The TVS I'm referring to is rated at 1500 Watts

@ Not Hoppy
And that's a peak pulse power - not continuous power dissipation, which is probably around 5W.

Hi Guys,

I like that idea for free energy as somebody posted on my FB.  I just couldn't resist to not to share it with you   Quantum Energy Device Shame,there is no YouTube version of it-  The real challenge for Ruslan or Akula

Hello Matt.

That's an interesting upside down vertical lathe!   

Necessity IS the mother of invention.

Cheers Grum.

Hehe.   And look, it works too.   

Very nice dog.    Interesting idea to use chuck like that verticaly   No problem with leading the wire?

The goal here was to mimic a lathe without the serious price tag.  So I started with a fairly cheap Harbor Freight drill press, yanked the synchronous induction motor off and replaced it with a permanent magnet DC motor.  Then to control the speed I built a simple triac dimmer module and put a large filter capacitor aft of the bridge rectifier.  I then added a DPDT switch so I could run the motor either direction.  With this setup, I can walk the chuck speed down to 60 RPM and lay the wind pretty smooth by hand--still need a chair though to be steady.  You can't sneeze or cough while it's running.   

The expensive parts in all this were the 3-inch MT2 shanked lathe chuck and 4-inch MT3 shanked bull head.  Probably way overkill, but the whole package still comes in well under the price of a decent lathe.

I'm pretty happy with it.  It will turn Tesla secondaries and Dally coils no problem at all.  Could probably even wind grenade coils--it has plenty of torque for larger gauge wire.  I think the trick will be to have a hot glue gun heated-up sitting close at hand for when a wind is complete, so it can be stuck down before changing directions or segments.

Two items I'm still looking to solve is a wire length measurement and turns count.  I need to get this taken care of before I accidently build a self runner, otherwise I'd never be able to reproduce the exact same coil.  I'm quite certain you guys would want me to wind you a coil that is known to work.   

  So, how long before it's for sale? One might ask...
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyeUnLHf8do

  So, how long before it's for sale? One might ask...
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyeUnLHf8do

Sigh. Insert facepalm character here. Ten minutes of my life I'll never get back.

Fuelless free energy 2016 generator reaching overunity live

Er... not even. Charging a supercapacitor bank from a charged-up battery and then transferring a tiny bit of that charge to a smaller battery is not "fuelless", it's not "free energy", it's not a "generator" and it certainly isn't "reaching overunity". And "live"... well, if bringing up a battery's voltage by 2/100 of a volt during 8 minutes excites you... I have a video of some paint drying that will really turn you on. OK... he got the "2016" part right anyhow.

   TK:
    Sorry to hear about the 10 minutes that you'll never get back. What a loss...
    He didn't say how long it would run, either.  But, it did light a 60w load and the smaller bulb, so the tiny bit of charge may not be so tiny, and the spark sounded fairly strong. To be a "tiny" charge. Maybe it can only light the small bulb when it's also charging the battery.
    Time will tell if this one also flys off into the sunset.
    His title for the video would indicate that he is either full of it,  or he's not. But, lets not take a vote on it, just yet.
    Anyways, what's 10 min? 
    I thought that Hoppy would comment on his fine wiring job, at least.

    Good to see you''re still keeping in touch around here.

1) The primary windings are rewound with double-wire cable (e.g. speaker wire seen here or heavy Litz wire - better).  Up until now the primaries have been wound with a single wire cable.
2) 2 fast rectifier diodes (e.g. Shottky) are used. These diodes (D3 & D4) must be capable of handling the pulsed current occurring in the primaries and must be rated rated at least 2*Vcc.
3) 2 capacitors (C3 & C4) in the μF range (the more the better) rated at least at 2*Vcc, are used. They can be ceramic or electrolytic capacitors (or both types connected in parallel), but must have low-ESR.

C1 & C2 are just optional capacitors for bypassing (stiffening) the power supply, and should have a high capacitance, low ESR and voltage rating ≥ Vcc
The Zener diodes are not used at all.

Itsu, what kind of shottky diodes (D3,D4) are you using to your setup?

I found some speaker wire 2X2.5mm and i ordered it. I hope this time it will fit across the circumference of my yoke as when i tried to wound it before, i had used two separate 2,5mm cables with thick insulation and couldn't fit.

For C3,C4 i will use normal electrolytic caps. Can they handle the kickback?