Hi all
It may be worth another look at Archers Device
Below is part of Archers posts
Ok first take three pencils and lay them across each other at equal spacing so they look a little like an asterisk, now imagine them on the front of you axel with the V Belt wheel behind them. you will not the arms do not intersect and that they will protrude further out from the wheel considerably, this is not some great secret part of the invention, this is so you can build it at home, you can make three intersecting arms at an engineers shop and spend a fortune on computer software to have the arms work in sequence, but this is simple and easy.
Ok first secret, the arms are hollow, they are tubes of high tensile plastic, stainless or aluminium, not ferrous or magnetic, your V Belt pulley wheel for your drive belt is also cast aluminium (this is normal anyway) So yes there are magnetic switches involved that the arms would interrupt. There are weights I will describe in the latter part of the design and show in the final download, that are moved from one side of the wheel to the other. This is where the loop is circumvented, the wheel cannot continue to turn once moved if the weight on one side is the same as the other, the trick was to move the weights through the tubes/arms from the 7 O'clock point to the one o’clock point thus removing lift. The 7 o’clock point has no lift or strain via work as it is still well below the centre of inertia or the middle of the momentum swing generated by the falling weight, (as discussed earlier with the pedestal fan) the one o’clock point is the start of the fall that generates the power. The problem has always been how do you move an object through the arms without using an equal amount of energy as the fall creates. Firstly there would actually be more energy required as the weight is actually fighting the centrifugal force of the momentum pushing it out at the 7 o’clock mark. The trick was not to have to move the weight from one side of the wheel to the other at all. the trick was to transfer the weight and primarily leave the object weight in the same place, this is where balance plays a small part in removing firstly the added force applied at 7 o’clock by the momentum, for any spinning wheel has equal force of momentum at every point, thus the opposing end of the tube rectified some of the problem.
so for now you understand that weight will be transferred along the tubes/arms from 7 o’clock to one o’clock circumventing standard lift required on the left of the wheel. Once these components are completed and the generator is attached we will check the power output from manually turning the wheel by hand to ensure it will produce power before we make it automatic. this will ensure you understand if the error is yours if you machine does not work. This way any errors can be fixed before hand and there won't be a swathe of people falsely saying it does not work. I want them all to work.
5.30 am 24/04/08 oz time
The next piece is optional but i find it a great reference point and removes tough calculations required to perfectly find three section points for your arms (there are three arms) find any piece of non ferrous pre-machined material that has been made in that shape, (three arms from a circle. Below is an old clothes dryer that has that sort of base, the other picture is it removed and place in the centre of the disk, again you will note it has a hole (this will need to be drilled out to match the other hole).using a bolt to get perfect centre with the disk or rim. you now have perfect symmetry for the three arms to be attached over the face of this wheel. Three screws to fix this in place should suffice, it is a template guide only for the arms.
Whilst i am here i will give you an insight as to part of this process and a crucial component of the arms. ok a simple timber or metal rack for holding pipe atop each other vertically is required to ensure symmetry. once in the rack and centre is measured, you can then drill a hole through all three simultaneously, using a same sized long bolt as the hole in you disk/rim centre you can thread this through the centre of the three and remove from the rack. laying the entire machine on its back so to speak in a horizontal position (you will need to prop it up) you will then position the centre bolt and spread the arms to you template piece or measured marks of one third ready to affix in place. once fixed the bolt will be removed.
Ok now you understand what is going to happen you will of course know to remove the pipes from the rack once drilled and clean any burrs from the inside to the pipes/arms before placing back in the rack for the bolt. The second part to this is not only understanding the hole will have no effect, but depending upon the weight components you are able to build with your available parts, the fit will vary. For those with super smooth fit weights you will have greater vacuum and greater air pressure to contend with, so hole numbers may have to be added to remove any piston pressure effect that may slow the weight traveling through the pipe too much.
Also I should have noted that in the event you cannot get any of these parts but have plenty of money you can of course have the parts made, or buy them new.
And to the few questions regarding gravitational axel torque you are indeed correct, when the weight of the arms is increased the weight required to move the wheel increases, however this although proportional is fractional thus the traveling weight still need only be the straw the broke the camels back, EG a ten ton Ferris wheel can be turn by hand by a man on the ground less than a 100 kg, or if the man climbs up the centre of the ride and out to the carriage at 1 o’clock the wheel will turn and in fact the momentum will still take him past the 7 o’clock point (have personally done this climb many times as I traveled with the carnival as a boy and worked on just such a wheel).
now for some more building, you will need to build flyrods for the arms, these rods are weighted with aluminium or stainless
inore the ribs, this is what i already had on hand. then after this a permanent magnet of equal or greater size is affixed to each each of the heads., do not build at this at this time just had the stainless rod and weights etc ready for the download, the arm length is crucial to the rods.
this time after you have set up the wheel part, fix the gen in place at a comfortable tension on the v belt, place your multimeter into the active and neutral or both browns on this machine and set to any output reading, the digital numbers should move, how much does not matter at this point, so long as you know it will produce power, my weights are around 250 grams per end. this is also not set, as you will see later.
test the machine by turning the main wheel
get a rod or stick and place a magnet on each end in a tube, some weight is required but you could tape something in the middle that does not touch the sides. make sure the rod is not magnetic, and the magnet on each end is identical.
take a magnet that can pull and hold the rod and weights up the tube to around 45 degrees before it lets go, now if it holds add more weight until this happens. Done?? now hold the magnet in reverse (repelling) at the other end and it should push it in around half an inch to an inch, now slowly raise the tube to the 45, does make it does it, the magnet and weight although repelling cannot push/repel as hard as it can pull, now i do not give a rats ass what sort of bullshitif a wheel is continually imbalanced it will keep turning because it cannot balance. now go back and see what the rod cannot do . As with two ring magnets on a pole one keeping the other suspended, this was simply put to work.
The original machine unlike the one I am building now worked as follows, the centre axel of the wheel was an 18 volt motor/generator the shaft ran directly to the centre of the wheel, no belts or pulleys. The arms/tubes were around 1meter in length, the internal rods were non magnetic and the weights on each end the same, the total weight was about 1.5 kg per rod, and the tube was stainless. The motor shaft was simply pipe clamped either side of an aluminium disk like the turntable disk, with a ply face glued and screwed over it, and the arms x 3 were fixed equal distance apart each over the top of the other, and simply had aluminium strapping over them to the disk and screwed down (bitch of a job after the first one, get some blocks to hold the pipe in place)
The rods were including the magnets that were disk magnets (not rings) and were around 3-4 inches total short of the arms, at 7 o’clock through to 9 o’clock the was an arc/curved electromagnet (looked like an I beam with the wire around the centre polarising both plates) it was flat I bent it slightly. This when on simply kept the rod from sitting left or centre, so it has to rotate as the weight cannot sit even or left, always to the right. This I believe should work without the rest of the machine if well machined and correctly weighted.
The satellite effect is this, from ten past 12 to (2.30 roughly or you firing mark) there is simply an arc of permanent magnets at this point, they do not lift the rods, they are not meant to, but they should be able to hold the weight of a rod to almost vertical in a tube before letting go. This is the earth, rather than the curve of the earth from outside the circle, I reversed it so the satellite or rod was drawn toward the inside of the curve of the arc, instead of the outside curve of the earth.
Crucial here is to find the point at which the rod lifts from the base magnet during rotation, and the earth arc must finish at around 75 percent of the opposing alignment with the tube.
The effect is this, pushing a full shopping trolley, or pushing one that is being pulled from the front at the same time. The reason for the arc is field, from the top of the arc there is already someone pulling the trolley so to speak, so the magnet at the base has little work to do knowing you have already tested the drop point and strength of the arc. The reason it must finish where it does is the rod should arrive just when it misses the arc, or catches insufficient pull to hold it there, the falling satellite, just cant quite get there only inside out.
Now there is a wall if you try to use permanents at the base rather than draw power from the generator to pulse the base magnet, it can be breached but the weight calculations are difficult , you can use a mica switch for the arms as they are over the base magnet to pulse the electromagnetic or a light beam sensor like a shop door entry. The light beam would only suit a larger wheel. And the power is only used during that pulse. I use the arc system so you don’t need exact positioning over the end of the arm, you need stops at the end of the arm for the rods that are not obtrusive as the arms must almost graze the arcs.
It cannot be anything but unbalanced, for the first time in your life you are trying to imagine the opposite, how can it stop? How can the arm ever sit left or centre, and there are always more than one weight on the wrong side of the wheel?
So how can I make it not turn?? You can’t.
The reality is opposite to what every critic believes, get someone to, build a drive rod that can sit left or centre against the repulsion now that “is†impossible, so if it can only stay on the right side of the machine, that side will keep falling.
Here is the kicker, what about arguments of weight versus lift etc, well I did string them along with that for long enough for the machine not to be taken too seriously by those who would shut down the site. Let them double the normal losses of momentum, don’t let the weight whatever it may be run up to 11 o’clock from 1 o’clock (normal swing) let them double what they think is lost, and sit down and ponder how much energy is now needed to get lift. How much is that exactly again??? Um, none, surprise!!!! The ring magnets on the pole have no wheel, in fact at 45 degrees the gap “increases†and remember none of that includes the satellite effect, so how much loss is there to friction times newtons grandmothers birthday?
Who bloody cares, if the base magnet on a ring pole equals the outside of the circle/wheel, and you push down on the top magnet to get your rod to sit centre on the wheel when you build it, it will sit to the right forever, (well at least 20 years)
And magnet cost and energy to make, I bought a chess board from a two dollar shop that had full chess and draughts set with magnets, not counting the cost of the pieces board packaging an profits, I can buy cheap stereos for 5 dollars with large speaker magnets not counting the rest of the device.
Magnets do not cost a lot, nor do they take vast energy to make, even if they burned power to make them, so what? Use energy from these machines to make them.
Sorry about having to send you through the physics loop over power to weight ratios, but if the device was known and let loose on that day, what would have happened on the 19th of June?
? It had to be surpise and it had to have an elemnt of doubt. Hey if you can have someone bumped for 10,000 a president for a million, a country invasion for a billion, what would control of all the worlds power be worth??? Nothing now baby, it’s free.
I will still be rebuilding my own and releasing plans on that date, but by then I expect many will have done the same thing.
No creation of energy, no magic, and best of all no need for loss calculations, unless of course gravity stops altogether .
Naturally if you are an engineer bearings on the rods at contact points etc to remove travel friction and so on.
Make the rod sit to the right or centre, no politician or scientific bullshit story can ever make that happen. It really is over. Told ya so.
Damn I forgot to con everyone out of millions, bugger.
God speed. Don’t forget to copy and paste it whilst it is still up just in case.
Archer Quinn
All the best john
