. So shocking depends on where you are touching, frequency, and current capability of the point you are touching, and of course how high the voltage is as well. The tiny arcs that Akula was drawing to the padlock seemed to be not of a very high voltage and not a very high current.

Void · « **Reply #1304 on:** May 10, 2013, 09:19:59 PM »

Quote from: NickZ on May 10, 2013, 08:17:51 PM

I actually was able to light the bulb nearly as bright when using a 12v, 500mA source, but since (due to my negligence) I shorted that charger out, I'm now using a 12v, 7aH battery, or a 12v, 1.400 watt wall adapter.
As the circuit (LS 3.0) is made to feed-back to the battery negative or positive terminal, or to the charger, the charger does get hot, and can burn out. Although the battery will take a HV charge, but somehow it still will discharge in time, as it doesn't seam to get the charging CURRENT needed to maintain it. As mentioned, I have not tuned anything yet. And will work on rectifying the HF to charge the battery, or, self run, in time.
First I'm into seeing some results from a small input, to obtaining a big output, therefrom. Even in a small way, for now.

If you are using a wall adaptor or battery charger, they can get hot if you try to draw more current from them than they are designed to supply, especially the wall adaptor since many have no current limiting. If you try to draw several amps from a wall adaptor that is only designed to provide milliamps, it will certainly get very hot and may well fail before too long. You would only know what current the charger or adaptor or battery is supplying to the joule ringer circuit by measuring it with a current meter.

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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11810447 times)

MenofFather

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NickZ

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T-1000

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