Try this guy's videos on youtube.  He says he has adjustments to get the flame size you need.
Mark

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36lEXocd1BM

or more from smartscarecrow.  These guys put out some power!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=2p_T-AoBqCo&feature=plcp

I would use the nozzle that gets you the biggest flame possible, then put some kind of valve on the supply tube, to cut back the flow rate.  That will reduce your flame size.  Think of it like an oxygen/ acetelene (sp) torch.  These have a round knob at the base to control the flow of one of or both of the gases, I forget which, to control the flame.

If you are using pure stochoimetric HHO, the flame speed is supersonic
and you will end up blowing yourself and possibly neighbours from
here to eternity.

Pure HHO is VERY DANGEROUS INDEED.

You could mix in another gas, maybe air, but if this mixing process should
fail, then you are back on a death trip.

How are you generating the HHO? There may be (probably will be)a better
way to get to where you want to be.

Just like everyone else with an electrolysis unit.
Although, after 20 years of working in the military Im usually a little more safety conscious than the average joe bob six pack out there.
So my heater designs involve flame sensors, thermostats, auto igniters, gas flow solenoid valves, just to name a few things.

So yes hho is explosive, so is natural gas, and propane.
And they have been used for years in home heating. So why not use hho if I can produce enough gas for under 400 watts, heck thats a massive drop on my electrical bill. Even if it used half of what my 20+ year old coleman electric home heater does, thats a plus.

A torch is a simple thing to build so thats my first item on my list, then a home/ workshop heater, and so on, maybe Ill work on a gas cook top too.

after seeing this video, I have all the info i need to build my own system.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8igW-cxnDw

Part of my job was R.E. while I was in the military. So if I can get a decent look at something, I can usually build it.

The biggest problem Ive seen in the designs of what been made available on you tube is the output temps are way to high for home use as a space heater. Imagine your toddler walking by a space heater that has a 1000 degree output temp. That's way to high for anything to be used safely in the home. So Im shooting a bit lower on the out put, but a larger air volume, and surface area in my heat exchangers to compensate.

Im using several flame arrestors, in the system, as well as many safety features, Im not planning on using a bbq lighter to start the thing.

And my cell design allows me to separate the gases. so if the HHO, is a problem, I can add the membranes and just use the hydrogen alone.

yes, I am well aware of that. 20 years working with metals, 5 years on this project, and 3 of that in R&D has led to more time and expense than its probably worth.
I first have to finish refining the design of my cell, then flow test it under varying conditions (recording all data). Then Ill start with an HHO torch for cutting steel, then move into studying the flame intensity temperatures at varying nozzle sizes, flow rates, and distances.

Then on to a home heater, water heater, and cook top.

Should my design have a high enough flow rate, I may look into doing some genset tests with my two 5K gensets I have.

The whole move toward a car and getting better mileage is tantilizing, but I have no cheap car to test it on. Im not going to risk damaging our two new cars on an experiment.

Thanks for your cause for concern. I have more than 20 years military, heavy construction,welding, foundry, and various other industrial trade experience.
I do not take hho lightly, but do know its potential if mastered properly.

But I mean to test out every application I can to this that might render fruit. There are too many Naysayers, as well as BS'ers out there to believe everything you see on youtube, so I mean to test out everything myself, and as scientifically as I know how.

My test bench includes:
70amp pwm with frequency and duration adjustments, and intellegent memory settings (with 50 amp inline fuse)
electrolyzer digital temp gauge
reservoir digital temp gauge
A flame arrest-or between each item on the system (including bubblers)
A source amp gauge
An electrolyzer digital volt/amp gauge
4 power supply test circuits (a car engine start run stand, 240watt comp supply, 480 watt comp supply, and a 600watt comp supply)
A low tech 20 oz (591ml) bottle flow speed tester
An oxygen LPM flow test gauge (vertical ball gauge)
A large display digital stop watch
One large 1 gallon bubbler with air stone diffuser
One smaller one quart bubbler
An ultrasonic emitter system (to test resonance)
And one final oxy/acetylene brass flame arrestor at the work end on the line.
The test bench is also being fitted with an acrylic splash shield, and ventilation system
When mixing chemicals i use splash proof goggles, a full chemical apron, face shield, and elbow length chemical gloves
During testing and leak testing I use K2CO3 (potassium carbonate) as its less caustic than KOH (potassium hydroxide)
When all leaks, and testing have been accomplished then, the system is clean, and flushed then replaced with KOH for actual use.
Potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and sodium hydroxide can release dangerous gasses so my preferred electrolyte is KOH.
However, the real goal is no catalyst in the water at all.


My reservoir has a low level indicator which Im playing with tying into a relay to kick on an auto refill system via a solenoid valve

Again thank you for the warnings, but I am not the avg Joe here, not knowing what I'm playing with. So again thank you for your concern, and trying to help. Id love to explain my cell more, but I didn't spend 3 years developing it, to just give it away. Im not in it for the money, I'm in this to get the best electrode pairing, plate gap, cell design, and applications worked out into something as useful as possible.
Three years of studying chemistry, metallurgy, electron valances, battery design, corrosion properties, and a semester at ITT tech, as well as my current in process engineering degree, have led to very amazing discoveries thus far.

Im using a 1996 chevy cavalier coolant overflow tank as my reservoir. Although small, it is perfectly suited for this application. its internal baffling, and gas separator design works very well. The small capacity allow the cell to get up to operating temp sooner which helps for testing. As mentioned before it has a switch in it that I may or may not use as a electrolyte level indicator. For now until I know how it works Ill leave it unpowered.

Thanks,
I am not pursuing the HHO heater plans with the copper pipes. Namely because my wife watches kids, and some of these heaters can put out over 1000 degrees within inches of the output. So my first test of design will be using round CPU heat sinks. The centers punch out, and can be mounted on a copper pipe. cool air is then blown over them, through a loose fitting duct to transfer heat.

The next design, once I can get nozzle to flame temp distances measured out is using a liquid cooling system for a PC. This will not only pump the coolant, but blow it out through essentially a large heat exchanger like a radiator.

By marrying tip size, hho flow rate, and distance from the flame I can easily dial in what temp exposure the cpu cooler gets exposed to.
That combined with a ceramic cup to spread the heat load, I can get this system to operate how I want it too.

Then Ill tie that into a digital thermostat, and auto ignition system. Combined it will make the system completely stand alone like a home furnace. While maintaining such safety features as auto relight, gas solenoid valves, and internal temp sensors. It sounds involved, but Id rather have utterly redundant safety systems, and be overly cautious then have a bbq lighter button to light it.

That way the unit can run, even at night while we sleep. without worry of the flame going out, and filling the house with hydrogen gas.

Good idea, Im wondering if the CPU cooler could use oil, if it doesn't already. Depending on the oil, the only thing possibly needed might just be different hoses which I may have to modify anyway.
Using the CPU cooler allows I believe an equalization to be had. A loss of extremely high heat in a small volume, for a lower heat over a larger volume.