Author Topic: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect (Read 834737 times)

synchro1 · « **Reply #1350 on:** May 09, 2013, 11:13:02 PM »

I'm back from CR. I'm setting my Quadfilar Spiral bedini up on my sailboat right now. I have a 1 farad digital capacitor to try and run in self loop.

I also have a "Glow Light" trasformer that generates a 1khz a.c. signal from a 12 volt d.c. battery. I plan to run the neo sphere up to 60,000 r.p.m. on one side of the Q-spiral with the bedini, then switch over to the 1khz a.c. sine wave on the other, and compare input if the neo sphere continues to spin.

MileHigh · « **Reply #1351 on:** May 10, 2013, 12:19:27 AM »

Farmhand:

Your clip showed the effect quite nicely. The impedance of the motor goes up when you are driving the rotor, within certain limits. If I can ask you a favour for future clips, it would be to make sure the schematic is the latest revision (Did you move the diode?) and also show where the current sensing resistors are on the schematic. It really helps.

If you were a mad scientist like Russ you could put a pulse motor on a "suicide run." If you had a variable high voltage DC supply you could crank up the voltage on the drive coil and push the motor faster and faster. You should start to see diminishing returns on the number of RPMs per watts in. Higher and higher, what will fail first? Will the coil burn up? Will the bearings fail? Will something fly off the rotor at high speed? Will the transistor explode? If there is a charging battery, will it start to boil? Like some mad scientist you push your poor humble pulse motor past the breaking point! Muhahaha Now that would be fun.

Perhaps the Suicide Pulse Motor Building contest?

Thanks,

MileHigh

Farmhand · « **Reply #1352 on:** May 10, 2013, 07:27:09 AM »

For that clip I did just add the one diode before C2. After the clip I thought for interest I would try to run the setup up and see what kind of speed I could get by timing the pulse to the charging coil so that the main motor coil is passed and the pulse happens over he charging coil, I didn't have the scope attached but what happened was I over volted some diodes only rated to 40 volts. Originally I was going to use all 40 volt parts and use a charge battery then the voltage is below 40v with 12 volts input, but I went with IRF740 mosfets while I waited for IRF1010's. But now the drains are seeing up to 80 volts and switching 60v at times. Anyway I replaced all the diodes on the board with higher rated ones.

I applied full boost (35 volts) with the timing retarded trying to speed it up then screeech from the diode and the input went to 5 amps on the 5 amp meter.

I have a feeling these diodes were kinda failing for a while.

I'll update the circuit drawing to show the changes I made with the diodes. I'm going to remove the rest of the 1N5822 diodes before I kill more, I'll replace them with FR302 (100v), FR307(1000v) or 1N5408 (1000v).

If I apply 35 volts boosted input then the mosfets would be switching 60 volts plus through MC1 from C2. No wonder the 40 volt rated diodes failed.

I overlooked them. But all is well that ends well.

When it comes to load switching from a generator coil the fun will start. If there is a magnetization delay so that the rotor magnet is away from the core when the coil is affected by the flux then we would have a constant current generator wouldn't we. If loading the generator coil out of phase to the rotor magnet passing then the drag and output should be set at or about cogging drag shouldn't it maybe a bit more. But the output would be limited of course.

Cheers

P.S. Here's a tip, if C3 is too small in certain conditions the voltage in it can get too high, I've gone to three 6.8 uF caps in parallel and a 10 uH coil on a small toroid for the return arrangement.

..

Farmhand · « **Reply #1353 on:** May 10, 2013, 09:30:12 AM »

OK I used a sniffer coil just to see what kind of wave form the rotor makes on a generator coil. This is the result below. The motor dropped from 2400 rpm and held at 2340 rpm with 12.6 volts and 220 mA input when the coil was placed near the rotor, no problem. The coil measured only 69.5 mH (mock up core), so I can see that if I make a gen coil with a few hundred mH I should get a pretty good sine wave. The positive end of the coil was facing the rotor with the probe to the positive end and the scope ground to the negative end, the coupling was set to AC on the scope. SO we can see that the north pole of the magnets induce a negative voltage in the coil then the coil swings positive about the same amount before then drops to zero volts for a period before the next magnet approaches, I can see there seems to be two bumps on the top of the waveform, so I'm surmising that my rotor has two weak south poles close together and three north poles one strong and two weaker to each side of it. I can change the angle of the out-rigger magnets so that they make two slightly stronger south poles a bit further apart and one even stronger north pole I think (on each side of the rotor). I'll try that by pointing the north pole of the out magnets more at the center of the two main magnets, then the south poles will be facing slightly out toward the rotors periphery.

I think the motor will run even better then and the gen waveform will also be better I think.

Cheers

P.S. HopToad was correct. Of course all of the above confirms that the rotor can induce a current as he described in a previous post because there is south poles on the rotor.
But that can only happen with the motor coils if the emf produced that way is more than or out of phase with the emf generated by the collapsing magnetic field and I doubt very much that the rotors south poles can induce over 20 volts not to mention 25 volts so there is no room for induction from the magnets unless they can generate a higher emf then the collapsing magnetic field or it induces the emf at a different time. In my opinion it is the same a a generator coil that generated 30 volts peak to peak connected to a capacitor charged to 40 volts via a FWBR, there is no current induced.

That is one of the advantages to an orderly collapse of the magnetic field at a higher voltage, it stops the induction from the phantom south pole (in the motor coils), or at least that is the objective.. THe south pole can generate all it wants to in the generator coil.

2nd P.S I think the way my rotor spins down very slowly when the power is cut is an indicator that no significant induction of currents is happening from the rotor to the motor coils when there is a voltage present in all the capacitors.

..

Farmhand · « **Reply #1354 on:** May 10, 2013, 12:53:54 PM »

Quote from: hoptoad on May 08, 2013, 11:33:12 AM

(snip)
Also, the rotor magnet/s is/are counter inducing a current in one direction through the motor MC1, via D2 D5 L1 and D4. In the circuit you've shown on the previous page, you can pull Q1 out of the circuit, and spin the rotor up to speed by another means, and you will get current through MC1 via the path I just outlined.

I notice also in the same circuit that any collapsing emf from MC1, during off time (from the supply) discharges through the same path.

http://www.overunity.com/11350/confirming-the-delayed-lenz-effect/dlattach/attach/123297/image//

Cheers

Thanks Hoptoad,

Tonight's experiments will be dedicated to investigating these effects (I hope). I kept what you said in mind and it appears to be correct.

I think I understand better now the full implications of what you said. My apologies. I see taking D4 out increases rotor speed and input power for the pulse width, which is good for me. I must investigate further.

I've rearranged the circuit a bit for testing (as below) while keeping the component labels much the same except for additions ect. I changed all diodes to 1N5408 except the free wheeling diode D3 which needs to have less drop than the mosfet's internal diode, the flyback diode is also a fast recovery diode just for fun.

I intend to run the circuit as shown up to speed with a 2.8 mS pulse width and the pulse timed to energize the motor coil when the magnet is directly in line with the MC1 core as a benchmark and the pulse timing and the pulse width will remain constant throughout the tests.

Then I will systematically short the diodes (D4), (D5), (D6) and even (D2) one by one with a clip lead (directly across the diode, observe the wave forms and rpm for changes and record what happens then un-short them. After doing that one by one I'll test combinations (with two clip leads

), like shorting both D4 and D6. I'll also try connecting C3 in series with the battery and record the difference with that. A few hours experimenting there.

I want as much speed/torque as possible for a fixed pulse width. But I want to keep the drain voltage below 80 volts, that way I can use IRF540 mosfets, so I have NE2 neons for a visual indicator as well.

Anyone have any suggestions to modify the magnet layout as I showed in the other sketch ? This drawing doesn't show the actual magnet layout.

Cheers

Milehigh, the currents were measured across the C.S.R.'s - R1 and R2 in the last clip, the center of the two resistors is the cap C2, and the scope grounds are connected there.
Basically it measures the current out of C2 and into the motor coil MC1, and the current out of the the charging coil MC2 into the capacitor C2. I did explain that in the video, but I agree a drawing is best practice. If the inverted current waveform was un-inverted and the wave forms superimposed, then the area where the current wave forms overlap would be "shoot through current".

..

Farmhand · « **Reply #1355 on:** May 12, 2013, 06:05:14 AM »

OK so my tests had mixed results, taking out the diodes D4 and D6 is good in my set up with the charging circuit, it increases low speed start up torque by prolonging the currents through the coils, but for high speed running close to the pulse width maximum limit it limits the top speed of the motor because of overlapping currents I think.

The other diodes are all necessary, also with my setup because of the charging coil "MC2" then L1 is obsolete, MC2 does the job in my set up that L1 would need to do if there was no charging circuit/coil.

Anyway I went to a rotor with 8 all north out facing magnets, I get a maximum switching frequency of 320 Hz for 2400 rpm, at high speed or under load the input power is much the same as before because with 8 magnets the Pulse Width is much narrower. the start up torque is much better and the magnet spacing now means that my 40 degree charging coil is slightly retarded in timing to push the magnet the main motor coil just pushed and slightly advanced to pull it so I went with a push pull set up by reversing the charging coil polarity/connections so it now makes a south pole and pulls the magnet that the main coil just pushed,
it works really well and I can spin my fan blade at the same speed with 3 Watts less, now I can spin it at 1500 rpm with just under 10 Watts while getting 300 mA charge current into another battery. With a few hundred Hz the charge output is becoming useful at 80 Hz it doesn't do much.

I just use the battery in series with the cap C3 or in series with the charging coil. It's also really quiet now but it does make a nice hum.

I think this is the rotor set up I'll do gen tests with.

Cheers.

MileHigh · « **Reply #1356 on:** May 12, 2013, 11:35:02 PM »

Farmhand:

Perhaps you will wow them at the next pulse motor build off!

Here is a software fantasy build: You have some Hall sensors monitoring the rotor magnet passes at two positions. The Hall sensor outputs trigger the programmable timer inputs on the microcontroller. With software you measure the rotor speed and you can derive the rotor position to know when to fire the main drive coil. When you fire the main drive coil you also light up some LEDs to get a strobe effect to illuminate vertical white lines painted on the passing rotor magnets.

Then with "left" and "right" keyboard/keypad commands you make fine adjustments to the start and stop angles for firing the coil. You get visual feedback with the LED strobe. So you can find the "sweetest spot" for maximum RPM at a given average current consumption by tweaking the drive pulse and monitoring the RPM. Someone that knows how to code software control systems incorporating feedback loops could write a system so the tweaking of the timing is done automatically.

Here is a cool clip that shows the principle in action, the LED hard drive clock:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1asNB0te0o

The author:

Quote

The code I wrote myself, as I wanted to be able to add new types of displays and patterns to it. It does not assume the drive spins at a fixed rate, but times each revolution and calculates the delays needed to flash the display correctly. I use a timer interrupt to decide when to turn on or off the LEDs. I had used a loop comparing the timer value and it worked, sort of. Every few seconds it would glitch and the hands would quiver annoyingly. I was never sure what caused it, but switching to timer based interrupts made it rock solid. It's fun to slow the disk down with a finger and watch it still maintain the image until the disk goes too slow for the 16 bit timer to handle and starts overflowing.

If you had a rotor with four magnets on it, they will not all trigger the hall sensor at exactly the same relative angle. Also, it may be difficult to have the four rotor magnets exactly 90 degrees apart from each other. So what you can do is time each Hall sensor tick to tick with the microcontroller's built in timers. Then in software you could average the last four tick-to-tick times to get your RPM calculation. Or you could do a running average of the last 8 timing intervals, etc. This is a software low-pass filter to get a more stable RPM measurement.

MileHigh

Bonus clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Md78sOI1-r8

Farmhand · « **Reply #1357 on:** May 13, 2013, 02:18:21 AM »

When are these build off's ? What you propose is interesting but I lack the programming skills, and I went with picaxe stuff when I decided to learn a bit, most seem to use Arduino or whatever they are called (spelling). But yes I like to challenge myself and try to learn new things. I haven't learned how to count revs yet even.

I had another brainstorm and made a real big improvement, this coil placement and rotor magnet arrangement is the best by far and I've tried several methods to get more torque and start up power. I've got 8 magnets N-S-N-S ect. I made the charging coil produce a south pole at the top and placed the charging coil so that it starts out pushing a south magnet face then as the motor speeds up rather than get out of tune "timing wise" it goes from pushing a south to attracting a north, now it's more powerful again, it can now spin my fan blade at over 2000 rpm easily and speeds up pretty quick for a pulse motor. With the fan blade on it can go from 1200 rpm to 2200 rpm in about 15 seconds. With 20 Watt's input it can blow a lot of air. At low speed it's push-push and at high speed it's push-pull.

I'm making miniature generators from shaded pole motors by cutting the frame to separate the poles and drilling the rotor (squirrel cage) and inserting magnets, I tested one last night I made form a small microwave fan motor, it worked well but the wire is too thin, I rewind it. I've got an extra big one with a two inch long squirrel cage I want to convert, it has thick wire.

My motor in the previous arrangement spun the little generator up to 2200 rpm with a belt , up geared. I ran it for a couple of hours experimenting. I got 27 volts RMS out of the little generator.

Anyway I was thinking of ways the motor could self regulate it's own speed. It doesn't need to be timed on the fly now except for start up.

My pulse processing is all done in hardware, I don't need a micro to run it, just a CD4047 the sensor and some other parts.

Cheers

TinselKoala · « **Reply #1358 on:** May 13, 2013, 03:29:54 PM »

What MH is proposing is relatively trivial to do with an Arduino, a couple of Hall switches (or even just one), and some external transistors to handle the coil currents. I read his post last night and would have done the setup and programming but I don't have any free Hall sensors and I refuse to take apart an already-built motor to scavenge one.

One big advantage of the Arduino over the stand-alone microcontrollers is the programming environment. Also, the ease of interfacing and controlling makes it nice to work with. Also there are tons of help, many examples of code, and lots of people showing different Arduino projects on YT.
The ease of software reconfiguring means that it's easier to experiment with than a stand-alone TTL or CMOS logic chip pulser, once you get the hang of it.

The Hall switch will send a pulse whenever the magnet passes it. You just put the Hall switch's 5 v signal output to an input pin on the Arduino, and the pulseIn() command reads the pulse timing. From this you can derive RPM very simply by knowing the number of magnets on your rotor and the pulse durations. The arduino can be programmed to send the output pulse to a coil with whatever delay or advance and pulse duration is necessary for the RPM, and the advance/retard and pulse duration timings can be sent to the Arduino live, either by two simple potentiometer controls or by keyboard mappings as MH suggests, and the whole thing can be monitored on the serial monitor using the Arduino programming environment or other terminal emulation application of your choice. Or you can use an LCD or touchscreen display very easily with the Arduino.
A little more sophisticated setup would use a ratiometric Hall sensor and then you could even select the precise magnetic field strength at which to send a pulse to the drive coil. This might actually automagically correct timing for RPM.

I'm not a salesman, but I love my Arduinos, they are cheap, easy to program and use, hard to break (I have blown one PWM channel output transistor on my Uno, out of eight...) and can do just about anything in terms of controlling little electronic devices. Or even big ones.

Farmhand · « **Reply #1359 on:** May 13, 2013, 04:07:32 PM »

Well you sold me on it Tinsel, I'm gonna get one now. Any suggestions on the actual chip or start up kit I should get ? Is there USB interface, or just serial ?

Anyway I think you'll like my next video clip, I got it really thumping, it's kinda deceptive the sound doesn't match the speed kinda thing, but the tachometer jumps in the hundreds of revs. The capacitor C2 has a Sine wave on it that Matches the input pulse just like a Tesla coils wave forms, the pulse is less than 50% but the square side of the drain wave form matches to exactly the down slope of the sine on C2 kind of thing, like my Armstrong oscillator variant's wave forms.

The timing now is now almost automatic over a certain range due to the way the coils are oriented to the magnets but some auto adjustment would be very helpful. I can use my micro to switch the power to the coils off if a certain drain voltage is reached ect. as protections, which can be used to limit speed kind of.

Video will be about 15 minutes, it should be good for a laugh at my hot glue skills when prototyping.

I need to try that coil at a few degrees either side of 45* just to make sure I'm doing the right thing with the main build, it could have two motor coils and a single charging coil with two appropriate windings on it, the charging coil will be between the two motor coils so only the bottom 90 degrees of the rotor would be used for driving, (like a cradle). A 90 degree tripple, or I could make it two sets of coils on each side so two 45 degree N-S twin coil set ups that way. Dunno yet. If the testing shows me 45* is actually the best then it's a go ahead on something. I want some open space on the rotor for experimenting and to keep it upright and bottom heavy, I'll have to set up a rotor balancing device as well.

It's really a lot of fun. I'll need to get hall's i've never used them, sounds good though.

Cheers

P.S. Here's the second video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aC5Hdp6LSMU

And the circuit as it is now. I cut the circuit explanation part off the video to make two smaller uploads it's uploading now It's the first part.

..

TinselKoala · « **Reply #1360 on:** May 13, 2013, 04:32:48 PM »

Quote from: Farmhand on May 13, 2013, 04:07:32 PM

Well you sold me on it Tinsel, I'm gonna get one now. Any suggestions on the actual chip or start up kit I should get ? Is there USB interface, or just serial ?

Anyway I think you'll like my next video clip, I got it really thumping, it's kinda deceptive the sound doesn't match the speed kinda thing, but the tachometer jumps in the hundreds of revs. The capacitor C2 has a Sine wave on it that Matches the input pulse just like a Tesla coils wave forms, the pulse is less than 50% but the square side of the drain wave form matches to exactly the down slope of the sine on C2 kind of thing, like my Armstrong oscillator variant's wave forms.

The timing now is now almost automatic over a certain range due to the way the coils are oriented to the magnets but some auto adjustment would be very helpful. I can use my micro to switch the power to the coils off if a certain drain voltage is reached ect. as protections, which can be used to limit speed kind of.

Video will be about 15 minutes, it should be good for a laugh at my hot glue skills when prototyping. I need to try that coil at a few degrees either side of 45* just to make sure I'm doing the right thing with the main build, it could have two motor coils and a single charging coil with two appropriate windings on it, the charging coil will be between the two motor coils so only the bottom 90 degrees of the rotor would be used for driving, (like a cradle). A 90 degree tripple, or I could make it two sets of coils on each side so two 45 degree N-S twin coil set ups that way. Dunno yet. If the testing shows me 45* is actually the best then it's a go ahead on something. I want some open space on the rotor for experimenting and to keep it upright and bottom heavy, I'll have to set up a rotor balancing device as well.

It's really a lot of fun. I'll need to get hall's i've never used them, sounds good though.

Cheers

Arduino clones are made by many different manufacturers but the hardware specification is followed by them all so they are mostly exact equivalents. I use the OSEPP brand and the Uno model for most of my stuff, although I also have an OSEPP Mega, the larger faster version with a lot more IO ports and RAM.
I would suggest getting an Uno, which will have the Atmel ATMega 328p chip and the USB interface. I bought the OSEPP brand because it is carried in-store at the local Fry's; you may find other brands to your liking, but the basic Uno of whatever Arduino clone is what I'd suggest starting with. Other models might have faster processors and more hardware interrupts but I don't think these are necessary for the pulse motor.
http://osepp.com/products/arduino-compatible-boards/osepp-uno-arduino-compatible/
http://osepp.com/learning-centre/start-here/osepp-arduino-basic-companion-kit-start/
You can download and look at the Arduino IDE here:
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
If you are using Linux, as I am, the installation is easier than what's described for windows in the links above. It just installs and works, from the Ubuntu package manager. The IDE comes with many example sketches (programs) that you can look through, and there's a complete command reference at the arduino.cc site.
I don't have a pulse motor built using the Arduino but here's my video example of sensor position detecting, with precise, adjustable timing, switching a heavy coil thru an external transistor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pHDi9UvBOU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkiGTWODERo

BTW, I love your builds and your documentation and your careful work and thought process. I think you are a great example to other experimenters here... and to me as well. Thanks for sharing your work!

Farmhand · « **Reply #1361 on:** May 13, 2013, 05:27:47 PM »

Here's the first video link so I'll link the two video's together here, the first video gives an explanation of sorts, if my mumbling can be understood, the problem is I think ahead of my talking and stumble on my own words.

Video 1 Cicuit explanation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IndhigMm2Bs

Video 2 Test Run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aC5Hdp6LSMU

Thank you very much for the links and the tips and help Tinsel much appreciated, I can spend wisely now. Using the same hardware as most others will be helpful.

The thing with the fan load is that at low rpm the fan is not much load but at higher rpm the motor must work harder for smaller gain because it takes more work to get from say 1800 rpm to 1900 rpm than it does to go from 1600 rpm to 1700 rpm.

I'm thinking I could use a squirrel cage on the extended shaft with magnets put into the squirrel cage so I can mount a four pole stator around it then I can switch the generator coils in series with the supply capacitor for regenerative purposes.

Hopefully it could act as a brake by switching the coils in with a mosfet. A test load apparatus as well, built right in on the shaft and there would still be room for a belt/gear or pulley on either side. I used an actual fan shaft and squirrel cage to make my rotor they are 8 mm so the roller skate bearing fit snug, the spacers are rattling though.

Cheers

TinselKoala · « **Reply #1362 on:** May 13, 2013, 06:27:22 PM »

Great, Farmhand!
Re fanload: As we found out in the Yildiz thread, you can get pretty good shaft power estimates if you use a known load like a model airplane propeller. Believe it or not, the aerodynamics of these things are researched and known to fair accuracy because at the higher levels, it's a competitive sport. You can get suitable propellers for small cost, you can stack them together to make multi-blade loads, and you can know the shaft power dissipation simply by knowing the stable RPM reached by the prop, your local air data parameters, and some number crunching.
http://adamone.rchomepage.com/calc_thrust.htm
Check out all the different propellers in the "prop type" pulldown.
The power dissipation of a fan or prop goes as some power of the RPM (like square or third, I can't remember) so the faster you go the harder it is to go faster.

Farmhand · « **Reply #1363 on:** May 13, 2013, 06:57:02 PM »

I see yes model airplane props would have to be tested for specs or rated on known principals. Good idea.

Here is the small generator I modded from a shaded pole motor, I left the shading bars on the small tryout one but I'll also try it without them. It has two north poles in a row and two south poles so it's basically a two pole generator it make nice sine waves too. You can see how I cut the joined parts of the core around the rotor to separate the poles to the sides and make gaps. With the bigger one I'll make rows of North then south magnets following the curves on the rotor to minimize cogging, cogging is lumpy in the little one but it spins up and generates sine waves.

Basically it make a generator kind of like this Tesla design below but with four permanent magnets on the rotor. As well is a picture of the bigger motor I intend to modify, it has 0.5 mm or so wire 480 mH and not much resistance the rotor is wide enough to take a row of magnets following the curves. And a pic showing how I made the rotor from a cutting board and old fan, I chewed the recess out of the bit of wood to take the optical sensor, hahaha.

Cheers

MileHigh · « **Reply #1364 on:** May 14, 2013, 04:43:27 AM »

Farmhand and TK:

If anybody ever goes the microcontroller route to generate the pulse timing based on the measured RPM of the rotor that would be really cool. If you looked at that LED hard drive clock clip, it's really impressive how when he slows down the rotor the pulse timing remains dead-on. Note that even for your current builds, just having a separate transistor to switch on some LEDs to see the pulse timing relative to a white painted-on line (White-Out) on the rotor magnets may be interesting. You don't have to use it all the time.

I actually haven't had a chance to look at Farmhand's clips yet. For the "Pulse Motor Build-off" you can check with Tinman or ZeroFossilFuel or Russ Gries. They are the guys that typically organize it and have all of the info.

I am not a "fan" of using a propeller prop as a load because I think the typical pulse motor spins too slowly. I think the pulse motor driving a generator attached to a load resistor is the better route. During the Yildiz fiasco a very good suggestion was made to use two bathroom scales. With a smaller pulse motor using two digital scales might be perfect. All that you have to do is measure the RPM and the weights on the scales (assuming a pulse motor with a horizontal axis) and crunch some numbers and you will be able to measure the mechanical power output of your motor in watts.

MileHigh

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Author Topic: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect (Read 834737 times)

synchro1

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

MileHigh

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

Farmhand

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

Farmhand

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

Farmhand

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

Farmhand

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

MileHigh

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

Farmhand

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

TinselKoala

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

Farmhand

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

TinselKoala

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

Farmhand

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

TinselKoala

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

Farmhand

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect

MileHigh

Re: Confirming the Delayed Lenz Effect