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Author Topic: Joule Lamp  (Read 299805 times)

Offline NickZ

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #210 on: June 30, 2012, 07:27:31 PM »
  Just wanted to thank Lynx for providing the smaller version. As it's what most of us low budget guys can build or replicate.  Making the circuit small but powerful is great.

  I wound a used E-core yesterday and am trying that core out today. But I'll be getting some more wire soon to wind one of your designs.

  I'm also interested in making the Joule Lamp, but one that will hold a CFL bulb on top, like the one that Lidmotor has shown on his video. As I have a bunch of used CFLs to work with.

  I'm still playing with the Solar Exciter circuit, and getting some garden light solar cells to work with the Exciter set up. It has been tricky, but I'm getting there.

  Thanks again, I really appreciate your taking the time and effort to share your ideas with all of us.
                     NickZ

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #210 on: June 30, 2012, 07:27:31 PM »

Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #211 on: July 02, 2012, 06:54:55 PM »
   Another very instructive, step-by-step vid by Lynxsteam:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWq5uDdiQzE&feature=channel&list=UL

Thanks for sharing this information.  You do very good work.

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #212 on: July 03, 2012, 01:37:22 AM »
NickZ,

If you want to light gutted CFLs you can. 

I have tried lighting unmodded CFLs and it works OK, but the internal circuit rings and they draw too much current.  LEDs are dimmable and CFLs aren't.  They are built for 50-60 hz and 120 vac, not our high frequency spikey voltage.  The CFL has a circuit that starts the bulbs at 240 v and then drops the voltage back to line voltage.  With our spikey voltage this circuit doesn't work properly and it never drops back down.  It keeps trying, but instead forces the LJL to put out max power. 

Look at the drawings I did, everything is the same except you need to halve the primary.  Do that by using two primary wires and wind the secondary til its covered.  Then join the primaries so they are parallel.  In essence you have one fat primary with half the turns.  This will simulate the 240 startup until the bulbs are heated up, then flip the switch to dim and they should run very efficiently.

For instance on the medium build LJL, you will have about 770 secondary turns, and 37-38 turns primary.  That will give you the underlying 240 volts.  When you switch to the dim setting the underlying voltage will be about 140 which will run the CFLs bright on very little watts.

Once you get the idea you can do the same with that small "mini" LJL.  Gut the CFLs and reattach the wires to the base minus the circuit.  Mark them as "modded".

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #212 on: July 03, 2012, 01:37:22 AM »
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Offline NickZ

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #213 on: July 03, 2012, 05:34:11 AM »
  Lynx:
   Wow, thanks for all that info.  I really do appreciate your taking the time and effort to help out.
   The idea is to gut the CFLs, and avoid the higher startup voltages. I've already done that to several of them, but have some that are still whole, or ungutted. I've also been able light up a 15 watt round florescent bulb, ungutted. I can get several of the gutted CFLs to light on 12v, but not full on. So, I made a bigger tower yesterday, to see if I can improve the light output.  The new tower will brightly light a neon bulb, but I'm still having a hard time tuning it to light the CFLs.  Tubes bulbs seam easier to light than CFls.
 
   I spent the whole day yesterday working on winding the a new tower coil on a piece of 1.5 inch by 9 inch pvc pipe, winding the L3 coil (secondary) using the mag wire off of a refrigerator fan motor coil. Not an easy thing to do, all by hand. It took hours just to get the pretty red mag wire off of the refrigerator fan motor that I recycled as the coil wire to be wound on the pvc pipe. As I'm far from the nearest place to buy mag wire. It is mostly wound now, but I still need to finish the last inch or so, and I have enough wire to do it, but need to solder and add the last bit of wire on to the first part, still,  to finish the tower.  It took many many hours of work, and so far it does not work any better than my tiny coil I use on my previous Exciter circuit. I'll have to redo the whole Exciter circuit to match the new coil, that is what I've been doing today.
  I also wound a used E-core, but did not have any luck on that still, as something is still not right there, yet.

  Today I looked at your part 2 video, as well as the one with the bunny wabits. Wary Nice!
  Funny how the smaller 9 inch core you showed looks very much like what I just wound, except for the primary on the outside, which I can also be added on to it, later.
  Any ways, thanks again, for sharing... 
  I'll upload some pics and videos, once I have it all done and working. The idea is to make the Joule Lamp out of it, which will also be a Solar powered Exciter, as the Exciter circuits still have me captivated.
                                                       NickZ


Offline triffid

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #214 on: July 03, 2012, 11:31:21 PM »
test,just wanted a link to here and want to say hi to all the members in this thread.I just recently made a JT myself.Powering an LED but soon to build a bigger light.triffid

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #214 on: July 03, 2012, 11:31:21 PM »
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Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #215 on: July 04, 2012, 04:07:06 AM »
Welcome, Triffid.

Lynxsteam sent a copy of his latest build, featured in the most recent vids (see above) -- thanks, Lynxsteam! very glad to do testing.  First results (AIR core only, AS sent), lighting up SIX LED bulbs of the corn-cob variety, as before:

DIM setting on switch:
12V   .567A  6.8W    4110 Lux  493 Lum  73 Lm/W
11V   .484A  5.3W    2960 Lux  355 Lum  67 Lm/W
10V   .404A  4.0 W   1920 Lux  230 Lum  58 Lm/W  61.4 kHz  (I started taking freq's)

BRIGHT setting on switch (full secondary in use):
 12V   .896A  10.8W   7830 Lux  940 Lum  87 Lm/W  34.0 kHz
 11V   .750A  8.3W    6150 Lux  738 Lum  89 Lm/W  37.5 kHz
 10V   .622A  6.2 W   4540 Lux  545 Lum  88 Lm/W  41.2 kHz

Clearly the efficacy is better with the Bright setting -- and the bulbs are BRIGHT -- 940 Lumens at 12V and 10.8W.  This is pushing the bulbs a bit; spec'd at 1.5W each (9W total) for these particular bulbs.

Next, I'd like to add my ferrite rod(s) -- Lynx, how do I remove the bottom end cap -- is it a press fit or glued?  (It seems tight...)

Offline NickZ

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #216 on: July 04, 2012, 09:24:56 PM »
  Guys:
  I thought that you might like to see my version of the Joule Lamp.

  It is lighting a warm white 13 watt CFL bulb, wireless, and can also light Led bulbs, Neon bulbs, and florescent tubes. It can light several CFLs, even with their internal circuit intact. No need to tune anything, just press the on/off switch to turn it on.
  It will be a Solar Exciter circuit that will be connected on to tiny 12 volt solar panel, and 12v 4.5 ah battery. The lamp will also run off of my homemade batteries (carbon/aluminum cells). It is connected to a regular 9 volt battery in the video below.

  My camera battery is bad, and will only allow me to take a 30 second video, but that's better than no video at all, I suppose.
                       http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIuM3Jg89oc&feature=youtu.be

 

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #216 on: July 04, 2012, 09:24:56 PM »
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Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #217 on: July 05, 2012, 07:34:23 AM »
Well done, Nick!  A lamp that uses ordinary bulbs yet runs efficiently off of 12V DC.

  Thanks again to Lynxsteam for sending his latest smaller version for testing using the light box.  I discussed some results earlier; this morning I inserted ferrite rods (1,2,3) and recorded results.  I also made a short vid.  Then 4th of July activities happened (fun with family!), hence a delay.

   Long story short, this latest version operates very much like the previous ("cranberry" version) and with three ferrite rods inserted, the efficacy rises to 113 lumens/watt -- about the same as the 114 Lm/W observed with the cranberry (larger) version.   Tomorrow I'll post the vid.   More compact and still very efficient! 

Congratulations again, Lynxsteam, for a fine device!

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #218 on: July 05, 2012, 05:34:39 PM »
Nick, great work and it looks nice!  Show off some more with a video of what you can do with the exciter.

Update on the LJL:
Now that I have designed this latest compact LJL 5.0 that brightly lights LEDs or can run at half power, I am having problems with the start switch.  The flip switch doesn't work for power on and off.  The solution is a slide switch.  It simulates touching the positive wire to the battery.  The dimmer works with a flip switch or a slide switch.


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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #218 on: July 05, 2012, 05:34:39 PM »
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Offline jbignes5

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #219 on: July 05, 2012, 07:17:17 PM »
 Hello guys.


 I was invited here to ask about the mini version of this system. Can it be adopted to a matrix of led strings? I have gotten myself 2 full bags of 3.2 volt 24 ma 30000 mcd led's. I wanted to make a full lighting set for my scooter that includes everything like head lamp to turn signals. With my other projects going now this will fill the bill on the other side of my scooter.

 Since you guys have been working so hard on this end I was wondering what setup would allow me the most efficient driver for my lighting needs.

Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #220 on: July 05, 2012, 07:54:36 PM »
Just uploaded a vid:

http://youtu.be/8aABHWxWnSQ

Text:

Quote
Some testing of the latest build by Lynxsteam; air core then add three ferrite rods (20cm long X 9mm diam).  We see the current and lux from the light box drop, but find that the Lumens per watt increases with the insertion of the rods.  I get about 113 Lumens/watt max with this system so far.

How to build -- shown by Lyxnsteam here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWq5uDdiQzE&feature=channel&list=UL

Thanks for sharing this information, Lynxsteam!!  You do very good work.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #220 on: July 05, 2012, 07:54:36 PM »
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Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #221 on: July 05, 2012, 08:29:16 PM »
Here are data taken this morning using the latest 'blackberry' version, for comparison with the previous 'cranberry' version.

Blackberry
Air core:
11V   .738A  8.1W      728 Lum  90 Lm/W  38.1 kHz
12.8V   1.03A  13.2W  1130 Lum  86 Lm/W  33.3 kHz

3 Ferrite rods added:

 11V   .258A  2.8W      300 Lum  107 Lm/W  23.7 kHz
 12.8V   .299A  3.8W   432 Lum  114 Lm/W  17.9 kHz
__________________
Cranberry
Air core:
 11V   .772A  8.5W      718 Lum  84 Lm/W  38.6 kHz
 12.8V   .969A  12.4W  960 Lum  77 Lm/W  35.7 kHz
 
 3 Ferrite rods added:
 
 11V   .381A     4.2W     472 Lum  113 Lm/W  20.3 kHz
 12.8V   .495A  6.3W      700 Lum  111 Lm/W  17.7 kHz

Offline triffid

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #222 on: July 05, 2012, 10:40:40 PM »
Heres a neat trick!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXhZvyGtMrk




Also for cheap LEDs try www.ecrater.com.

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #223 on: July 06, 2012, 02:11:30 AM »
Joule Seeker,

Thank you for doing the testing.  While some of us are after new heights in lumens/watt, I am more interested in brightness using what I gather from the solar panel.  Considering I am using and converting energy that would heat a 2' x 3' rectangle of my shingles each day, I would rather get good brightness from my circuit.  I don't mean that to be a slight.  I am very excited that with this same circuit we can get some outstanding efficacy.  But I would have been disappointed if while attaining efficiency the light given off was paltry.

One last question.  How does the "Blackberry" performance compare to total lumens using grid power?  And lumens/watt using grid power?


Offline jbignes5

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #224 on: July 06, 2012, 01:47:10 PM »
 So do we have the mini version of your air coils circuit? I need something to start me off here. Like I said I will only have about 24 or so leds running in various loops. The main loop will be 20. 10 for low beam and an additional 10 for high beam. Plus 2 2 led strings for turning signals. And maybe another string of 2-4 for a stop light.

 

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