To browser these website, it's necessary to store cookies on your computer.
The cookies contain no personal information, they are required for program control.
  the storage of cookies while browsing this website, on Login and Register.

Storing Cookies (See : ) help us to bring you our services at . If you use this website and our services you declare yourself okay with using cookies .More Infos here:
If you do not agree with storing cookies, please LEAVE this website now. From the 25th of May 2018, every existing user has to accept the GDPR agreement at first login. If a user is unwilling to accept the GDPR, he should email us and request to erase his account. Many thanks for your understanding

User Menu

Custom Search

Author Topic: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output  (Read 350088 times)

Offline Les Banki

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 82
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #405 on: May 12, 2011, 06:16:16 AM »
Thanks for your reply. Yes I do know that if the motor is running on pure HHO there is no need for any high energy plasma ignition, however there are those who are misting water or injecting water mist to supplement power and lower the amount of HHO required. For such motors high energy plasma ignition will be useful.

Yes, with water vapor injection (or water alone, NO HHO!!), I agree with your statement about the need for plasma ignition.

In 2005, a mechanic under the ‘screen name’ “s1r9a9m9”, had a car running on water.
NOT with HHO and water vapor, ONLY WATER!

Are you familiar with that story?

If not, I encourage you to download the 58 page document:
“Car_that_runs_on_tap_water_Plasma_Spark.pdf” written/compiled by Patrick Kelly.
(For some reason this document is no longer on his web site, nor is it included in his latest e-book.)
I have these documents but due to their large size, I cannot attach them here.
(Just do a Google search.  There are many sites offering downloads.)

Personally, I would not complicate things further with water vapor injection, for the following reason(s):
1.  Some people on this site are already complaining about the complexity of my
     published designs.
2.  Extra cost.

Besides, my set-up will produce WAY more additional power than the generator requires to run! 
I know some don’t believe this but so be it. 
I could not care less!

Just watch the video presented at the start of this thread.
I would say that generator used by Oliver & Valentin is rated at no more than 1800W.
I have a brand new generator sitting here….waiting!...rated at 9kW (8kW continuous)
Folks, we are talking several kW of excess power!
Get used to it.
Enough said.  (for now)

Best regards,
Les Banki

Offline KateDaring52

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 1
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #406 on: July 15, 2011, 10:44:38 AM »

Well, great work! You have helped me to improve my knowledge about this field. Thank you so much for sharing.

Watch Horrible Bosses Online Free

Offline Les Banki

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 82
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #407 on: July 17, 2011, 11:22:09 AM »
Hello ‘KateDaring52’

I see it was your first post.

It was also the first post since my last one here over two months ago!
(That just shows the level of interest for this subject!)

Thank you for the feedback.  I am glad you got something out of my ‘ravings’.


Some of you probably realize that the HEART of this (and I dare say most “free energy”) projects is the CONTROL ELECTRONICS.
(That is why I have put such an ENORMOUS effort and time into this, using my knowledge and skills.)

Perhaps you would like to know that since my last post I have COMPLETED the remaining electronic control designs for this project:

1.  A new phase control power supply with 2.4kW capacity for the 240V, 120 cell electrolyzer, complete with current limiter and unidirectional feedback.

2.  Optical level sensors & re-fill circuits for the electrolyzer and main tank.

3.  A very simple circuit which (with the help of the remote control supplied with the electric start generator) will start the engine automatically when the preset gas pressure is reached.

All that remains now is to ‘tidy up’ a couple of pcb layouts, order boards, assemble & connect the numerous circuits (modules) together and connect the generator!

I know that some readers here will (again!) complain about the complexity of it all!
(Particularly the ‘autorpm’ circuit.  It has the highest component count and its detailed circuit description is 10 pages!)

But, have you heard anyone complaining about the complexity of , say, a computer? 
Or a TV?
No-one cares as long as they WORK properly!
(But they sure are cursed when they malfunction!)

Generally, before complaining about “complexity”, one needs to consider the PERFORMANCE of such circuit(s).

For the first time, here is a brief summary of the performance you can expect of this

First, CORRECTLY set-up and ADJUST:

1.   Low voltage power supply outputs
3.   Electrolyzer current limit
4.   Water/electrolyte refill levels
6.   Engine IDLE speed
7.   Microphone sensitivity (detecting engine start)
8.   Time to reach correct RPM 
9.   Generator output (switching) FREQUENCY (50Hz)
10.  Automatic BATTERY CHARGER minimum & maximum limits

After that the only thing you need to do is:

Turn the generator key to the ON position, apply start-up power (from mains or battery/inverter) and stand back!

The sequence of events are as follows:

With 240V AC power applied to the entire system, the electrolyzer starts producing gas.
When the pressure reaches the pre-set level, the generator starts automatically.
As “engine has started” signal is detected, RPM starts to increase gradually over the adjusted  time period.
The generator’s output voltage/frequency is now increasing. 
When its FREQUENCY reaches 50Hz (at approx. 240V), a change-over POWER RELAY is used to disconnect the start-up supply and connect power to the system from the output of the generator.

In short, the generator is now powering EVERYTHING!!

All this is happening AUTOMATICALLY, without further intervention.

Wishful thinking?
Not at all!
Every stage is already working EXACTLY as intended.

Over the next few days I will publish the circuit diagrams, pcb layouts and circuit descriptions for the above mentioned designs, PLUS the ‘autorpm’ circuit which has been ‘ready’ for about 4 months.

Remember, you don’t have to understand all the technical details of the circuit descriptions to duplicate my work.
You could say that I have done all the work for you.  Just pay close attention to the details, try to avoid making mistakes and you will be fine.

Best regards,
Les Banki

Ps.  The 'autorpm' circuit is rather LARGE!
It needs 2 A3 sheets!
PCB layout will follow in a couple of days.

Offline bolt

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 929
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #408 on: July 17, 2011, 03:44:59 PM »

Les have no fear you are not alone! I am busy working on this also and currently i have mine working on propane 10% and  90% HHO so its cost a couple of cents a Kw to run. Not looped yet but might need more HHO. I have gone the software route i tell you roughly how it works. Hall device on flywheel sees every rev and fires to start on 100% LPG. After 900 rpm software tries to DIV 2 then checks if the engine still running. It can start on a can of plumber  propane. This overcomes starting and all the issues with HHO and no need for a kick start PSU. Once the software finds the correct phase it sets a flag in software and stores to memory so even if the engine stops and started again it knows what phase the engine is in if the CPU is still powered up. At 1000 rpm HHO turns on and currently i manually have to change the timing delayed for HHO. I am using 2 off 500 watt PC Supplies. I been writing and learning software to make Auto timing seek to run on any fuel from natgas, LPG, propane, methane, HHO or and gas mix with HHO.

At 2900 rpm the software starts to control the HHO by switching the PSU's and tries to stable around 3000 rpm. (mine is 50hz)  Control of HHO gives me load speed control but as emergency over speed at 3200 rpm the spark is suppressed instantly. This should halt a sudden speed up when a load is disconnected before gas loop has time to adjust. Later i have other things in mind like 1500 rpm economy mode. Will run at 25hz and much lower power for light loads like battery charging and of course is very much quieter and  less stress on the engine.

Offline Doctor No

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 262
    • NSPAP
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #409 on: July 19, 2011, 12:11:56 PM »
This topic as well others FE topic are practicaly dead, even when energy prices climb up. This all shows only how people passive are. When all comes to end, all what thay can afford yourself will be some winking.

Offline h2ocommuter

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 100
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #410 on: July 19, 2011, 11:52:54 PM »
Les, Bolt, Thank you both for continuing your works.
you are both my hero's.
you both have done such a great deal of work thanks is just a sample of what is necessary for an adequate sense of gratitude. :)

God Speed
With help like yours I will someday be a real h2ocommuter


Offline Doctor No

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 262
    • NSPAP
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 4 kW electrical output
« Reply #411 on: July 21, 2011, 05:43:53 PM »
Our system for home use with 3-4 kW electrical output will cost under 5.000 EUR (some 7.000 todays dollars).

Offline Les Banki

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 82
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #412 on: July 22, 2011, 10:44:04 AM »

As promised, attached is the pcb layout (in PDF only) for the ‘autorpm’.

Also attached is the ‘autostart’ circuit diagram, description and pcb layout files
(in PDF only)
Strangely, the ‘autostart’ circuit turned out to be the simplest part of the ECU!

While designing the ‘autorpm’ (a few months ago), it occurred to me that the engine could be made to start automatically.
But I ‘shelved’ the idea, not wishing to complicate things more than necessary.
Then, about two weeks ago, suddenly the idea was back again in my mind in all its “simplicity” and a couple of days later the circuit was ready!
So here it is.

Next up (in a few days) is the 240V phase control power supply with 2.4kW capacity.

Please note:
Pcb manufacturers need the original files which contain ALL the information they need. 
I simply don’t know how to attach or up-load the PFW (Protel For Windows) files, so I cannot attach them since this Forum does not accept the format (.pcb extension)
(Further, you  also need the PFW software to open these files.)

If any of you need the original PFW files, just PM me and I will email them to you.

I visited your web site and looked at what you are doing.
I hope you don’t mind if I make some comments.
They are NOT meant to criticize.
After all, most Forums are (or should be!) not only for “entertainment” but for exchange of ideas, sharing research results and learning.

Your approach differs in several ways from mine.
(That is what we call “designer’s choice”, I suppose.)
IMHO, you are complicating things considerably by trying to include hydrocarbon fuels.
You will find (just like I have) that this field (designing ECUs) is NOT for the faint hearted!
Usually, the only ones designing ECUs are design engineers working for engine manufacturers.

I certainly don’t envy you the task trying to do it the way you described it!
Good luck.  You will need it!

If your intention is to have a looped HydrOxy ONLY generator, I don’t see why you would bother with ANY hydrocarbon fuel.
In this, we have a MAJOR difference in our approach.

Since day one, I had/have this attitude:

You can call me a FANATIC when it comes to this.
I just don’t want to see a single drop of ANY hydrocarbon fuel anywhere in or near the engine!!
Not even for starting! 
I much prefer a battery/inverter combination for starting.
That way, I will NOT depend on the ‘oil boys’.


The other issue I wish to comment on applies to everyone.
NO exceptions.
It is about the METHOD of producing gas from water.

But first, I like to point out that most of the time we have used (and still use) the WRONG NAME for the gases derived from water.
No, I am NOT “nit-picking” or “splitting hairs”.
Does the name matter?
As you will see shortly, it does.

I suggest we clean up this mess.
I have already taken the first step by replacing ‘HHO’ with HydrOxy in all my articles.
Because the gas my set-up produces is NOT pure mono-atomic H+H+O but a combination of di-atomic and mono-atomic, H2 + O2 + H + O.

As everyone knows, water is: H2O

When split with DC current electrolysis, the gas is: H2 + O2
(Note that the devolved gases are in their di-atomic state ONLY.)
This gas has the LOWEST energy level. 
(About ¼ (25%) of the pure mono-atomic H+H+O.)

With PULSED DC electrolysis, we get “Brown’s Gas” or HydrOxy,
H2 + O2 + H + O, (di-atomic plus some mono-atomic gas.)
Its energy level varies with the ratio of di-atomic/mono-atomic gases but usually will be about twice (2X) the energy level of the H2 + O2 gas which is created with DC current. 

With RESONANCE (NOT electrolysis!), we should get ‘pure’ HHO (H+H+O).
It has the HIGHEST energy level. 
About 4X more than H2 + O2 (using DC current)

The importance of this should be obvious.

If not, let me illustrate it with a practical example which everyone can understand.

Let’s look at two (2) experimenters: “A” and “B”
Their set-ups are IDENTICAL, with ONE exception. 
Their electrolyzers (and the power supplies powering them) are DIFFERENT.
But they produce the SAME volume of gas.
Here comes the “weird” bit.

Experimenter “A” runs his generator 100% on WATER. 
PLUS other load.

Experimenter “B” needs to ADD hydrocarbon fuel.  He does not have ‘enough’ gas!

But, I repeat, they have the SAME VOLUME of gas!

So what is different?

“B” is using a LOW VOLTAGE, HIGH CURRENT DC POWER SUPPLY to power his electrolyzer.
Further, he has just a few cells in series, then, groups of these are in parallel.
That combination produces only H2 and O2 , di-atomic (molecular) gases!

“A” has a large number of cells in SERIES and uses HIGH VOLTAGE PULSED DC 
power supply.
His set-up produces H2 + O2 + H + O (di-atomic plus some mono-atomic gas).

From my short article titled “Running series cell electrolyzers on 50/60 Hz AC power”, here is a quote:

“It needs to be pointed out that in order to make QUALITY gas (HHO, Hydroxy, Brown’s Gas, etc.), PULSING is necessary.
George Wiseman has also pointed this out in his “Brown’s Gas Book Two” which he published many years ago.

Quote (from page 18):
“Power supply considerations

If we apply straight DC current to the electrolyzer, we find the oxygen and hydrogen devolving to their di-atomic state.  We get NO Brown’s Gas.

The electricity MUST be pulsed to an electrolyzer to produce Brown’s Gas; 120 cps is sufficient to produce Brown’s Gas, even 100 cps will work; so regular wall cycles will work.”
End quote.”

So, the ‘bottom line’ is: the HIGHER the mono-atomic (H+H+O) portion of the gas, the LESS the engine will need to run.

I wish to stress, once again, this is NOT a “fairy tale” story.
Over the years, several experimenters have found it to be correct.

There are two main requirements for running engines on water ONLY:
1.  Quality gas (a portion of it MUST be mono-atomic, H+H+O)
2.  Engine management

If these are ignored (or compromised), it is most unlikely that you will succeed in running engines 100% on water.
Instead, you will end up with a fancy “booster”.

This also explains why so few in the past have succeeded using water as the only fuel.

If you have problems accepting the above explanation, I suggest you watch the video with Oliver & Valentin again.  Closely.

Pay attention to their cell AND its power supply on the trolley.
What do you see??
A LARGE capacity VARIAC (AC mains supply).
On its moving arm you see a heath sink (probably for the rectifier power diodes).
Next to the VARIAC is what looks like a power resistor bar (current limiter?).
Even without knowing all the details of their set-up, we can safely conclude that it is an un-filtered HV power supply, PULSING at 100Hz.  (twice the mains frequency)

IMO, that is one of the 3 reasons why they have a looped, running system with excess power.
The second is their SERIES cell.  (Anton cell)
A bit crude but it works.

Best regards,
Les Banki

Offline gyulasun

  • without_ads
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4137
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #413 on: July 22, 2011, 07:46:54 PM »

Please note:
Pcb manufacturers need the original files which contain ALL the information they need. 
I simply don’t know how to attach or up-load the PFW (Protel For Windows) files, so I cannot attach them since this Forum does not accept the format (.pcb extension)
(Further, you  also need the PFW software to open these files.)


Hi Les,

Thank you for all the info.

 I did some search on the web and found ExpressPCB, a free PCB layout software (has got schematic editor too) and its output file has a format with  .pcb extension. Hopefully it can open the Protel pcb file too (it has to, lol).  Here is a link:

On this website:  when you do a search for file extension pcb it gives 11 records, see here and scroll down: 

I suggest zipping the pcb file(s) and then you can upload them here, files with zip extensions are allowed.  The shareware Total Commander file manager has a built-in zip/unzip facility, there are other zip file managers of course like WinZip etc.

rgds,  Gyula

Offline Les Banki

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 82
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #414 on: July 27, 2011, 07:20:14 AM »
Hi Gyula,

While I thank you for your efforts looking into how to attach PFW files, considering the LOW level of interest here in not just my work but the topic of ‘water fuel’ in general, I will leave things as they are.

It is NOT worth my time and effort to publish the original PFW files when no-one needs them!

By the way, I am fully aware of the PCB software you mentioned as well as several others. 
I even have some of them but I tell you, I would be CRAZY to switch from Protel to ANY of them!
The reason is that in my experience (and other’s!), particularly the early versions (1. & 2) of  PROTEL is superior to the others, even the most ‘modern’ ones!

The ENTIRE Protel (PFW) schematic & pcb software is less than 10MB!!! 
No, that is NOT a misprint!
(It was supplied on just 6 Floppy Discs! 
As you know the capacity of a 3.5” Floppy is only 1.44MB)

“THEY” (whoever they are!) just can’t write software like that any more!

Further, do you have any idea about the size of these Protel pcb files?
Just have a look at my ‘autorpm’ pcb layout, which is the LARGEST in this project.
File size:  40KB!
Again, it is NOT a misprint. 
It is 40KB.

Now, compare that to the PDF conversion (which has FAR from all the info):  258KB!

If I understand you correctly, you suggest compressing (Zip) the files only for the sake of attaching them here.
Personally, I dislike working with compressed files.
Enough said.


By checking the number of downloads of files I have attached, I can see that some of you who downloaded them are NOT paying proper attention!
For example:  I indicated that the ‘autorpm’ circuit is LARGE and it requires 2 sheets of A3.
So, ‘autorpm1’ AND ‘autorpm2’ makes up the COMPLETE “autorpm” circuit.

I see that while the ‘autorpm1’ was downloaded 50 times, ‘autorpm2’ was downloaded only 42 times!
That means that some of you DO NOT HAVE the complete circuit!

I have attached the 2.4kW HV phase control power supply circuit diagram, description and the two (2) pcb layouts (PDF).
The reason for two boards is isolation.
HV (AC and DC) on one board and the low voltage control circuit on the other.

Note that the isolation is performed by a 20A Hall effect current sensor.  (see description)

Next up is the optical (IR) water/electrolyte level sensors and re-fill electronics!

Have fun!

Best regards,
Les Banki

Offline Les Banki

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 82
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #415 on: August 01, 2011, 05:38:50 AM »

First, here is a brief summary of what I wrote elsewhere about engine management:

It may not be obvious to the average person but engine management was NEVER  “simple” for ANY fuel!

Generally, complexity is hidden from view by the ‘black box’ approach.

Average replacement cost of a “modern” car ECU is around $1200 to $1500!!

This alone indicates two things:
1.  ECUs ARE fairly complex
2.  BIG TIME rip off!

And yet, in car engines, piston(s) position information is DIRECTLY available from the CAM shaft.
For small engines, there is no such “luxury”!
The cam shaft is (usually) NOT accessible from the outside of the engine!

For CORRECT operation, we NEED a signal from the CAM shaft, NOT the crank shaft!
(Despite all arguments to the contrary!)

This fact makes our task a bit more complicated.

On the other hand, our ‘new’, FAST burning fuel (HydrOxy) makes ignition point setting a LOT simpler than for ANY other fuel!

Here is a quote from my “Ignition system for small engines 2” article:

“It needs to be pointed out that the ignition system for HydrOxy ONLY (not just a booster) will be very different from ignition systems for hydrocarbon fuels.
It will be significantly simpler.

There will be NO “speed mapping”, NO “load mapping”, NO retard/advance change with engine RPM,  NO rich/lean mixture setting, NO cold start setting, NO “knock sensor”, NO fuel/air temperature sensor, NO Oxygen sensor, etc., etc.,
(“modern” engines are full of all that rubbish!)
There will be NO need for high energy sparks, multiple sparks, etc.
Further, there will be NO such thing as UNBURNED fuel remaining in the cylinders!!”
End quote.

Don’t forget that my ignition control design is based on my CDI module.

Keep in mind that its power requirement is only 6W (maximum) at 6000RPM!
(At lower RPM, it is less.  See further details in the circuit description.)
It is triggered by my ignition control circuit.

If you intend using only some sections of my ECU design, that is OK, EXCEPT trying to use an old, power hungry (60 – 120W) Kettering type ignition with a power transistor switch, you are on your own!
(In that case, you have to not only ADD your own driver interphase to drive your switch but also have to provide an additional power supply capable of supplying 5-10A, just to create ignition sparks!  This would also require a MUCH larger power transformer.)

My CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) design has been published more than once since its release about 3 years ago but NOT in this thread.
That means most of you will not have it.

Since this Forum does not provide ‘project folders’ (to my knowledge), my attached files are ‘all over the place’ and rather difficult to find!  (so I am told)
I am now looking for other options/Forum(s) to publish everything in ONE place.

In the mean time I will continue to attach files here.

The test oscillator (4046 VCO test osc.sch) is for setting up & adjusting the ignition/injection control circuits.
IMO, a CDI system is essential for this kind of projects.
So here it is, all attached.

Best regards,
Les Banki


Offline advancedynamics

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 3
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #417 on: August 24, 2011, 10:54:32 AM »
Oliver and Valention, 2 users from the forum, showing their selfrunning HHO system powering a 400 Watt incandescent lamp for the first time in public....Belt Conveyors

Offline Mark69

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 277
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #418 on: August 24, 2011, 02:18:02 PM »
any new info yet?  Les, Bolt, any updates????  Keep up the great work!

Offline Les Banki

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 82
Re: Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output
« Reply #419 on: August 30, 2011, 02:04:57 AM »
‘Mark69’ (& others),

New info?
Yes and no.
By now you should realize that my ECU design is COMPLETE and has been for some time.

The last part was/is the water/electrolyte level sensor & pump driver circuits which are actually not mounted inside the ECU box but are attached to the electrolyzer.

So what are you guys actually waiting for??

All of you could have duplicated my work as I was publishing the details of the design.
Or perhaps you are all waiting for yet another “proof of concept”??
Wasn’t the video by Oliver & Valentin convincing enough?
How many more are needed before some of you will wake up and realize that this technology is REAL?

Am I being too harsh?
I don’t think so.

Just have a good look at this Forum and THIS thread.
What do you see?

I must admit there is SOME interest, judging by the number of downloads of my files.
But how many are actually working on this kind of project is hard to say.
If there are some, they are silent.
In a way, I don’t blame them.
Just re-read the first few pages of this thread and you will see what I mean.

Never mind.

I have joined the newly created (and properly moderated) ‘watercarTWO’ Forum, in order to publish all my project files/details in ONE place, without interference, abuse or negativity.
I have a 100MB Folder there which is being ‘populated’ rapidly.
I post there as well.

Here is some info which may interest some of you.
I have attached a picture of the generator which is used for this set-up, before all the un-needed parts were ‘stripped’ from it!

It is a Ducar LX9000.
It has a 420cc, 4-stroke engine
Its output is rated at 8kW peak, 7kW continuous.

It has electric & pull start.
It was supplied with 2 remote controls AND a 9AH starter battery!
(When using the remote control, the starter engages for 3 seconds.)

At the time we un-packed the generator a few months ago, we connected the wires to the start battery and fitted the cover.
Cranked it once with the key, then with the remote control – was working fine.
When I tried it again about 3 weeks ago, I found the battery dead as the proverbial
“door nail”!
It measured only 2.86V!
Yet, the ignition key was in the OFF position all that time.

In other words, something has totally drained the battery despite the key being in the OFF position.
I managed to fully revive that battery with my HV capacitive battery charger.
Then, with the ignition key in the OFF position, I connected the battery again with a current meter in series.
I measured 8mA.
No wonder the poor battery was completely drained!

I suspect that other generator brands/models may have the same problem.
My advise is that if you get an electric start generator, don’t connect the battery until you are ready to use it!
I can only assume that the battery is charged when the generator is running so it won’t go flat during normal use.
Still, I consider this to be a design ‘flaw’.
So, again, be aware of this.

I also have two LARGE, 12V, 150Ah batteries for running a 1700W inverter for starting the system.

For the ignition/injection control circuit, I needed to know the number of revolutions during cranking, so I performed some “dry run” tests.  (cranking ONLY, NO fuel)

By the way, the starter motor is rated at 12V – 0.4kW  (~34A current)
Using the remote control to crank the engine with the supplied 9AH battery, I measured a peak (in-rush) current of 126A!
The number of crank shaft revolutions were 24 for the 3 seconds cranking.

With one of the large 150AH batteries, I got 28 revolutions for the 3 seconds of cranking.
Peak (in-rush) current was 196A!!
(You can read about WHY the number of revolutions are important in my
“Circuit description for Electronic Ignition V.5”)

Best regards,
Les Banki