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Author Topic: HHO kits for sale?  (Read 19745 times)

Indigo2Angel

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HHO kits for sale?
« on: March 28, 2011, 12:36:39 PM »
I want to create hho gas on demand to run a small car. I am just starting this project and i'm verry excited after seeing this interview:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxko4jjVMyQ&feature=channel_video_title

My question is: are there any kits for sale on the internet, and if so what would be the best choice.


Thanks in Advance

ramset

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2011, 02:34:19 PM »
Indigo
Tons of folks are interested in this,But you will burn up more energy [a Lot] than you produce in HHO!

NO BODY is Sharing the "How its done"![YET]

Sad but true.......................

I guess they like "Radioactive Clouds"?

Chet

Indigo2Angel

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2011, 03:17:42 PM »
Thank you ramset for your reply,

the how to is in the open: http://pesn.com/2007/09/29/9500450_BobBoyce_Electrolizer_Plans/d9.pdf

i was just wondering if there were kits for the plates and housing, for the electronics and turoid i will be able to produce myself.

Thanks

ramset

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2011, 03:29:07 PM »
Do A search for member "Les Banki"
Look at his posts ,find his Email and ask him !!

Chet

Indigo2Angel

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2011, 03:42:03 PM »
 ;) gotyah

Thnx

ramset

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2011, 05:08:43 PM »
Indigo
Tell Les  Chet says Hello,
And please post his "Link" here [I lost it in a crash]

ThX
Chet

Indigo2Angel

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2011, 07:56:25 PM »
gotyah Chet

cubalibre

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2011, 10:51:24 PM »
Hello

If you want to save gasoline running your car lots of HHO kits are ready to use, sold on ebay. This will work, the efficiency of the cumbustion of gasoline is higher if HHO is added.

Producing 6 MMW ( 600 Mililiters HHO gas / Minute / 100 Watts) with an efficient dry cell will be enough to bring you miles per gallon up.

If you want much more than 6 MMW, then you need to replicate BB or other great inventers, but this is very tricky. This is OU in HHO production.

BobBoyce is supporting the hydrogengarage.
My small order was processed fully satisfactory.

http://stores.homestead.com/hydrogengarage/-strse-Boyce-101-Plate-Cell/Categories.bok

http://www.bobboyce.org/

http://www.courtiestown.co.uk/batteries/shop.htm

cubalibre

Indigo2Angel

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2011, 02:13:07 PM »
There we go, thank you soo much cubalibre

appr it

(y)

Indigo2Angel

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #9 on: March 29, 2011, 05:42:10 PM »

ramset

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2011, 10:11:30 PM »
Indigo
I wasn't steering you wrong Bud,You said you wanted to "Run a small car"

You need to talk to Les Banki

Les
Quote:
Overview & explanation of my complete Engine Control Unit design.

In order to AVOID future misunderstandings, I decided to write this overview/explanation but first, I wish to make some VERY IMPORTANT statements and I ask ALL readers: Please make sure you UNDERSTAND them!

The Engine Control Unit (ECU) design I am presenting to the public, IN ITSELF,   
is NO GUARANTEE to produce enough Hydroxy to run any engine!

The VOLUME and QUALITY of Hydroxy will depend almost ENTIRELY on what kind of electrolysis system is used.  (and perhaps some additional factors not covered here)
[some examples: ‘brute force’ low voltage, series cells, high voltage series cells, (with or without ‘resonance’ drive), Hasebe replica, Stan Meyer type ‘resonance’ cells, etc., etc.]

My INTENTION (with the numerous building blocks of the ECU) is to provide anyone who is willing to ‘get their hands dirty’ with the necessary CONTROL ELECTRONICS to achieve their goal.
In essence, what I am saying here is: 
IF we are to use the old, rather crude and VERY inefficient (around 26%) Internal Combustion Engine at all, we need to provide it with ignition sparks at the correct times, supply fuel (in this case, Hydroxy) at the correct times and in correct volumes.
Further, the fuel pressure needs to be held steady (pressure regulation) and the power required to create the Hydroxy also needs to be supplied AND controlled (limited).

The need for all this control is INDEPENDENT of the method used for generating the required volume of Hydroxy!
In other words, REGARDLESS of which method of Hydroxy generation is employed, the supply & controls described above are ESSENTIAL.
However, you have probably noticed that I offer additional circuits as well, not absolutely necessary but desirable for a smooth working control system and power back up
(for example: automatic battery charger circuit).
There is also a convenient control panel where all adjustment are made and pressure, current and voltage levels are SET and DISPLAYED.

There is no denying that this design aims at PRODUCTION!  (not just for experiments)

Anyone who is not too familiar with general physics, electrolysis, ICE
(Internal Combustion Engine) and electronics technology, could be forgiven for perhaps questioning the need for the number of circuits already presented!  (still more to come!)

It is also likely to give an impression of unnecessary complexity and create confusion.

Note that I choose the name Engine Control Unit (ECU) deliberately as its functions are similar to that of the existing systems used by car manufacturers.
However, all unnecessary functions of the ‘standard’ ECU have been left out!
On the other hand, its functions are expanded to include the power supply AND control  to create the FUEL itself, Hydroxy.

All circuit sections are mainly ANALOG, using common, cheap and readily available components.  (NO ‘microprocessors’, NO complex software programming!)

In simple terms, (detailed info in the respective circuit descriptions) here is a list of the circuits I have developed/designed and their intended use:

Hall switch  – tiny pcb, mounted on the engine. 
With a small permanent magnet attached to the exhaust valve’s ‘rocker arm’, it supplies pulses to the Ignition/Injection control module. 
These pulses indicate the piston’s position in the engine’s work cycle.

Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) module – when connected to an ignition coil,
it creates the required high voltage (20,000V+) to fire the spark plug.

Ignition & Injection control module – supplies the control pulses to the CDI module (WHEN to deliver the sparks) and the drive pulses to the injection solenoid. 

Automatic RPM control – automatically brings engine speed from start-up to the correct RPM where the generator supplies approx. 240V with a frequency of 50Hz.

Feed-back control loop – to maintain a STEADY frequency (50Hz) and voltage (240V) output with varying loads.

Test oscillator – it is powered up ONLY during set-up (when the engine is not turning  there are NO pulses from the Hall switch) it provides the pulses needed for testing. 
However, since this oscillator is NOT used during normal operation, if desired, it could be used to flash the LED which indicates power SHUT DOWN to the electrolyzer in the event the flash-back arrestor’s water level drops too LOW.

Pressure regulator module – decides the desired pressure ‘scale’ (PSI, kPA or whatever), Sets and displays the pressure limit and continuously monitors and displays
(on the control panel) the actual pressure.

TL494-PWM 1- supplies and regulates the low voltage required for some cells
(for example the ‘Hasebe’ cell at about 2.8V – 30A) 
Switching FREQUENCY is also adjustable.

TL494-PWM 2 – same as above but different adjustment range. 
Used to reduce supply voltage from the unregulated 15-16V to 12V (or less, if necessary to reduce pump speed) for the circulation pump used with the Hasebe cell.

Current (power) limiter – intended mainly to be used with PWM 1 to limit the current to a SET maximum but can also be used with any other power supply which has ‘shut down’ (‘inhibit’) facility.  Supplies both positive and negative control voltage.

Battery charger –  automatic charger, used to maintain FULL charge AT ALL TIMES on a stand-by battery which will be necessary once mains power is no longer connected.
(for re-start after maintenance stops)

Power supply (regulator) module – supplies +12V-1, +12V-2, -12V, +5V and -5V to the various modules and sensors.

Water level sensor & pump driver 1 – used to automatically detect the minimum water level in the electrolyzer unit and refill to the set maximum level when necessary.

Water level sensor (& pump driver) 2 – used to detect the minimum (Danger!) water level in the flash-back arrestor and SHUTS DOWN the electrolyzer power supply!
Can also be used (with a second pump) for automatic re-fill of the flash-back arrestor.

240V AC Phase Control module – intended to be used as POWER INPUT CONTROL for 120 cell (series) electrolyzers. 

Phase Control current limiter 1 – uses Hall effect based LINEAR current sensor
ACS712 ELCTR 20A-T to measure electrolyzer circuit current, adjusts the desired limit and controls the above Phase control module. 

Phase Control current limiter 2 – same function as the one above BUT it uses a silicon diode (in a Wheatstone bridge configuration) as a current sensor.  (dirt cheap!)
The sensing diode detects the TEMPERATURE RISE in a short, narrow copper track on the pcb.  (see more details in its circuit description)

Note: only ONE of these current limiters is used, NOT both!

Relay board – a universal AC/DC 30A relay with a 12V DC coil, transistor driver and indicator LED.  Intended for general HIGH power switching and is used mainly with the timer & timer interphase circuit.

Timer & timer interphase module – while NOT essential, it is VERY ‘handy’, particularly for REPEATED experiments. 
It eliminates time measuring errors and a lot of ‘guess work’. 
Also eliminates large mechanical power switches! 
It can also be used to stop the engine/generator after a pre-set time (up to 24 hours!)

Power supply filter capacitor board – just a practical & convenient way to mount
10 large value electrolytic filter capacitors (4700uF, 25V).

Control panel –
See circuit description for the functions which can be SET and DISPLAYED.

Closing notes: 
Once again, as indicated in this overview, not all circuits are being used at the same time. 
I have tried to cover everything I could think of which I thought would the necessary and/or desirable to control.  This would give a choice of options, if you like.
 
I wanted ALL electronic controls in place and available when (or if) they were needed, just so I would NOT need to run “back to the drawing board” (computer) to do more designs in the middle of the physical work with engines! 

Coming up with the concepts, developing/designing the circuits, drawing the circuit diagrams and pcb layouts, writing the circuit descriptions (and other writings), chasing part samples needed for the designs, etc., has taken over 4 years of hard work.

If I have missed or left out something, let me know!  I will do my best to fill the gap!

Finally, judging by the number of posts on several Forums, the ignition and
”waste spark” issues have received a fair bit of attention lately.
Quoted here is part of just one such post to help me illustrate my point:

“I just converted a 5 HP Briggs with a 4 to 1 gear reducer hooked to the crankshaft (3 gears, all 2 to 1 reduction) and added an old set of points from a 69 gmc that have the condenser built in (had a great time at the auto parts store buying these), welded a bolt to the last gear to trigger the points, I mounted the gears on a plate that ties into the 4 bolt pattern on the rear of the engine, slotted the holes in a circular pattern so that I could adjust the timing on the fly, added a coil and a coil resistor, hooked it up to a battery and fired up my CHEAP, SIMPLE!!! ignition system (the old timers had this all figured out already, why reinvent the wheel, keep it simple),….”

So what IS my point?
Well, just about every engine BRAND and MODEL is different. 
Some may be able to be modified like that above, some won’t.
And so, here is the BIG question: 
Which of the two options (below) do you prefer?
1.  The above mechanical method: gears, rods, welding, etc., which (as described) is a power hungry Kettering system, drawing between 5 and 10A!  (60 – 120W) 
OR,
2.  Fit a small magnet to the exhaust valve’s rocker arm, attach the tiny Hall switch pcb to the engine block and then turn a potentiometer on the control panel to set your desired ignition point, continuously variable +/- 45° from TDC, while the engine is running! 
Oh, by the way, my CDI system draws only 0.5A.   MAXIMUM power draw is 6W!!)

 Les Banki
(Electronic Design Engineer)
Water Fuel & LBE Technologies
------------------

Good luck
To my Knowledge  ,Running a car solely on HHO Is a very tricky road!!

Chet

Indigo2Angel

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2011, 11:14:10 PM »
after all the testing we did last year you are tru ramset

there is no ov from hho ;)

Indigo2Angel

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #12 on: March 29, 2011, 11:19:08 PM »
 ;D
cubalibre

h20power

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2011, 06:09:31 PM »
You can give this company a try for all the control stuff you might need: http://www.omnitekcorp.com/altfuel.htm They have gaseous type injectors and ECU's plus a whole lot more. If you combine that with what I put out about Stanley A. Meyer's work you will get any car running. The device called the Gas Processor is how you amp up the energy levels of the reaction combing hydrogen and oxygen to form water, you can read the science behind the patents here: http://www.hereticalbuilders.com/showthread.php?t=174 There you will see just what that device is doing as far as adding energy to the system is concerned. You will have to build the Gas Processor for your self for as far as I know there are only a handful that have been created in the world as most people didn't understand what the device was doing and simply didn't think it was a big deal to leave out, but they are all wrong. This is about energy and finding ways to get things done with the least amount of it as we can. Meyer used field ionization and laser energy combined for the most part to do the things he did. It all has to with ionization, and getting things to eject electrons. For molecules will fall apart when they start ejecting electrons for those ejected electrons where responsible for holding the molecule together. The added laser energy that will be absorbed by the molecules or atoms will work in a way to lessen the amount of electrical energy is needed to remove the electrons for energy is always conserved.

Have fun!

h2opower

Indigo2Angel

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Re: HHO kits for sale?
« Reply #14 on: March 30, 2011, 06:32:30 PM »
Thank you h20power for your reply,

i'm not concerned about energy for i have way's to create it, the problem would be to keep the unit in resonance, luckely i have my parallax advanced development board with high 50Mhz programmable micro processor(s) with 40 io connections and as a programmer myself i think i have a good change to make this work.

keep up the good work!!