Hi kukulcangod 

I do not understand what you mean when you as what am I using for the inertial force?

It is probably me being thick again!! 

Glad you like the design though. I need to re-design my web site and section it off because it has now too many pictures on just one page, when I do the Torbay section I will post all the Gcode files(Milling machine format) and dimension files so people can have a go at building it themselves.

Regards

Sean.

Hi All:

Sean the design is so convenient , you can regulate everything,  being see through also lets you see  more accurately how to do so.Is just an exquisit design.

 I really hope it works that way , but what are you using for inertial force? what type of flywheel?, I think that is also a critical part, in your design I see that it can be a rised wheel which will allow you to keep seeing the adjustments.
 
 Is definitely a good sign that is running as expected at least by hand, can wait to see results,because with ceramics I'm arranging the magnets like yours ,hopefully this time they will be strong enough to run the flywheel, and also will proof if we have a runner or not.

 Thank you for posting your great work , is very inspirational

Good Luck

Ouch 16 of those becomes expensive. Also I wanted to stay away from steel bearings as they are close to the magnets.
I have used brass everywhere so far and the only steel in the whole machine is the main center bearing.

I have sourced some 15mm Solid Acrylic Rod that I will chop up for wheels and then lathe some brass rod down to create the bush inserts for the center.
Also I reckon if I say chop the 15mm wheels to say 6mm thick and then lathe them down on the outside to say 2mm will create less friction on the contact point with the top hat.

Thanks for the link though, handy for other things.

Regards

Sean.

   Hi Sean, why couldn't you use a non-flanged bearing as a wheel.  This one is very
close with a 1/2" OD and 3/16" ID.  If you really want minimum friction, this one would
do it!  Kinda spendy tho!  Stainless steel/ceramic hybrid.  Could make all the difference
between working and not!

http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&id=2854&n=SR3C-2RS_#3

                                          Glenn

I have setup a link at http://www.overunity.org.uk called Other Torbay Replications and populated the page with photos and movie links from the two Torbay threads in these forums.

If I have placed your images up on the site and you do not want them up there, then please let me know and I will remove, just thought it would be nice to collate the pictures from this huge thread into one place.

Thank Gawd for WIFI in hotel rooms!

Regards

Sean.

I have setup a link at http://www.overunity.org.uk called Other Torbay Replications and populated the page with photos and movie links from the two Torbay threads in these forums.

If I have placed your images up on the site and you do not want them up there, then please let me know and I will remove, just thought it would be nice to collate the pictures from this huge thread into one place.

Thank Gawd for WIFI in hotel rooms!

Regards

Sean.

on the contrary I feel honoured to be included, good work with the page.

Hi Everyone!
This is my first time to post on Magnet Motor from Argentina 2
My hoby is electricity and magnetism for many years.
Then I read about W.Torbay Transgenerator.
Many years ago I had idea about (something close to W.T.Transgenerator),
Magnetic motor, powered by ROTATING STATOR.
As with magnets, we know, that whatewer we do with them, they always
tend to find "parking spot" e.a. lockup position, as long as magnets are in stationary
(balanced) position. Torbay did overcome this by introducing unbalance in
magnet`s system. When I look at his motor, I see stator magnets and arms as a ROTOR.
What I see till now, nobody was able to figure sequence of raising and lowering
stator arms to achive continuos rotation. I dont think that is a problem. When I
look at W.T.video, I guess what is hiden in the base. Main rotor have another
plate attached to it and on that plate is another magnet which is lifting stationary
stator arms. You can see magnets on stators lower arms clearly when they
are lifted. Think what we have till now. Stator is constantly creating space which
is immidiately trying to be occupied by leading edge of movable rotor.
Well, problem is how to lower stator arm into approaching rotor`s path. Remember magnet in base? This magnet is key to continuos rotation. It may be mounted down on plate, but may be embeded right into rotor shaft. This choice depend on stator`s arm design. When stator arm is kicked out of ring, slot in rotor cap alow it
to fully raise, whell on top of stator arm  LOCKS into grove for an instant and then forces arm  down in position,with downward slot ONE POSITION before leading edge of rotor. You see, that arm going down is working against weary weak force field of rotor. Trick is, that moment BEFORE arm reaches low position, Next stator arm is  forced up into now open rotor cap slot, whell locks, arm goes down and process continues.Many of you will ask question:"why we lock arm into rotor cap"?
Guess,when arm is kicked up, there is no force to hold it there, arm will
fall down and we do not want this to happen.
As I mentioned, magnet wich lifts arm and downward pressure from rotor cap needs
force. Did you notice from where this force is generated?
Did you notice, when stator arm is forced down, it is LOCKED in down position by
rotor cap and then gradually lifted (pushed) for 3 stator magnets lengths, against
rotor cap, which is gradually sloped UPWARDS. This upward force is helping rotor
to turn smothly. Where is upward force comming from? Yes, from N-N repulsion.
Torbay mentioned N-N configuration, but fields will be much stronger if S-S
configuration is used.
   I hope this post will help many of you who spend countless hours traying to figure out this Torbay motor. Many people were wery close to acheive building W.T.
device especially OMNIBUS and MRD10.
  Go people, this device is so close.
  As for myself, I am building this motor and I will post and share my progress on
this Forum.
   
   God bless
     Frank 

Hi ClaNZeR
You mentioned problem with lowering stator arm into path of approaching
leading edge of rotor.
I think, that is no problem at all. Remember, IF YOU LIFT THE STATOR ARM with leading edge of rotor, then you will not be able to lower it against second rotor magnet. System must be unballanced at all time, otherwise, "dead spot".
Lets review this problem again. Look at the stator as a ROTOR. As opening is
moving one space, rotor is following it. To lift stator arm, use magnet in repulsion
mode mounted two spaces before first rotor magnet (one on second plate under
stator plane). Now you have TWO  spaces to lift stator arm, then to lower it.
Magnet goes up into opening in rotor cap, it is holded up or locked up
for length of time, till length if one magnet passes by, then it is dropped down
right into space not yet occupied by first rotor magnet. I think that is most critical
part of motor. You lower stator magnet right into space NOT yet occupied by
first rotor magnet. To do that, dont use anything than weight of arm and help from
downward slot in the rotor cap. When this magnet reach lower position, first rotor
magnet have ONE MORE magnet lenght to continue to chase rotor. When rotor magnet travel one more length, new stator magnet is allready down in the front of it.
I think, that is only way to make this motor working. Dont use any pair of magnets
in attraction  mode. Remember, stator must be down BEFORE first rotor magnet
reaches it.
By the way, did you see sticky tape magnet on the rotor?
Well, it has enough power to hold utility bill on the refrigerator door. Magnets used
on rotor_well it could be 3 of them, mayby 4 or 5. So, does not matter how close
you mount them together, rotor will allways try to get locked on lobes of magnetic
fields between them. So, stick tape magnet over them, facing stator. you will see
that lobes almost disappear. That means, rotor has nice smooth ride, chassing the
stator.
God bless
Frank

Hi All

         In one more month one of my argentinian friends will  try to find out more about Torbay at his city , appararently the goverment help was just not enough and he is stuck as well...........but need to confirm it somehow.

I guess everyone is like, I'm busy and ..........I need the right stuff, like the half moon magnet being the right polarity and powerfull enough to move everything around

I'm still at it.............let's see who get it to run first

Cheers..........see ya at the beach!!!

Hello, this is my first post to overunity. I am fasinated by magnets and what they can do. I have come across this thread and the videos and see some interesting things.
1) partial replications show that in principle you can get the rotor to move to the unoccuppied space if a stator is lifted out of place.
2) non of the replication attempts I have seen have lids on them.
3) uncertainity about how to move the stators.

I am also skeptical about the large base but here are my thoughts.

1) The stators to rotor are opposing north faces
2) The stators are lifted by a rod on the bottom of the rotor(this is seen on the video as a white circle. This is also why the stator wood blocks are cut at an angle.
3) the lid is for pushing down the magnets when the stator is in the middle of the rotor magnet (roughly)
4) The stators are placed close enough together as to act as one magnet- 3 stators at a time

I will be trying a replication and will send pictures. Don't hold your breath though I am a slow worker.

A question.
Can I use curved steel/iron as the face of the magnets rather than curve the magnets themselves? I am thinking of putting a bunch of small neo's north faces to the curved steel maximizing the number of magnets to limit any hot spots in the steel face. I am thinking of doing this both for the stator and the rotor. This should make the steel face also north, yes?

emitremmah - hammertime