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Author Topic: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells  (Read 554262 times)

Offline NickZ

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #135 on: November 28, 2011, 02:39:02 AM »
    Guys:
   There are only two items Aluminum, and Carbon, in my cells, just those two items will give me about 3/4 volt, but if I add the carbon rod, I get higher voltages, over one volt.  This is the point that I'm trying to make, there is No Electrolyte, as none is needed. It surprises me too. 
The carbons conductivity is important, as there are a thousand types of carbon, and they are all different. The carbon rods and aluminum cathode by themselves will not generate any power at all, (0 volts, 0mA). It needs the wood carbon, as the electrolyte, if you want to call it that. A cell will still work without the carbon rod as the anodes, but it does need the wood carbon and the aluminum or Mg as the cathode. Like I said before... try it you'll like it.  Carbon is where its at... quartz helps, but is not essential.
My original capacitor cells now several months old are still generating 1.234 volts.  Time will tell, and it has...  I'll make a video one of these days, but, I'm still tinkering on it. 
  Dry cells are not as easy to get higher outputs from, but I'm getting there.  I may have to just make more of them, that's all.
 
                                          NickZ

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #135 on: November 28, 2011, 02:39:02 AM »

Offline jbignes5

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #136 on: November 28, 2011, 02:33:35 PM »


 Umm doesn't wood have crystalline material from the sap??? There is an electrolyte you just don't know it lol. Using water before you make the layers is very important. The squeeze or pressure will help dry it out and it should become more solid after it dries. I wouldn't use the battery till it is all the way dry because of electrolysis or galvanic reaction. This is why you should oxidize the aluminum first because it can help with the galvanic response and protect the aluminum while it dries.

 Oh on a sidenote the first battery I made is back again, letting it rest fixed it.

 Here is an interesting find. I have 4 in series which runs a 5.5 volts led light head. Usually the voltage drop is around 2.5-2.7 volts across the led. When i disconnected the negative for the batteries my hands touched the wires and it lit up a bit. The volt meter started going up from 1.5 volts to just under full capability of 2.5 volts. This connection made through my hands and arms was very unexpected. No sensation at all from that connection.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2011, 04:16:09 PM by jbignes5 »

Offline NickZ

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #137 on: November 28, 2011, 04:40:20 PM »
   Guys:
    I've heard of other people trying the charcoal briquettes along with a piece of magnesium, and have gotten 1.3 volts.  And some others have tried the aquarium charcoal.  The important thing with the carbon is that is needs to conduct well, or it won't work. To conduct it needs to be pressed together, and not loose powder.
 Normally one would combine the carbon powder with linseed oil and mineral spirits (to thin the oil) and make the carbon rod, or carbon plate, etz..  I just wanted to try it totally dry pressed inside of a capacitor can,  and it does work. But, the carbon powder needs to be pressed down hard to compress it as much as possible.
  There is no sap or resin left in a piece of carbon, as all the wood has been carbonized, along with anything else that was in it, so this is dry stuff, but different from the carbon rods that I've used, or the pencil leads. One can dope the pulverized carbon with graphite powder, quartz, aquamarine, or whatever work to raise the output.  The semiconductor treatment on the aluminum capacitor can wouldn't hurt,either. It is best to use magnesium cathodes if possible, or just add an extra cell to the line up, to get the same voltage

I just made two very small dry carbon capacitor cells, and am getting 0.93 volts from each, and 1.91 volts from both of these cells in series, and 9 mA from each cell.  Which for their size (1/4 " by  3/4" is not bad. 
I've made those two cells small as I'm still trying out different things. I had put white glue on top to seal them, and this morning after resting all night both cells has a blow hole in the glue, just like the hot dog cell has done. This can be from the wet watery glue touching  both the anode as well as the cathode, I believe.  In the future I'll use the clear 5 minute E-poxy to seal them, as it does not conduct.
 This is the proof that I was looking for, that even these dry cells can produce hydrogen gas (and water). Once the water in the glue drys out completely, there should be no more gas venting, or will there be?  I'll soon find out... as this gas venting from the electrolysis action may be the root of both our oxidation, and lowering output problems, over time.
 

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #137 on: November 28, 2011, 04:40:20 PM »
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Offline NickZ

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #138 on: November 28, 2011, 04:54:36 PM »
    Jbigness5:
   Finally someone sees the same thing as I've been seeing...  that the led will light on a one wire connection.
I'm very much into working to exploit that effect, to the max.
 Dr. Stiffler's thread deals with what I believe to be the same or similar thing. "Voltage out of thin air"
Like with his PSEC devices or coils set ups.   But, to make 100 leds or more to light at full brightness, takes a bit more work, though.  But I'm very exited about it, and that is what occupies my mind much of the time.
                                                                                        NickZ
   

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Offline jbignes5

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #139 on: November 28, 2011, 05:03:59 PM »



 I got pure carbon from an art store. I have tried reading the resistance and it is very conductive. I am suspecting that it should do very well in the can. I'm gonna protect the aluminum or magnesium with pre-oxidation. So that removes galvanic. Not having water in the final unit will be the results. I am gonna use it to layer the different materials then bake the unit to release the water and help setup the internal structure. It will of course have a special end cap to facilitate this procedure and be seal-able once the water is removed fully or as best as we can get it. I am thinking these batteries will need a special protective diode to keep a reverse voltage from reversing and causing any water left in the unit from doing electrolysis as well. Once we guard against these problems I'm sure there are others to be solved.

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #139 on: November 28, 2011, 05:03:59 PM »
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Offline NickZ

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #140 on: November 28, 2011, 05:30:07 PM »
  The carbon from the art store sounds good, and should work well.  I would also try one cell as a test without the semiconductor treatment to see how it compares to one with the treatment. Use some e-poxy on top of the rubber plug to further help to seal it up, making sure the area around the outside of the electrodes is also well sealed. The rubber plug on top of the capacitor can by itself is not enough to make a proper hermetic seal.
 
   Try putting a single ground wire to an outside stake in the ground,  it will substitute you having to hold the end of the 4 cells leds for them to light.  Play with that,  as that is where the magic is at...  and will show you that the cells are also working in a non-galvanic way,  as I've been saying all along. 

Offline NickZ

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #141 on: November 28, 2011, 05:50:36 PM »
  Forgot to place a picture of my tiny new cell, each dry cell has about a volt, and 9 or 10mA.
Can you picture a bunch of them mounted on a pc board, feeding an oscillator circuit?
                                                                                                                                   NZ


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #141 on: November 28, 2011, 05:50:36 PM »
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Offline hartiberlin

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #142 on: November 28, 2011, 07:54:29 PM »
Hi NickZ,

the best cheaply available conductive carbon is still
lampblack or graphite powder which is sold for painters..
So you get it in a painter materials shop.
Or you can do the lampblack yourself by using many candles
and let the flames blacken on a stainless steel plate above
or something simular.

Also you can heat up and red glow coal briketts
and before they are totally burned up and already have some white ash on the outside,
the inner black powder is converted to real graphite.
So if you let them cool down then and remove the outer ash, inside you have very
good conductive graphite.


But in these batteries the alufoil or alucase will be consumed sooner or
later, but the lampblack or graphite will not be consumed.

The moisture of the air already is enough to get the galvanic acting
starting..
If you add K2CO3 soluted in tap water as the electrolyte you get around 1.5 Volts
from these cells and you only consume the Aluminium.
Then they have real good power also..


Hope this helps.


Regards, Stefan.

Offline hartiberlin

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #143 on: November 28, 2011, 08:02:10 PM »
Something like this:

www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Lampblack-500-gm-Fisher-/320770612878

but in painters shops you get it more cheaply probably,
cause this one is pretty pure...

Regards, Stefan.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2011, 09:58:43 PM by hartiberlin »

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #143 on: November 28, 2011, 08:02:10 PM »
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Offline jbignes5

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #144 on: November 28, 2011, 10:40:58 PM »


 Yeah Go for it! Anything you get for free is still free right?

 I'm hoping to quell the aluminum corrosion with pre oxided aluminum. Or maybe oil additive like nick suggested?

Offline NickZ

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #145 on: November 29, 2011, 12:10:13 AM »
   @ Stephan and All:
    Thank you for your reply.  I have already done something similar to what you are mentioning concerning the briquettes.  I take the carbon from the beach wood fires, that conducts well, and use that. It has already been well burnt to coals on the outside and the inside has also been carbonized.  It works ok, but I'll still look for the graphite powder to combine with it, as well as any other item that might be added to help raise the output.
   If there is any air available to the cells, electrolysis action will still create water, and also oxidation of any metals used. But, just like a diode can produce an output without the galvanics action, or the hydrogen that gets converted to water in the cells, I am trying to achieve a similar effect with these cells.  I don't know if it is possible or not, but I'm aiming to find out.
   I think that the semiconductor treatment may be the answer to the aluminum or magnesium corrosion problem, at least I hope so.  The carbon pencil leads have already been proven to provide very good output when used as anodes, but without the use of the carbon (or salts as the electrolyte) they do not produce anything at all, as they will short out between both poles, killing the dipole effect. Not so with carbon as the electrolyte.
  Carbon/Carbon cells although will still work to a degree, will not produce enough output comparatively, to make them worth the effort. The best electro-negative combination is Carbon/Magnesium. So, we really should stick with that...  as the real cause of this voltage and current, is found in the difference of the voltage potentials of the two different materials. The implementation and use of the semiconductor idea with these cells, may also help improve those results dramatically. Not just with the control of the oxidation factor, but possibly providing for a much higher output as well. 
                                                                                                                     NickZ
   

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #145 on: November 29, 2011, 12:10:13 AM »
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Offline jbignes5

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #146 on: November 29, 2011, 04:14:37 AM »
   @ Stephan and All:
    Thank you for your reply.  I have already done something similar to what you are mentioning concerning the briquettes.  I take the carbon from the beach wood fires, that conducts well, and use that. It has already been well burnt to coals on the outside and the inside has also been carbonized.  It works ok, but I'll still look for the graphite powder to combine with it, as well as any other item that might be added to help raise the output.
   If there is any air available to the cells, electrolysis action will still create water, and also oxidation of any metals used. But, just like a diode can produce an output without the galvanics action, or the hydrogen that gets converted to water in the cells, I am trying to achieve a similar effect with these cells.  I don't know if it is possible or not, but I'm aiming to find out.
   I think that the semiconductor treatment may be the answer to the aluminum or magnesium corrosion problem, at least I hope so.  The carbon pencil leads have already been proven to provide very good output when used as anodes, but without the use of the carbon (or salts as the electrolyte) they do not produce anything at all, as they will short out between both poles, killing the dipole effect. Not so with carbon as the electrolyte.
  Carbon/Carbon cells although will still work to a degree, will not produce enough output comparatively, to make them worth the effort. The best electro-negative combination is Carbon/Magnesium. So, we really should stick with that...  as the real cause of this voltage and current, is found in the difference of the voltage potentials of the two different materials. The implementation and use of the semiconductor idea with these cells, may also help improve those results dramatically. Not just with the control of the oxidation factor, but possibly providing for a much higher output as well. 
                                                                                                                     NickZ
 
Now you are seeing it like I said. You might want to go the route of the anti water nano glass beads! They repel water pretty good. But I think the process is much higher in cost. Glass would form a layer like a layden jar and that might do the trick. Induction would be the only way to pass energy and that only takes a voltage potential like the metal difference you talk about. What have you done with the sand, do you mix it together in the carbon blending the two or layer it?

Offline jbignes5

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #147 on: November 29, 2011, 05:43:33 PM »
 I wanted to see the wave forms that these diodes are converting. To my surprise I found an ac voltage that exactly doubled the whole potential of these batteries across the terminals. Could someone confirm this?

Offline NickZ

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #148 on: November 29, 2011, 06:04:24 PM »
    I use only these items to make my cells: wood carbon and aluminum capacitor cans, and carbon rods or pencil leads as the anodes,  but no sand.
    I had used beach sand to make the original cement cell bank, only. Which are still working, and still outputting over a volt each cell. They have been a long running cell, but have lost 1/2 their mA levels, due to oxydation.
   I really want to stay away from the use of salts, but if we find that a much higher output can be obtained, and that the salt electrolyte can be sealed to allow no water to contaminate the cell, I may give that a try.  If I can locate the Epsom, salt sub, etz...  I'm still waiting to see the long term results that JB, Jim, B-rads and others are coming up with.
   

Offline jbignes5

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Re: Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells
« Reply #149 on: November 29, 2011, 06:20:54 PM »
    I use only these items to make my cells: wood carbon and aluminum capacitor cans, and carbon rods or pencil leads as the anodes,  but no sand.
    I had used beach sand to make the original cement cell bank, only. Which are still working, and still outputting over a volt each cell. They have been a long running cell, but have lost 1/2 their mA levels, due to oxydation.
   I really want to stay away from the use of salts, but if we find that a much higher output can be obtained, and that the salt electrolyte can be sealed to allow no water to contaminate the cell, I may give that a try.  If I can locate the Epsom, salt sub, etz...  I'm still waiting to see the long term results that JB, Jim, B-rads and others are coming up with.
 


 Try to stay away from salts with huge amounts of water in them like epsoms salts. I would stay with the piezoelectric crystals.

 

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