Re:

stefan & miki .. if you are right ... as opposed to buying & replacing batteries ...

Assuming the batteries are lead acid, and as long as none of the cells are shorted, they can be re-charged with an Energenx charger available from John Bedini for a bit over US$200 plus shipping plus tax. That removes the sulfation on the electrodes and restores them to almost new condition, as John would say. One pays a bit more up front for the battery charger, but saves down the line by having batteries which last longer ... sorry for the pitch ..Perhaps the Energenx charger can be worked into the self-running aspect of the Bowling device.

Hal Ade

1:There is a theory somewhere in this forum telling that if you use pulsation to charge a battery, then the ionic acid will continu to flow a little bit between two pulsations

2:the other theory is there is sort of cold fusion graphit inside the little motor

3:and the theory of both 1 and 2


and a good way to keep good battery is to put some epson salt in it, then the sulfatation does not occur

anyway all of this is like a Tesla Switch

I have moved to California and haven't been playing with my batteries for a while. I've made lots of mistakes, including trying to use batteries that didn't work. It's been months since I even looked at this post, but I will check it from time to time. I have put everything I know here so those of you with more brains and experience can make of it what you will. I hope somebody gets something out of this that leads somewhere and remembers to keep me posted. dbbowing@hotmail.com

For those of you who have been persistant enough to stick with this, here is what I can tell you, and from the beginning.....Many of you have chimed in that you felt like you knew what the schematic I was using was, and to some extent, many of you were right.....but also wrong, because something I did was not quite as it appeared. I used three batteries and a motor, and that is all. No hidden circuits, no resistors....nothing else.  Battery 1 had it's positive pole connected to the positive pole of the motor. It's negative pole was connected to the positive terminal of battery 2. The negative terminal of battery 2 was connected to the NEGATIVE terminal of battery 3. The positive terminal of battery 3 was connected to the other leg (negative) of the motor, thus forming a complete circuit. Batteries 1 and Battery 2 are fully charged. Battery 3 is very, very, VERY low in charge. MANY people have done this experiment using EXACTLY this schematic and with no exceptional results. This diagram is all over the internet and is credited to John Bedini. It is part of what is known as the Tesla swith from what I can tell. What makes what I have done different you may ask? Well, read on.

Here is what I did differently. Battery 3 is a battery that will NOT hold a charge, even when charged with "cold electricity." If the battery TRULY will not hold a charge and is extremely low to begin with, here is what will happen. You will complete this circuit and NOTHING will happen. The motor will not start and everything will just sit there. Be patient. Wait. After a few minutes, possibly as many as 15 or 20, the charge will build up in Battery 3 and suddenly the motor will start up and run. It will continue to run for a while as the charge in the three batteries attempts to equalize. Once this gets close to happening, the motor shuts off. Wait. Wait patiently. As battery 3 loses its charge, the motor will kick back on, everything will work for a while until the charge builds up toward equalization between the three batteries, and then it will shut off again. This cycle will repeat over and over and over again....far beyond what three batteries could ever hope to produce individually. I don't know why. It just does. Try it for yourself.

This was my FIRST experiment. If you get it to work like this, you know you have the three batteries you need to progress farther. If battery 3 HOLDS it charge, go find a different battery because you have "Fixed" battery 3, but ruined it for this process.

Now I will tell you what I did that made all the difference. I connected the devices that I wanted to run on 12 volts of electricity between battery 2 and 3. (Yes, this means that both sides of the devices were connected to negative terminals of batteries.) The minute the motor kicked on (which told me battery 3 had a partial charge) I turned on my electrical devices to keep battery 3 from being charged to the point where it would shut the system down again. The hardest part of the whole experiment was making sure that battery 3 got enough electricity to keep the circuit complete (remember it's a bad battery and its life will drain out if it is not constantly fed), but not enough to reach the point of equalization (they never really "equalize, that's just what they seem to be trying to do) where it shut down the whole system. The worst thing that will happen is battery 3 won't get enough juice to keep the thing running and it will shut off. I was able to connect up an AC inverter and run small power tools and even my shop vac on the electricity I was producing without discharging batteries 1 and 2. I put many, many, many batteries into this circuit to charge them, all without discharging batteries 1 and 2.

Sorry it has taken me so long to give you all the scoop. Lots of changes in my life lately and I am not giving this the time and attention it deserves.

@Goat,

I think he connected the circuit like this.

Groundloop.

@Goat,

Did he say what kind of electric motor he used? Will a 12 Volt drill motor do?
I'm charging up two of my 12 V 7 A batteries now and will try this out.

Groundloop.

@Dbowling,

Thank you for confirming the circuit setup. In you picture there is a belt and a "thingy" connected
to your motor. What is the "thingy" doing?

Groundloop.

@Dbowling,

Thanks.

Groundloop.