The one only proper answer is as above. All our DRJ^s uses ceramic rings for insulation, to withstand temps and run for a long time. To this, they are not 2 cycle, but continous vortex. Had heard probably about Wankel rotary engines? Mazda is also using them for Rx models.

Zane & others,

Timer and its modifications.

First, a few words about this timer project:

I designed it for general use to switch any type & size of load.
Only the timer, the interphase circuit, a 12V power supply and a suitable relay is needed.

When I first got the idea that a timer would be desirable, I had basically two options:

Design my own from scratch, or buy a ready made one which most likely would not have the functions I wanted.

Considering the cost of a dedicated timer design, I looked around to see what was available.
Even after a thorough and rather lengthy search, I could NOT find a timer which would do what I wanted!
There are large number of timers available (some very cheap) but they ALL need to be modified and require to be interphased with the circuit(s) to be switched.

To cut a long story short: 
Of the large number of timers I looked at, this one (the one in this project ) won hands down!
It runs on a single AA battery.
A good quality Alkaline cell lasts for several years!  (my own experience)
It counts UP, DOWN and has a MEMORY function.

BUT, please note that the TIMER section is NOT tied to the CLOCK function and thus this project is NOT for programmed timing events!
(There are plenty of ready made units available for that purpose!)

Modifying the TIMER:

Since it is not easy to explain (or understand a verbal only explanation), I have attached some pictures which show the details.

1.  Open the timer.  Be careful not to break the 4 ‘hooks’ which clip the two halves together!
2.  Remove (un-solder) the 2 wires to the piezo buzzer and the 2 battery wires.
3.  Lay the timer face down on a flat surface and remove the 7 screws holding the circuit board. 
4.  After carefully removing the board, DO NOT touch any of the contacts (particularly those of the display!) and keep the box in the same (horizontal) position, otherwise all the buttons will fall out!
5.  The ferrite core coil wrapped in yellow tape (and the transistor next to it) you see in the picture named “ECU timer pcb-top” is the buzzer driver.
(the coil ‘transforms’ the low battery voltage to HIGH to drive the buzzer)
It is this buzzer driver signal we need but we cannot make a direct connection because that would upset its operation.
Isolation is achieved by adding a separate winding of 6 – 10 turns to this coil.

6.  To add this secondary winding, you need to lift up the coil a bit from the board, or, leave it in the same position but you need to remove enough of the hot-melt glue under it to enable those 6 – 10 turns of thin wire to be wound.
(If you wish, you can remove the coil from the board, wind the extra coil on it and then re-fit it.  This way it is easier to fit the extra winding but the whole job takes a bit longer.)

If you have some very thin, insulated ‘hook-up’ wire, you can wrap THAT around the coil and, after locking it in place, (with ‘hot melt’ glue again!?) bring out the ends!
(make sure the wires are long enough!)

One end of this added coil is connected to the jumper wire (to the right of the coil in the picture “ECU timer pcb-top”) and brought out of the box.
This (black wire in the picture) is connected to Ground (-) on the interphase pcb.
The other end of this coil (red wire) goes (through C5) to the base of transistor Q1.

7.  The third wire to be fitted as per picture “ECU timer wire solder”.

Note the black line: it indicates where to drill the 0.8 – 1 mm hole.
The wire is soldered to the pad next to it.
Don’t apply too much solder to this joint. 
(there is not much room between the pcb and the buttons)

This wire (light blue in the picture) is connected to C1/R1 on the timer interphase pcb.

To sum it up: 
Only 3 wires are coming out of the timer and are connected as described above.
(If you don’t need/want the noise from the buzzer, disconnect or remove the wires to it!
The battery will last longer!)

The above detailed description might give an impression of complexity but in reality the modifications are simple and easy, albeit somewhat time consuming!

Have fun!

Best regards,
Les Banki




 

Glory be Les!
                 What a wonderful smile I have, as I have just now started reading through your downloads maticulously I am extremely satisfied with your contributions here.

It also is very clear how much work needs to be done to catch up with you and your knowlege.

Thanks
Zane

KC
You don't sound like a nice man,usually crooks think everybody is a crook?

Keep your wallet in your pocket and your eyes on these boys,

WE shall see!!

Chet

...probably because hardly anyone has tried. Where are the failed replications in this case?? Don't assume everyone else is going to try it. One thing i have learned since the dawn of the Internet is there are not millions of people doing anything out of the ordinary. You can count on one hand how many will try anything new.

bolt
I sent you a private message.
Did you get it.
If you dont want to discuss it just let me know.
gsm

The demonstration looks quite impressive to me ... however, I have been fooled before so must admit to being quite skeptical ... having run small engines on 100% HHO before, I note that the "sound" the engine is making is not quite what I would have expected ... an engine run on just HHO tends to have sort of a hollow sound to it instead of the manly "roar" this one appears to be making ...

there is a VERY simple way to validate this ... cork the exhaust of the engine ... if its running on just HHO, the engine will continue to run, though will labor a bit ... when running on just HHO, there is so little exhaust pressure and volume that it can easily escape from the crankcase vent system so the exhaust can be corked ...

another thing that would go a long way toward convincing me would be a simple head temperature and/or exhaust temperature reading with a IR temp probe ... an engine run on just HHO will only produce head/exhaust temps in the 200F range, not the 600-700F range common with petrol ...

so while I am very impressed with the demonstration Oliver and Valention have shown us, I need a little more hard evidence to be a believer ... I want to believe, but I have been fooled by tricksters before and am highly skeptical ...