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Author Topic: FISHER AND PYCKEL smart drive modification for OU production  (Read 7722 times)

Offline ashtweth_nihilisti

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please see attachment for full circuit and pictures.


FISHER AND PYCKEL smart drive modification for OU production

Back round???????????????????????.
Ideas??????????????????????????
OU Circuit by Phil wood???..?????.?.????????.

Back round

The fisher and pyckel washing machine smart drive motors have been recently adopted in kit form to be modified for windmill power generation. Usually they are sold in a ?starter? kit form for this very purpose.

The Windmill adaptation plans are available from this great site.
http://www.thebackshed.com/

The Smart drive motor kits are usually for sale on e-bay. Depending on your location the price is usually under 60-100$. I have found the cheapest resides in Australia. On the other hand the shipping costs to your country will go over the mentioned budget. In Australia it cost 40AU to send by sea mail, but takes 3 months (cheapest option).

One person particularly in New Zealand sells 3 in a kit bulk priced, but of cause the trade off is shipping to you country.
http://www.ecoinnovation.co.nz/pdf/energywise_mag.pdf
http://www.ecoinnovation.co.nz/

 
 The F&P are wired for 24volts. There are 3 Hall effect sensors that clip between some of the coils.

 Every coil shares the same laminated ring. Meaning there is a large stack of thin laminates that are shaped like chunky gears where each coil is wound over each tooth. The have been reports from an experimenter that one used had separate magnets set into the rotor casing where each magnet had 4 poles on the same face. Then the later model had been just one solid magnetic ring magnet with the alternating poles charged into this ring magnet.

The motor lends its self for a perfect Adams motor concept or one phase driven motor circuit that is explained next.

 



 A diagram of the stator factory winding taken from the back shed site. The phases are X Y & Z... This 1 group of 14 poles, so each phase consists of 14 poles.

There is no need to re-wire these motors for use as a generator (unless using for a wind mill for appropriate wattage). Each bank of 8 coils is connected in series, and the start of each winding on each bank is connected together forming a centre tapped Y configuration.

F&P motors are wired similar too a centre tapped Y and they are driven with low side pulsing, one phase after the other. It is not recommended running these motors at high RPM speeds as the plastic rotors are designed for very low RPM being a direct drive on a washing machine. This is definitely a good safety advice as washing machines operate at max 1200-1400 rpm.

One experimenter has witnessed cracks appearing in the rotor plastic casing from pushing a little too hard. The rotor is quiet heavy also but maybe balancing them properly with a safety steel band would solve some issues.
However If you were too fix one of these F&P motors on a 3phase  RV  prime mover as agenerator I would not stay in the same room if any faster than 1000 RPM was operating. If one wanted to consider doing this, a solution is to take apart the rotor and stator and replace its housing and casing with steel or harder plastic laminates.

Ideas

Advice is to use the Hall effect devices that are fixed on the F&P motor, as they are in the exact position needed. You can not use reed switches for any real O-U function as they are not clean in their switching and do not last more
than 10 minutes if high frequency is involved.

The reed switches are not clean (instead of one pulse they create some fast vibration-pulses at the start of the contacts closure or disconnect).

Concerning the RV prime mover, since it is a 3-phase device, 2 of these phases, can be used and driven as normal permanent magnet rotor (F and P PM rotor) coupled to the RV prime mover. Only probably they have to be driven with much higher frequencies than 50 or 60Hz because of so many poles.

It is in much interest and worthy of consideration of how much power one could get out of the generator part when the prime mover is driven in resonance. Also the prime mover can be driven in resonance using the reed-switch or hall-sensor controlled bedini-style system and suitable resonance caps.

Other ideas:

After changing the plastic and re enforcing with steal rotor and bases, re grease the baring with low friction lube. Put Rotor on RV shaft and stator fixed to base and rectify as a car alternator and compare input output to start experimentation.

Then use a Konehead approach on coils (if necessary) being the shorting release into cap method. But needed is to figure out a way in solid state to do that. Or TV (transverter) diode plugs each coil to a common ring buss. On low VOLTAGE all the WIRE leads must be same length to VALANCE currents to common connection.

If you mount a timing disc with trigger magnets bolted to the shaft, and this while spinning tripping hall effects or reed switches on a plate which can rotate and be lockable, and these halls or reeds on the plate in turn trip a solid state relay or mosfet then you can adjust it easy to pulse out only at the point in sine wave you choose and then can make it "non reflective" to the RV prime mover.

Its not that hard to make a timing disc with trigger magnets in it and bolt it to any off-shelf motor's shaft - the first picture below here is of a Acetal disc with small neo magnets imbedded in it that trip some hall effects which then turn on-off a big mosfet...

this photo is from the electric lawnmower. Anyone you know with a drill press and a hole saw (like carpenters use to drill-out doorknob holes in doors) could make the disc in a couple minutes from a plastic cutting-board, then you can press in how many magnets you need (maybe just two at 180degrees for 3400rpm AC RV)around its rim - and then surround the disc with hall effect(s) for the timing-control as shown - these shown imbedded in the rim of a black plastic ABS plumbing cap that rotates around the disc while it spins like distributor cap in car:

 

Big solid state DC relay with 9V battery supplying current for the Hall effect "trigger" side: For AC, you will just need TWO (or four) relays, (or transistors or mosfets) one for pos pulse and one for neg pulse.

You can use something like this for both the output of the alternator/generator side, and also for the prime mover side too, using it to pulse-in a AC sine wave in controlled manner now since you can control pulse-width (and amps) by distance of hall effect from trigger magnet in disc, and/or you can use double-switching, with one at HI of coil, and one at LO, and have overlap control pulse-width. (AKA "H" switching)

Nice thing and simple thing, is when you bolt it to shaft, it is always in perfect synch, and always will be, with rotation of motor so you can do anything you want manipulating that sine wave with timing discs. Also since you will be in the RV prime mover more or less switching "alternating DC" power into coils, this means you can include recovery-circuit too, to save back emf/recoil into caps and then into load but that is other subject.

-end

Test Cores for drag & eff% Test for resonance at x Speed y power Z
Frequency, saturate L release to C, discharge C in load non reflective to L.

Since system is not OPEN the prediction is magnetic intensity and
Voltages will be 10x to 20x standard Open field Konemotor

But we can have a non-acquainted for PMAs (permanent magnet alternators) over [magnetic] saturation of the cores. If not should stick onto the shaft of your RV prime mover, then just turn it "as is" and see how it fills a DC capacitor with a FWBR across its output so you make DC from it, then try resistive loads on it too, always watch what it does to prime mover input amps and keep records and tables of different resistances and prime mover effects.

Or make it so it makes a nice AC sine wave that you can run another
(2nd) RV prime mover on, then once you get that working, disconnect
And hook to the prime mover turning it and then you have a looper.

-end

RV PM using all three phases

IMO the RV does not need this secondary motor being used as the generator.
 If you have only one phase being worked and the other is resonating why are you not using this energy? This is because if you have current resonating back and forth on the resonant side you just put a heavy load in series with this and it might just need a slight tune but nothing is being wasted.

Switching the RV on and off is one way of doing this but it just shows that
there is a lot of energy being pumped around  the resonate phases that can
hold the RPM for a short time, but too me I would not go down this road.

If you put a transformer in a series with the caps that are in the resonating
circuit being its secondary side with very low resistance and keep a load on
the output it will drive something for free. First see where a simple series connection can be placed and find what load and cap values are needed.

-end

If considering using this driver circuit for an Adams type concept. Note: when dealing with Adams motors etc you must switch both the positive and the negative together and at the same time, or you will never find O-U. You need two batteries or a capacitor network to do anything properly

OU drive circuit by Phil wood

If driving the RV by the ideas above there will be the option of a motor generator in one with the 3phases used. The Adams motor worked along these line also, where there was a natural attraction too the magnets which generated the current so then this energy was used too energize the core just enough too allow the magnet too pass, and then your BEMF was the free return.

Drive circuit

This is an O-u drive circuit that can be used for Adams or F&P motors or any single type phase motor. This circuit as simple as it could ever be for anyone too duplicate. So there are no fancy resonance coils or PWM (pulse width modulation) control. This is as simple as they get. There will be some type of speed adjustment with the Tuning pot and this when adjusted correctly will spin some O-U performances.

The two 1000Uf caps are where the energy is stored, and when tuned right the motor will be running off these directly and not the battery. Just a thought too, the cap voltage rating would be best at 50volts.

Opinions and theory on the driver circuit.

Hectors

The driver circuit is not Axial like a Muller type. This being more Adams alike
the critical element is how you pulse the COIL and recover the CEMF and power factor into a single unified transformed vector were Gain is acquired
from ambient energy, electron spin & magneto thermal energy using
the PM Field as energy source itself.

The RV compilations are quite informative and add up to a universal justification of why OU is attained. As in a Solid state function you need the LC of the proper type, and a means to pulse it to (not over) saturation and a means to recover the CEMF pulse into a Capacitor in semi resonant mode.

Where such, the capacitor charges logarithmically from a virtual maximal amperage shorted coil. As such coil "opens" up Turns on by turning off and discharges half wave into capacitor.

A properly tuned coil will thermally cool down and energy OUT will
exceed energy in by 1.618 theoretical logarithmic gain over a Virtual
dipole (radiant energy device) Amperage = 0 as voltage charge is
maximal in JOULE potential within semi resonant charged capacitor
(max voltage) within a given farad value.

-end

Phils perspective

That is partly true regarding the Farads of a capacitor but the voltage rating of this same component is the main key. Once you push past the first 90deg phase current shift of a capacitor which is a linear fashion, the acceptance of further energy is much faster. So with my circuits I like too keep a partly charged state in a capacitor so it is open and ready for any inrush.

Then when discharging we only allow a set amount of stored energy out, so it
doesn't take our full potential down completely. .With this the voltage threshold is held by the main battery source and from there on, all motor operation is powered from the capacitor storage and collection where the capacitor can not go under our battery voltage rating.

As I have demonstrated too the so called professor's (W@nkers) The resonance plays a part, but it is the understanding that a capacitor has many hidden truths were you play by its rules. Once you have charged a capacitor too let's say just past its half way voltage rating, it will accept any further energy with little resistance.

With the capacitor characteristic we get full current and voltage from the first pulse delivery output, being opposite and equal too it's charging phenomena. Then we stop this pulse near half way, so our capacitor is still active and past its main 90deg phase shift. Now it is ready for its next charge with little resistance.

A little dangerous but easily done is where you for example have a 1000UF cap at 300volts as your tank then just drive a DC motor under load with a simple pulsing circuit that redirects all BEMF into this capacitor of the correct polarity, and where you run a load directly of this capacitor where it just can't pull the voltage down more than half way of the capacitor voltage rating.

Before you know it, there is a free ride with another motor doing the same amount of work.if you get smart and build another circuit on this top end motor but pulse from the cap, you then get another BEMF that can be sent
too the original motor source





 

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