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Author Topic: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42  (Read 26185 times)

Offline detrix42

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Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« on: March 15, 2010, 08:36:46 PM »
Newman motor replica #3. 

I still have some bugs to work out.  I am not ready to make a video yet.

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Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« on: March 15, 2010, 08:36:46 PM »

Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2010, 08:49:57 PM »
I added springs to hold the contacts to the commutator. (see picture) this was looking real good but then the copper contacts really gripped the electrical tape in between segments.  This is causing alot of drag.  I lightened the springs, and put fiberglass tape in between the segments. this helped but not enough.   I only have 1 pound of copper wire on each frame, and according to Newman's theory, more wire will create a larger/stronger magnetic field.  So I will strive to get more wire.  I would like to see 5lbs of wire on each side.  Unfortunately I can only afford about 2lbs of wire every 2 weeks.  I am using the wire from my 1st motor to go on one side, so I will only need one more pound to start. 

Oh the joy of experimenting on a shoestring budget.
Cheers!

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Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2010, 03:53:26 AM »
Well, the bicycle wheel commutator will not work. Primarily due to the electrical tape. The copper contact seems to "grip" it.  I believe that in order for the bicycle wheel commutator to work, I will need 5 to 10 pounds of wire on my coils.

In a mad dash, I put the previous 6 inch wooden commutator on.  Took some work to change the contact points, but it actually turned.  It turned slower than expected, but the rotor is heavier, and the coils not as condensed as those in my previous "pipe" coils. 

I am not sure if I should make a video yet. I want it to work a bit better.  But if you all want me to I will.

Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2010, 04:06:09 PM »
update: Here is a pic of motor #3 with the old wooded commutator.  I took a 14sec. video and wanted to post it here, but its 1Mb in size.  but here is a pic:


Offline jadaro2600

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2010, 11:08:42 PM »
Good work, you may try a different approach to high voltage source though.

You have an absurd number of 9 volt batteries there...  it looks like your source is 378 volts?

You may just try using a joule thief to supply the voltage and discharge via the motor circuit.  Honestly, the switching on the commutator could be causing minimal current to flow...if the motor current usage is below 100ma, then this could easily be handled by a joule thief with a small capacitor rectified off the Collector to ground ..the motot circuit could go here.

Could you post a digram of the circuit you're using currently?

That many 9v batteries must be a budget constraint.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2010, 11:08:42 PM »
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Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2010, 01:18:41 AM »
Good work, you may try a different approach to high voltage source though.

You have an absurd number of 9 volt batteries there...  it looks like your source is 378 volts?

You may just try using a joule thief to supply the voltage and discharge via the motor circuit.  Honestly, the switching on the commutator could be causing minimal current to flow...if the motor current usage is below 100ma, then this could easily be handled by a joule thief with a small capacitor rectified off the Collector to ground ..the motot circuit could go here.

I am not familiar with a joule thief.  I shall look into it, but if you have know of a web site that has this information, please post it here.

Could you post a digram of the circuit you're using currently?

That many 9v batteries must be a budget constraint.

I shall draw something up. As for the batteries, yes that number was a budget constraint until yesterday. I found a dollar store that sells two packs for $1USD.  There are lots of dollar stores around. So its not much of a budget issue anymore.  I was thinking of going with 6v lantern batteries, but that takes up so much more space. One day I still might.

Today I bought a wooden plate. It looked round when I bought it. Drilled a hole in the center, and spun it.  Nope. I will still try to use it. 

Now to look into the joule thief.

Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2010, 05:31:53 AM »
Ok, here is a very basic schematic of how I have things wired.

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2010, 05:31:53 AM »
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Offline jadaro2600

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2010, 10:38:01 PM »
There is a thread area in this forum specifically for the "Joule Thief" circuit.  There are also numerous youtube videos on how to make one, and there are many variants as well.

I post this schematic to give you a basic idea.  When the commutator is not in contact, then the circuit below activates and begins boosting voltage across the Cap bridging the source on the right. this voltage can be huge relative to the source.

When the commutator is in contact and a path is formed, the voltage discharges as well as current from the regular source.  The diode keeps the built up voltage from returning to the positive terminal, and thus creates the illusion of a high voltage source which as much current as would normally flow through at normal voltage.  You may also want to use a transistor which isn't small - something which can switch fast, but sink heat if needed - pay close attention to the resistance to base when using a 9V source.

Thee circuit is called a blocking oscillator - it will only work when the commutator is not in contact ( between switching ).  This is when transformer action takes place, and the cap on the right charges to a high voltage.  You can also test the circuit in stand alone mode.

Feel free to post any question on the joule thief thread ( the main one has like 12 thousand posts, so, asking all the relevant questions in one reply may have better results.

note: the use of a 'secondary' as your source will provide you with voltage, but almost no current, the schematic below is similar to but not the same as gadgetmall's 'over-unity' circuit he posted to charge ultra-caps.  I would not reccomend attaching a secondary unless it is just one or two turns of wire attached to a LED for the purposes of determining if the circuit is on or not.

Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2010, 11:55:25 PM »
@jadaro2600:
   I am looking into the joule-thief (jt) circuit.  I am very interested. I am going to go a little off topic, but I also looked into the earth-battery.  I just did a quick test in my back yard.  I used a sheet of copper (6 5/8" x 3 1/2") and a 1 1/4" x 4" x 1/8" aluminium.  I got up to over 1vdc. This was achieved by wiggling the aluminium strip.  But if I left it alone, it would slowly drop in voltage.  I am tearing apart an old burned up computer power supply to get a ferrite Toroid.  I will be trying with 26awg, and 30awg enameled copper wire, hook it to the earth battery.  Thanks for the new info. 

Offline jadaro2600

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2010, 01:04:34 AM »
@jadaro2600:
   I am looking into the joule-thief (jt) circuit.  I am very interested. I am going to go a little off topic, but I also looked into the earth-battery.  I just did a quick test in my back yard.  I used a sheet of copper (6 5/8" x 3 1/2") and a 1 1/4" x 4" x 1/8" aluminium.  I got up to over 1vdc. This was achieved by wiggling the aluminium strip.  But if I left it alone, it would slowly drop in voltage.  I am tearing apart an old burned up computer power supply to get a ferrite Toroid.  I will be trying with 26awg, and 30awg enameled copper wire, hook it to the earth battery.  Thanks for the new info.

No problem.  The JTC circuit can use multiple sources, the 9v source is fairly cut and dry.  The earth battery may work better if you pour water on the electrodes.  The idea is basically using the alkalinity of the soil to your advantage.

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2010, 01:04:34 AM »
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Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2010, 04:33:39 AM »
Sorry that I haven't posted anything lately. The bicycle wheel did not work. so trying to find a good replacement, and also winding one more pound of wire on the coil to the right (as seen in the pictures). I hope this increases the magnetic field significantly.  I should have had the wire wound today, but I am learning so much about the Joule Thief circuit, which has some extremely interesting potentials for a Newman motor!!!!

Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2010, 04:33:07 PM »
Ok, finished winding a second pound of wire on coil #1.  It looks much better.



Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2010, 07:07:46 PM »
Well, with a quick and dirty setup, I used the old wooden commutator. 

With 2lbs of copper on coil #1 and 1lb of copper on coil #2, total resistance of the wire is now 1155ohms.

I did 2 quick tests:
Test #1 @ 208v: Good and steady. about 60 - 100 RPMs.
Test #2 @ 344v: Better and faster. about 500 - 1000 RPMs

I only took a current reading for test #2. 75 - 85 mA
I am probably mistaken about the RPMs. I am not a good judgement on that. I will make a video soon.

To a small degree, this is proving a point. More wire, more windings, more resistance, the current went down, voltage only lower due to me depleting them, but 344v is not much of a reduction, and the torque increased enough to spin faster.  The point I am trying to prove or disprove is whether or not voltage is responsible for  atom alignment. Current teachings says the magnetic field comes from the flow of current through a conductor.  Newman says it voltage that aligns atoms, and like a permanent magnet, the magnetic field comes from the alignment of atoms. Why would this be any different for other metals?  Its not.

detrix42

Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2010, 07:09:11 PM »
Now I will start working on getting a joule thief to supply the voltage.

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Offline detrix42

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2010, 12:53:05 AM »
Update:  I did a quick video to show those who are following me in this adventure.  Motor #3 is not quite up to par just yet, but its working.

I am now working on making a Joule Thief that was suggested by jadaro2600.  I am using a transformer from a dead computer power supply.  Still trying to figure out the pins.  I thought I had them figured out, but not getting the results I am looking for.  With out an oscilloscope, I have no way of knowing if its osculating.

 

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Re: Newman Motor #3 by detrix42
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2010, 12:53:05 AM »

 

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