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Author Topic: Joule Lamp  (Read 293591 times)

Offline lasersaber

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #105 on: June 15, 2012, 07:15:39 PM »
Quote
Has anyone tried filling up one of those aircores with stacked power toroids?
The ones I have will fit nicely in 1" CPVC pipe. That pipe will be wrapped with
the secondary and some sort of 'adjustable' primary most likely.

I have tried that and it works great. That is how I made the coil in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkZKD7LHCzM
 
I have not given up on the air core coils yet. I have seen some very promising effects with them.
 

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #105 on: June 15, 2012, 07:15:39 PM »

Offline lasersaber

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #106 on: June 15, 2012, 07:16:26 PM »
Posted twice.

Offline PhiChaser

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #107 on: June 15, 2012, 07:28:21 PM »
     I think what this will all boil down to is using ferrite, as we had thought. But, PVC and insulated house wire is available anywhere, sometimes even for free, or nearly so.

   Phi:  Toroid cores are not all the same, and the cheap iron powder toroids that are commonly used as chokes, don't work very well. Maybe try to find a ferrite transformer, or some real ferrite toroid cores, or beads. But, the Lynx system will work even without the ferrite rod, or toroids, in anycase, but,  even the yellow iron powder toroid cores may help some.

   NickZ
 
 

This is what I will be using. They were about a quarter each on eBay (not including shipping):

SANLIN SL5 T22X14X8 - CORE MATERIAL TYPE: SL5 - EQUIV TO FERROXCUBE 3E4, TDK H5B AND SIEMANS EPCOS T65 (They are a nice blue color ;) )

PC

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #107 on: June 15, 2012, 07:28:21 PM »
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Offline PhiChaser

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #108 on: June 15, 2012, 07:31:10 PM »
      I think what this will all boil down to is using ferrite, as we had thought. But, PVC and insulated house wire is available anywhere, sometimes even for free, or nearly so.

   Phi:  Toroid cores are not all the same, and the cheap iron powder toroids that are commonly used as chokes, don't work very well. Maybe try to find a ferrite transformer, or some real ferrite toroid cores, or beads. But, the Lynx system will work even without the ferrite rod, or toroids, in anycase, but,  even the yellow iron powder toroid cores may help some.

   NickZ
Nick: This is what I will be using: SANLIN SL5 T22X14X8 - CORE MATERIAL TYPE: SL5 - EQUIV TO FERROXCUBE 3E4, TDK H5B AND SIEMANS EPCOS T65
They cost about a quarter each on eBay and are a nice blue color ;) .
PC

EDIT: Damn forum, sorry for the double post... Thought the last one didn't go through.  ???

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #109 on: June 15, 2012, 09:13:08 PM »
My goal in using the JR 2.0 circuit design with the Aircore coil was to design something anyone could make easily from a kit or scraps.  getting performance up to the E-Core level is daunting.  At some point it seems if we want E-Core like performance that is the way to go.  But if there is still a way to get performance with an Aircore and no added components, that would be great.

I wound a test Aircore coil today on the 3/4" PVC - 9" long length.  It is comprised of a full layer of 24 awg enameled floral wire (soft iron).  A layer of clear plastic tape, then a full 200 turn layer of 20 awg copper magnet wire, then a layer of clear plastic tape, and another 200 turn layer of 20 awg copper magnet wire, then a layer of 14 awg insulated electrical wire 70 turns.

I can configure this in a bunch of ways.  Three secondaries in series or parallel, Tesla parallel, and/or leave the iron wire out of the secondary circuit.  I have read in Laser Saber and Lidmotor postings they observe some really "interesting" effects with the iron floral wire.  I don't know what to expect, or if these "interesting" things are good or bad.

A coil of iron wire seems like a strange way to increase Induction in the secondary.  Not only will each iron loop reorient magnetically but it will also have a current induced along its length.  Iron is fairly resistive compared to copper so I am not sure how well this would work in the circuit.  If it is left out of the circuit the AC will just oscillate.

My hypothesis is that induction in the secondary will increase over a purely Aircore type and the coil will still self tune to resonance at varying loads.  I'll let you know what happens.


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #109 on: June 15, 2012, 09:13:08 PM »
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Offline b_rads

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #110 on: June 15, 2012, 10:48:59 PM »
@Lynxsteam:
Due to the fact that I am one of those guys who has to try something to prove it does not work, I am planning a quick build of the LJL this weekend, I will wind on a piece of black iron pipe.  Will let you know next week how stupid I feel when this does not work. :-[
 
To really find yourself - you have to play hide n seek alone.
 
Brad S

Offline NickZ

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #111 on: June 15, 2012, 11:32:13 PM »
  Lynx:
   Great explanation, and goals.
   In order for the aircore to be more effective than E-core, at induction,  it may have to be of a certain size. The bigger the better, to a degree.
   I'm trying to incorporate the Exciter type circuit, here,  onto this idea, somehow.  As I feel they are related, like brother and sister. 

  As the Exciter circuit can also work like a transmitter/receiver , with Leds receiving the signal, or CFLs, or the Florescent type bulbs. Even the incandescent bulbs will work. And that same wireless signal can also be partially spread throughout the house, by using some repeaters, or even just on a short one wire transfer.
  Any ways,  that's the plan, Sam.    I'm, just a bit behind you all,  but I'm getting there.
As I'm on "Jungle Time", and the salt water fishing has been good...
  It's always interesting,  even just watching to see what others are doing, as that can save me some time, and effort.
    Picture of the beach in front of my lot...

  NickZ


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #111 on: June 15, 2012, 11:32:13 PM »
Sponsored links:




Offline NerzhDishual

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #112 on: June 16, 2012, 05:01:41 AM »

Hi witty, clever, patient and conscientious experimenters,

Sorry for disturbing.

In spite of a botched secondary? (=the one with a lot a turns) coil, I'm able to run this amazing
Lynx Joule Lamp while drawing not too much amps (less than 1/2 amp). It is just a first attempt.
I only use 6W fluorescent bulbs.
I do not notice too much amp consumption increasing when adding a bulb.

Anyway, thanks again to 'Lynx'.  I'm now able to amaze my friend with this magical device. :P
------------------
Previous (Lux meter) measurement with a mere Joule Thief shown that this CCT was more than twice
Efficient than the 'brute force'.
---------------
Using only one transistor is very very smart and (too elegant?), indeed.
Perhaps, one 'well placed' potentiometer could be of any help (current consumption-wise?)
-----------------
Now, according to some datasheets, this very 2N3055 transistor has an hFE between 20 and 70.

Fortunately? (for once?) one of my 2N3055 has, according to my small 'intelligent?' Transistor tester,
an hFE of more than 250!
http://www.selectronic.fr/testeur-de-transistors-autonome.html
I used this transistor...

Does this huge unusual hFE could explain anything?
----------------------
BTW: If you want to recharge big batteries with small and cheap solar panels, what about using these solar panels
to just recharge one small battery and to use this small battery as an input to a Bedini SSG?
This Bedini's SSG will be able to recharge your big batteries. Please be patient.

Just my 2 cents.

Very Brest,
Jean

PS: Plijout a ra din c'hoari a-wechoù








Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #113 on: June 16, 2012, 05:04:17 AM »
@ Team

Undaunted, I press on.  I am encouraged to keep trying by your efforts and ideas.  I hope I am an encouragement for your efforts as well.

I tried the iron wire secondary underlying the copper secondary.  Amazingly enough, and trying every configuration of series, parallel, iron wire out of circuit in circuit, the best result was exactly the same as the LJL Aircore power draw and less brightness.  I look forward to LaserSaber/  Lidmotor and others letting us in on the interesting effects they see.  Obviously I missed the right way to utilize the iron wire.

I tried the thin steel mop handle tube as a core.  Bad idea!  Low brightness and transistor got really hot.  Low frequency, high amp draw, low voltage.  There is a reason manufacturers make ferrite composites.

I have made a lot of these Aircores now, and I have one in particular that stands out as a good performer.  It has two layers of secondary with no tape between.  1360 total turns Secondary 30 awg.  The primary is a small gauge bell wire with 130 turns for a 10.46:1 ratio.  This is on the 3/4" PVC and the wound length is 8.5"  I don't know why, but this one shines.  A single 7.5 watt LED bulb lights the interior of my garage.  It does draw .875 amps with one bulb at 12.3 volts = 10.75 watts, but if you want full bright this one does.
A 3 watt Philips LED draws .530 amps x 12.3 volts = 6.5 watts.  But this bulb always is an amp hog.
Its not efficient but it is bright.

I'll pin down the specs on this aircore more tomorrow.  Hz, amp draw for multiple bulbs etc...  Maybe I can rewind it to get closer to 10:1 ratio and see how that goes.  Could also be that the length/diameter ratio is important as well.  I'll nail all this down and publish so you can replicate.  This one is the closest to E-Core performance.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #113 on: June 16, 2012, 05:04:17 AM »
3D Solar Panels

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #114 on: June 16, 2012, 06:12:19 AM »
Update: I couldn't go to bed without looking at this aircore some more. 

Brightness is really good on this one.  I tried a few other primary spots and brightness doesn't apparently change.  I know that is dangerous to go by eye.

With one Utilitech 7.5 watt bulb I can drop amps to .75 at 140 turns, .398 amps at 180 turns for a 7.5:1 ratio.  Now we are talking!

The only thing I can see that is substantially different from other aircores is that the diameter is small.  Maybe this concentrates the magnetic field more strongly.  I wonder if an even smaller diameter and longer length would be even better.  Perhaps making the aircore on a pliable tube and bending it into a circle.  Instead of the field lines having to go out the ends and circle back around the exterior, the field would just go back and forth within the coil.

So rather than go big in all dimensions perhaps going long is better.

Offline NickZ

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #115 on: June 16, 2012, 06:52:02 AM »
 The air core can be wound and then formed into a circle, by forming or winding it onto a clear 3/4 inch hose with a wood plug at the ends where they join together.  You'd have an air-core toroid, and depending on the size, it also becomes an antenna, just like the small UHF circular antennas. I think that those are about 8 inches wide. But, It would look more like a TPU coil.

  I could see the Joule Lamp as being like a small Tesla Coil, with a thicker pancake coil at the bottom, which could be made with a 1/8" copper or shiny brass pipe that can be shaped tighter, or more open, even out at an angle, to help tune the circuit.  It would look cool too,  retro, yes. The Exciter Joule Lamp...

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #115 on: June 16, 2012, 06:52:02 AM »
3D Solar Panels

Offline PhiChaser

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #116 on: June 16, 2012, 08:07:33 AM »
I have tried that and it works great. That is how I made the coil in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkZKD7LHCzM
 
I have not given up on the air core coils yet. I have seen some very promising effects with them.
Thank you for all the great videos LS! I will endeavor to play 'catch up' with you guys and post results when I have some results to post. You guys are truly inspirational. Keep up the great reasearch!!
Happy experimenting,
PC

Offline Lynxsteam

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #117 on: June 16, 2012, 03:43:59 PM »
@Nick Z

That's a beautiful view of the beach.  I live on a lake but yours is bigger!

The Torroidal AirCore you describe is exactly what I was thinking except I may make the diameter of the tube a bit smaller (1/2").  I have done some research on Torroidal AirCores - the magnetic field is completely enclosed by the coil which is ideal.

I tried the Tesla like coil with pancake near the bottom.  That's great for really high voltage and low amps.  To light multiple LEDs at around 90-120 volts takes amps.  That's why I started modifying to what you see now.  I can get up to 40 watts.  The fertile ground is an Aircore with 7.5:1 turns, completely wound secondary and primary.  I have even double wound both secondary and primary with good results.  I also suspect a tightly concentrated field within the secondary is key.  To achieve that requires a small diameter coil, and long length.  Capacitance using heavy insulated primary helps and needs to be balanced to the overall resistance to make the circuit function at high performance levels.

Getting closer.

Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #118 on: June 16, 2012, 03:56:06 PM »
Update: I couldn't go to bed without looking at this aircore some more. 

Brightness is really good on this one.  I tried a few other primary spots and brightness doesn't apparently change.  I know that is dangerous to go by eye.

With one Utilitech 7.5 watt bulb I can drop amps to .75 at 140 turns, .398 amps at 180 turns for a 7.5:1 ratio.  Now we are talking!

The only thing I can see that is substantially different from other aircores is that the diameter is small.  Maybe this concentrates the magnetic field more strongly.  I wonder if an even smaller diameter and longer length would be even better.  Perhaps making the aircore on a pliable tube and bending it into a circle.  Instead of the field lines having to go out the ends and circle back around the exterior, the field would just go back and forth within the coil.

So rather than go big in all dimensions perhaps going long is better.

GREAT ideas flowing here, also Nick and others! 

Now let me emphasize again how EASY it is to make QUANTITATIVE MEASUREMENTS so that we don't have to "go by the eyes" only.  Lynx noted correctly:

Quote
I tried a few other primary spots and brightness doesn't apparently change.  I know that is dangerous to go by eye.

Right.  So again a photo inside my "simple" light box... and it is fast and easy to build!  I realize we may be criticized for the low-cost measuring tool -- but I will defend this as a way to get REASONABLE numbers with which we can DETERMINE WHEN WE ARE MAKING IMPROVEMENTS. 

Look, its simply a box lined with aluminum foil, and a light (lux) meter at one end.  Simple.
And the lux meter was less than $14 bucks! 

Maybe your calibration is "rough", using bulbs with known LUMENS on the package and known wattage.  That's OK -- we don't have the budget of CERN!  But just having "RELATIVE NUMBERS" when you change something is a BIG help.

For example, running the "cranberry" air-core built by Lynx shown in the photo below, I find 4650 Lux with three bulbs when running at 12V @ 1.20 A (14.4W).  Then, when I insert a 9-mm diameter ferrite rod into the air-core, I get 3720 Lux running at 12V @ 0.74A (8.9W).

Did the Lumens/Watt Increase?  To answer that, I would need to do a calibration using bulbs with known LUMENS on the package and known wattage.  And I've done that. 

BUT== even without a calibration for lumens, I can tell whether my little ferrite rod did an IMPROVEMENT by answering -- did Lux/Watt increase?  The answer is yes:

air-core alone:  4650 Lux/14.4W = 320 Lux/W for my light-box.added Ferrite rod:  3720 Lux/8.9 W = 420 Lux/W -- a big improvement in efficacy!

You see?  just having the light box in the SAME condition while I make changes OUTSIDE (in the air-core or circuit, etc) -- I can tell when I'm making solid improvements in the light output, per watt.   I can even put a number on the improvement -- 420/320 is about a 30% improvement.  I think that's significant, and it gives me ideas of further things to try now that I have a way to measure when I'm making improvements in light output/Watt.

Don't worry about the criticisms that this is a crude instrument, compared to CERN!   We can make refinements in the measurement later; right now we need NUMBERS from measurements, something better than the EYE alone.

PS -- which will work better (in more light output per watt), the air-core TOROID or the Tesla-coil (resonance-coupling) approach?  I'd like to know!  Happy experimenting!

Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Joule Lamp
« Reply #119 on: June 16, 2012, 04:11:12 PM »
oops -- accidental double post argh...

 

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