Hi Everyone,

Yes this has become a very productive thread

HHO is still a potential solution in my opinion but Mr Goose is correct, at current levels of efficiency it is a poor option for self sufficiency. However, that was the entire point of the Hydro Electro Lytic Turbine technologies, a new direction that may one day improve those efficiencies to a level that becomes viable.

Plasma is very interesting and is the fourth state of matter. Plasma, Gas, Liquid, Solid. It is important to remember that all four of those are fluids in different energetic states. This is why I have labored the point about understanding fluid dynamics and attempted to bring the subject to you in a practical format you can pursue.

The Scramjet is a perfect example of the same principles applied in a new application, and HELIS will allow you to play with Plasma production while at the same time adhering to the principles of fluid dynamics and the relationship between pressure and velocity, which is key in manipulating energy states.

I am glad you like the little chipper Mr Goose, your right it does offer the opportunity to create fuel and sell the surplus. Here is an ebay seller of bulk wood chips:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WOODCHIP-mulch-bark-wood-chip-paths-allotments-gardens-/250812841337?pt=UK_H_G_Garden_Plants_Landscaping_Garden_Materials_ET&hash=item3a659c3d79

With fuel cost at zero you only have maintenance cost of the machine and the cost in collecting the branches, as long as you have a ready supply of course.

We can also take this idea one step further, remember the buggy I told you about ? Well you can buy these new or off ebay secondhand with an ICE and everything else already installed. If you were to mount a gasifier at the rear and seal the cockpit you would be able to power it from wood chips.

If you were to take the chipping unit off the garden chipper and mount that so that it can be run from the engine you would be able to process the fuel on the vehicle, effectively giving you unlimited range. This would be simple to do as with the gearbox in neutral the engine can still be revved and the shaft still turns, it is just no longer transmitting drive to the gearbox.

If you were to mount a simple pulley to the engine output shaft in addition to the gearbox connection then you could connect the chipping unit via a belt whenever you wanted to make more fuel. As long as you carried some woodchips for the purpose of making more, same principle as carrying a jerrycan full of fuel for emergencies, you would become self sufficient barring mechanical failure of the equipment.

Pretty easy stuff really, any engine mechanic could do this with his eyes shut. The other alternative, if the engine configuration makes it too difficult to mount a secondary pulley would be to carry a jack and axle stands (fit to body not axle!) and lift the drive wheels off the floor, you could then run the chipper unit from the drive wheels shaft using a pulley and belt. Lot's and lot's of options here people!

RM

Hello Everyone,

Here is the Everyman Gasifier Unit.

It can be constructed from 316 Stainless Steel 150lb class pipe fittings and simply screws together.

As a general rule of thumb use BSPP for FEMALE and BSPT for MALE. This will form a seal without sealant. However if a seal is required use clay on the threads and the outside of the fittings which will become a custom ceramic seal when “cooked”.

The custom 2” pipe nipple must be threaded manually to fit the double inverted 4” to 2” reducing sockets.

I have not added the filter unit or valves to control gas flow to engine manifold because I do not have the energy tonight. The unit appears sealed at the top but is not, this is a section view remember

This is so simple I do not even need to describe it. It is a little pricey compared to scrap parts, but when you consider it will last forever, can be easily dismantled for maintenance, screws together, and is size customiseable then the benefits outweigh the initial setup costs.

The fuel hopper height is customiseable depending on your fuel tank size preference and the size of your wallet.

This is about as simple as it gets without requiring any special skills.

Some resources:

http://zx55.com/default.asp

http://zx55.com/shopexd.asp?id=2295

http://zx55.com/shopexd.asp?id=2476

http://zx55.com/shopexd.asp?id=2237

http://zx55.com/shopexd.asp?id=5053

http://www.tapdie.com/html/bspipe__dies.html

RM

RM

Good work man.


Regards

Hi Everyone,

I found this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Black-High-Temperature-Sealant-1200C-310ml-Not-Silicone-/270736310952?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f092442a8

Says it is not silicone and good to 1200C after (up to) 4 days curing...

Manufacturer:

http://www.denbraven.nl/en/product-range/miscellaneous/zwaluw-fire-sealant-1200%C2%B0c

Data Sheet:

http://www.denbraven.nl/documents/pdfs/products/technical_datasheet/83_en.pdf

I have ordered some so I will let you know if it does what it says on the tin

RM

Hi Everyone,

I wanted to let you all know that the Mk2 is viable.

You will have to perform one modification to get it to work. I have put a modification instruction below. As you can see you will need to drill out the inside of one of the reducing sockets so that the custom parallel nipple will screw right through it. Leave the other reducing socket as standard.

Loctite an end cap onto a length of custom nipple and screw it in hand tight. Mount the socket in a pillar drill and remove the red material. The drill bit will spin clockwise and when it contacts the custom nipple it will unscrew it and you will see the hexagon end cap begin to spin.

The nipple is there to protect the threads from the drill bit. Once drilled insert a fresh custom nipple and screw it through by getting a wrench on the hex and cap. I would not use the one that you drilled because it might not cut a good thread after being damaged by drilling.

That is the only modification you will have to make to get the system to work... the rest of it screws together beautifully! It is a really high quality piece of kit and I think you guys are going to be chuffed when you got one assembled! 

Two things to note:

The fuel hopper can be enhanced by using larger diameter fittings to expand fuel capacity and reduce height.

The charcoal collection area at the bottom can be enhanced by fitting a tee and end plugs, enlarging the area available without adding to the height so much.

I will put up a new version when I have time

I also added a reducing bush, hosetails and ball valves. All available from zx55 if you look around the site. One thing to note is the ball valves have a plastic liner seal, no idea if this will degrade or not, time will tell.

Here is a potential hose you could use:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/E85-Ethanol-Biodiesel-Alcohol-Fuel-Injection-Hose-3-8-/110661007831?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c3e8f9d7

Here is a potential box you could use:

http://www.tuffboxes.co.uk/

A custom seal would need to be made to make the box airtight, I am sure you guys can rig one up no problems Also seal any holes.

Pay attention to materials compatibility!

This box might be galvanised:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization

So we can see that galvanisation means a zinc coating. This is important because this safety data sheet for the Zwaluw fire sealant 1200C says in part 10:

http://www.denbraven.nl/documents/pdfs/products/safety_datasheet/83_en.pdf

10. STABILITY AND REACTIVITY
Hazardous decomposition products : Hydrogen gas in reaction with aluminium, zinc, tin and alloys of these.

Materials to avoid : Reacts with aluminium, zinc, tin and alloys of these and form hydrogen gas which may form an explosive mixture with air.

Conditions to avoid : Unknown.

So if the box is galvanised and zinc coated you CANNOT use this sealant. Got it ?

Now, I mentioned that I was not going to tell you how to do it but I have changed my mind. This is because my idea of DO IT RIGHT and your ideas may differ. So...

A separate 12v battery in the boot for the system would be a good idea to prevent power spikes when the starter motor is used from the car battery.

12v Carbon Monoxide detector:

http://www.discount-electrical.co.uk/product.php/379664452/aico-battery-carbon-monoxide-alarm-with-memory-feature-12v

This can be wired straight to the 12v battery with a suitable circuit. You guys can figure this out as I am not skilled in this area. Triple redundancy is required! This means that a sensor must be measuring the gas leak inside the box, and two must be measuring the gas leaks outside the box inside the car.

Thermocouples:

http://www.omega.co.uk/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=BT-000_BT-090

Double redundancy required here with 2off thermocouples mounted through the box wall. This will allow you to monitor the air temperature inside the box, which is air cooled. You do not have to buy this one, I just put it up as an example because you can see that it is available with a 1/8 BSPT thread which will seal when used with a bulkhead fitting.

12v fan:

http://www.ebuyer.com/product/138586

You will need two air inlets per box in different locations, this will stop a plastic carrier bag getting sucked over the inlet and stopping your airflow. Alternatively a protection grill over the inlets as a filter would be a good idea.

The 12v fans need to be on the outlet, and there needs to be two outlets, so two fans per box. This will keep the airflow exchange going even when the vehicle is stationary.

Now let's talk about system monitoring and control, you could use a laptop or alternatively one of these:

http://www.mini-itx.com/store/

A tiny little computer that you can build yourself. There are so many guides on how to build a computer on the internet that I am not going to cover it. It is easy, and gets even easier if you buy a bundle as the compatibility of each component is guaranteed. The computer guys have already figured it out for you.

Now, A computer has a power supply that rectifies the 240v coming out of your wall socket down to 12v, 5v or 3v as necessary depending on what the component in the computer requires. You will not be running a 240v system in the car you will be running 12v

So, the power supply will not be needed! However what you must pay attention too is the sine wave quality. Computer components do not like power spikes and normally the power supply acts as the buffer for the delicate components of the computer.

You can run a computer off a car battery by using a pure sign wave inverter from 240v to 12v, but these get very expensive due to the quality of the signal required.

So if you were to remove the power supply and add a 12v filter that outputs a pure sign wave between the car battery and the pc you would be sorted. You can cut the connector for the motherboard off the power supply and wire it to your filter yourself. You guys can figure this out, power supply mods are not my strong area.

If you were to run a Linux variant operating system, which is free, and there are so many versions to choose from you would have a stable operating system. Make sure you do not go wireless on the mini ITX specification as this will allow people to remotely hack your computer, you do not need wireless at all!

Now, if someone were to program a monitoring and control piece of software to run the system in a language like Visual Basic for example, and then release the source code, this would be taken and improved on by the super whiz kids who hang around the computer forums. The software would develop exponentionally and get better every version. This is the same principle as Linux operates on

If you were to add things such as remote ignitors, and solenoid actuated control valves etc. you would have a complete on-board management system for your hybrid vehicle, all controlled from one screen.

Then you could add things like automatic fire suppression systems, such as a CO2 fire extinguisher that could be remotely triggered by an actuator when the system senses something has gone wrong and wants to perform an emergency shutdown. Also have a secondary fire extinguisher that is manually operated by pulling the pin and squeezing the handle as a backup. The fire extinguishers are mounted solidly via fittings through the box outer wall.

So, you will now have a vehicle that is a true Hybrid. You keep the gasoline tank as standard and this allows you to just jump in and go, or for short journeys when you don't want to fire up the gasifier system. This only require's a solenoid actuator fuel shut off valve in the mainline from the gas tank to the engine. Easy 

All of this system is remotely controlled by smart software and a computer, with all of the necessary components available off the shelf or open source

RM

Hi Everyone,

I was playing with the jigsaw earlier and look what I made

The Plasma Injection Gasifier Generator... Fondly referred to by myself as the PIGG...

A new design of low pressure 150lb BSP class gasifier, steam now injected to break down the fuel, wood + sand, to make us some Syngas

A cross fitting with two spark plugs acting as HV Arc Electrodes to create a Plasma Arc Reactor.

A GECV to control the Plasma priming and firing pulses...

A Scramjet nozzle to give us supersonic thrust...

A Turbine to convert that thrust into Rotary Moment...

A PMA to convert that Rotary Moment into AC or DC...

The possibilities are stimulating... 

Points to note:

A Scramjet can operate in one of two modes, either the Scramjet is moved through the fluid to create supersonic compression... or... the fluid is moved through the Scramjet to create supersonic compression.

Only the taxpayer can afford Option one (although he never gets to play with it), Option two is far easier you just gotta blow some gas up!

The Scramjet Gas Bypass is critical... get the balance right

The Plasma Arc Reactor, GECV, Scramjet, and Turbine, along with the Scramjet Gas Bypass must all be 316 stainless 3000lb class Hydraulic Fittings... ONLY!

A PAR, GECV and Scramjet Assy would make a mighty fine Scramjet Rocket Turbine...

Be mindful of anything that starts to melt...

Late at night when the World is quiet... you can hear it in the stillness of the moment... the sound you imagine a tumbleweed to make... it is the sound of the 100th Monkey whispering on the wind...

“Who has a PIGG?”

RM

Everyman Gasifier Unit Mk3...

An improved design increasing fuel capacity and decreasing height.

1” Nippling Tube provides off the shelf fire tube, however it is more expensive than threading your own.

RM

Hi Everyone,

I have just uploaded a video to youtube showing an advanced prototype concept for an Everyman Gasifier Unit...

Grab it quick before youtube ban it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THHx_FD3vfU

RM