I've really really miss this thread, as it has gone dormant.  I'm still working on my Solar Exciter Joule Lamp circuits, now lighting several 65 watt Cfl bulbs. I'll upload some pictures soon.
  But, I came across these Led bulbs today at Ebay, at only $1.42 each, 262 Leds in them, and I thought,  what a deal. They produce 650 lumens, so I think that these are the best bang for the buck, that I've seen yet.
  Check them out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/E14-E27-G4-13W-263-LED-Warm-White-Cold-White-110V-220V-12V-Light-Bulb-Lamp-/110915987877?_trksid=p4340.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555001%26algo%3DPW.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D7%26meid%3D2285308848695520876%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D1004%26rk%3D4%26sd%3D300722284830%26
 
  Edit.
  It seams to be a price error, as they are really about $10 each, so not a great deal as I had thought. Anyways...

  I think that having an led bulb that can replace the amount of light brightness or lumen that we are used to having, but that uses much less current is still worth going for.  It's just that most led lights really don't do the job. Unless like to mentioned you pay $30 for them.
I'm hoping that within another year or so led lighting will be much more affordable. So far though, the Cfls are much cheaper for the same amount of light they provide, and when gutted they can be dimmed, and also come in warm white, plus they spread the light out evenly with no shadows.

   The hang-up that I have lighting Cfls to full brightness, is that my transistors will not take even 12volts without overheating.
 If I increase the turns on the primary, the light output drops. I already have about 600 700 turns on the secondary. And instead of going more turns, I'm looking for a much smaller transformer, or inverter set up.  Ferrite is the answer in any case, as without it the coil has to be much much bigger. 
  Radio Shack here does not have the 2n3055, so I bought a couple of their smaller TIP 3055 which are actually MJE 3055T instead. I could not get them to give a wireless output on my Exciter circuits, although they will work when they are wired to the Cfl. But, I'll give them a try with my version of a smaller 3 inch ferrite rod wound similar to what LS is showing.
  The advantage of going with the incandescent bulbs is their quality of light, which to me is much nicer than what leds or Cfls give off. Yes, it costs more to produce good brightness with those bulbs, but if it's a free source of power coming from solar panels, doesn't matter, much. I'd rather had less light of better quality, than brighter obnoxious lights.  Warm whites are easier to put up with, in anycase, and bugs aren't as attacked to them,  like they are to bright florescent bulbs or leds.
 I've got lots of Cfls of all sizes up to 65 watts, so I'm trying to find a way to light them, wireless Exciters have been fun and different,  but I don't see them as better or more efficient over all.  yet.   I was hoping that many bulbs could be feed off of one big exciter, but there are also limitations with each additional bulb added to the circuit. I'm still hoping to find the way of getting more light with each added bulb, like the Doc had mentioned when using Leds, instead of less getting less light with each additional bulb, as is happening now.

  Lasersaber's  last 3.0 version is a winner,  cheap to build, only one component, one ferrite coil, no noise, and it can be made bigger, or down sized, also.  Hard to beat.
  Thanks, Lasersaber.

   And LynxSteam,  good to hear back from you again.  Really been missing your input and tests, lately.

Nick,

I am using the warm CFLs throughout my house now.  They cost 99 cents each and I can't tell the difference between them and an incandescent.  The light is a warm yellowish light.  I forgot that you are trying to light bulbs wirelessly.  You may do better with a Tesla Coil circuit.  I use the TIP 3055 for that with a capacitor, resistor in the circuit.  I can light 60 watts of florescents from about 3 feet off a well charged 12 volt.  Not sure why your transistors are heating up.  Maybe you could show us your circuit and we could help.

You realize incandescents are more like toasters.  Most of the power is heat when they are bright.  I understand that the power is free and you don't care.  You may want to try the warm white CFLs just out of curiosity.

Nick,

Here is a video of the Tesla coil (SEC exciter) powering multiple florescents.   I moved away from this and to the more practical lighting that can be achieved with the blocking oscillator direct connected to bulbs.  It does open the mind when you see power conveyed through thin air.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=598xpKIXMtk

Hi all,

I just beginer in this forum. I made this lamp also last week. I am using 1" x 9" pvc pipe. 0.2 mm x 600 turn on sec, 1.5 mm x 43 turn on primary, tip 3005 and running on 12 V batt. The 45 watt cfl get very bright at 1.65 amp. The output voltage extremly high ( almost 1500 v). The problem is the transistor getting very hot. 
Here is my short vid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9DggKjswh8

Very nice, showing lighting the low voltage LED and the much higher voltage NE-2 with the same output, and your fingers acting as part of the circuit. The ferrite helps by allowing you to make your coils physically smaller, but the basic idea is vrswr: voltage rise through standing wave resonance. Air core coils need to be larger to operate at the same frequencies but have the potential to give higher voltages and currents because there is no core to saturate.
These results are very impressive due to the low voltage input. Keep up the good work!

Hi Lynxsteam,

  what kind of LED bulbs are you using? I think I can get as many as 40 primary winds on my little toilet roll setup, right now I have 2 layers of 250 winds of 30 awg wire secondary and 16 primary turns of 14 awg wire. I can light a 14 watt modded CFL light now close to 70% brightness and using 458ma. After adding a switching diode across the base/emitter, the CFL is brighter and....so far...seems to have eliminated my kick start issues.

I tried placing a ferrite rod inside the roll, but the CFL gets dimmer, I was using the rod to help kick start the circuit. The 2N3055 transistor still gets pretty hot, even with the diode and heatsink.

Thanks!