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Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications  (Read 1207450 times)

Offline MW383

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Bruce,
I do have a new coil constructed. I have yet to experiment with it yet. Take a look at the picture I posted above. My latest coil is much like this, almost identical in fact. I took the liberty of using better materials however. My copper wire was custom produced for me and has a water permeable nylon weave insulation as opposed to cotton. The nylon will not degrade like coils I built previously that incorporated cotton insulation. For insulation between winding layers I use battery grade Hollingsworth&Vose seperator paper. The 'paper' description is just an industry used term. Its actual material is a water permeable synthetic material that will also not readily degrade like cotton. I was quite generous in the applied thickness of this seperator paper (thickness = 1/3 that of the wire diameter). 14Ga wire was utilized for the main windings. Windings are tight and neat just like the picture. I do not use winding apparatus, they are all done by hand. A very hard task because of the guage involved but I take my time to get it right. The main windings were wound in a fashion that will allow complete experimentation of different formats/strategies.
Many people (probably all), use these Stubblefield systems with a secondary coil being the only tappable source of power. I'm not falling into that trap. A secondary used in this fashion is a nice little gimmick at best. I will still build a secondary, but not in the common format everyone else does. It will be a slide over the primary coil design that is removable. Furthermore it will be built using the 'slice' method. With each slice dimensioned and wound to take best advantage of available magnetic field in any particular spot on the overall coil. Actually 2 secondaries will be built. One that soaks up field with an oscillating primary (what every shmoe does) and a second primary that operates the system totally backwards. For experimentation's sake, an english manufactured resonant circuit will be utilized. It has a very wide frequency range that is adjustable. Tishitang + ground antenna logic will be the basis of all experimentation moving forward. I have already experimented with ground antenna philosophy and it is VERY interesting to say the least. Somewhere in this forum are posts on the subject.
With warm weather setting in and the ground thawing, I look forward to getting to work and in the ground (where the power is).
 

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Offline IotaYodi

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@MW383
What type of steel did you use on the core? What type of iron wire?

Offline MW383

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@MW383
What type of steel did you use on the core? What type of iron wire?
Core material = 1018 steel rod stock.
Iron wire = 14ga annealed (I do not know specific metallurgical specs). Using annealed variety is critical because it is soft and able to be wound easily. I do sand the wire before winding onto the coil. I basically take the black colored surface off with the sandpaper, thus leaving shiny bare steel. I am no anneal expert but understand it is a controlled increase in temperature followed by controlled cool down. It softens the metal basically. The black color is unknown to me. I guess it to be oxides but am not sure. I just got rid of it with the sandpaper before winding to the coil.
Nothing fancy with either of these materials. I have half a mind to make a bundled style core using small diameter rod stock but I have not gotten around to it again. So for now I am using crude solid core like Stubblefield did. Nothing in my latest coil is crazy or exotic. I did use improved insulative type materials but they were chosen for their ability to not degrade. I doubt whether they have any impact on performance. My goal with this latest coil was to build a very clean one. So the primary is on and looks quite like the William Love photograph I just posted. I have to collect materials still before I can start on the 2 secondaries I have planned. I also will be trying a mumetal based magnetic sheilding on the outside of the secondary coil. The purpose here is to better confine and utilize induced currents. This is more of an efficiency thing with me and won't be an earth shattering improvement to this system.

Offline Bruce_TPU

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Bruce,
I do have a new coil constructed. I have yet to experiment with it yet. Take a look at the picture I posted above. My latest coil is much like this, almost identical in fact. I took the liberty of using better materials however. My copper wire was custom produced for me and has a water permeable nylon weave insulation as opposed to cotton. The nylon will not degrade like coils I built previously that incorporated cotton insulation. For insulation between winding layers I use battery grade Hollingsworth&Vose seperator paper. The 'paper' description is just an industry used term. Its actual material is a water permeable synthetic material that will also not readily degrade like cotton. I was quite generous in the applied thickness of this seperator paper (thickness = 1/3 that of the wire diameter). 14Ga wire was utilized for the main windings. Windings are tight and neat just like the picture. I do not use winding apparatus, they are all done by hand. A very hard task because of the guage involved but I take my time to get it right. The main windings were wound in a fashion that will allow complete experimentation of different formats/strategies.
Many people (probably all), use these Stubblefield systems with a secondary coil being the only tappable source of power. I'm not falling into that trap. A secondary used in this fashion is a nice little gimmick at best. I will still build a secondary, but not in the common format everyone else does. It will be a slide over the primary coil design that is removable. Furthermore it will be built using the 'slice' method. With each slice dimensioned and wound to take best advantage of available magnetic field in any particular spot on the overall coil. Actually 2 secondaries will be built. One that soaks up field with an oscillating primary (what every shmoe does) and a second primary that operates the system totally backwards. For experimentation's sake, an english manufactured resonant circuit will be utilized. It has a very wide frequency range that is adjustable. Tishitang + ground antenna logic will be the basis of all experimentation moving forward. I have already experimented with ground antenna philosophy and it is VERY interesting to say the least. Somewhere in this forum are posts on the subject.
With warm weather setting in and the ground thawing, I look forward to getting to work and in the ground (where the power is).

Hi MW383,
I'm sorry, but I don't see the picture.  Please post it so I can have a look see.  I think I may know a way to use positive feedback into the primary.  The current from this will increase the magnetic field by a little, thus increasing the output, etc.  And I have an idea how to get some of this current to feedback.   But it will take a setup like lasersabers, with the magnets acting as a make and break, to make this happen, I think.
 
 
Let me know if your interested.
 
 
Cheers,
 
 
Bruce

Offline IotaYodi

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Quote
I'm sorry, but I don't see the picture.  Please post it so I can have a look see.  I think I may know a way to use positive feedback into the primary         

I think this is the pic he is referring to.




Can you elaborate on the positive feedback. I assume you mean through the single wire secondary.

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Offline Bruce_TPU

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I think this is the pic he is referring to.




Can you elaborate on the positive feedback. I assume you mean through the single wire secondary.
Hi Iota Yodi,
I would try both.  First try the secondary by adding a little current, and then try it into the primary.  One would need a way to measure the strength of the B field and see if there is any increase.  I believe there would be.  That would be step 1.  Step 2 would be working on producing just enough current (I can help with this) from the aforementioned B field, to kick start the process.
 
Cheers,
 
Bruce

Offline kwemvolt

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someone may know whats going on here . take an aluminum plate , one very rusty steel plate and a gal pipe or bolt.
weld the gal bolt or gal pipe to the rusty steel plate so that the rusty plate makes a base for the bolt or pipe. clamp the rusty plate to the aluminum plate, now take a lead and connect it to an earth stake the other end connect to the aluminum plate. now thate your meter and place the probes between the aluminum plate and the gal .
i assume this is "The rusty bolt effect" is a description of radio interference due to interactions with dirty connections or corroded parts. but assumptions can be wrong .regards to all kwem

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Offline drodenbe

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Re: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications
« Reply #4012 on: September 08, 2012, 04:53:22 PM »
Iota, 

was just going through the forum and found your posting on your buying the cotton covered wire.  You might try a local motor rewind business.  We have one here and he has been around for a while.  He has several 5000 and 10000 feet rolls of old cotton coated wire 18 and 20 gage.  He no longer needs it.  Been setting on shelf for years.  I buy as much as I like for 5.00 a pound.  Great find.  You might try the same.  Well I will go back to sleep now! :)

Offline choro

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Re: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications
« Reply #4013 on: September 14, 2012, 04:52:39 PM »
Hi all !
   It was difficult for me to find the cotton covered wire and I decided to do
the Nathan stubblefield earth coil by another way. I separated the steel wire ( Ø = 1 mm) and the copper wire ( Ø = 0.8 mm, 50 m) by linen thread ( Ø = 1 mm). So I have had 4 strands (see the pictures).  After each layer I used the masking tape (it is porous and is glued when wet) and one layer of linen thread. And so on.
The potential difference of the finished dry coil was between 250 to 620 mV  (maybe, depends on the orientation and time of day). In distilled water  the potential difference quickly risen to 850 mV, pulled out of the water - the potential difference all the time now stays from 750 to 780 mV, the coil is dry to the touch. The compass needle deviates slightly if the copper and iron contacts were breefly closed. With 9 V battery hang the copper and iron contacts (the other two are open), the compass needle deviates much. But the battery is not discharging ! You can use this free 'flash' of magnetic field for another purpose – motors, coils ... etc.  Instead of 9 V battery you can use another source, but before breakdown. Add that, when battery is hooked, the coil behaves as a capacitor with a rather large leak.

Offline Pirate88179

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Re: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications
« Reply #4014 on: September 15, 2012, 02:35:20 AM »
Choro:

Nice work.  I made 2 of mine the same way you did.  Mine were much thinner though.  I like your observations.

Bill

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Re: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications
« Reply #4014 on: September 15, 2012, 02:35:20 AM »
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Offline opticor

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Re: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications
« Reply #4015 on: September 15, 2012, 09:04:20 AM »
Hello everyone,

I have been interested in Alt Energy devices for years...I'm constantly researching, watching YouTube videos and Reasoning out Ideas.
I started reading your thread from the beginning...got through about 30 pages....realized there were 268...skipped ahead to catch up.
I am really excited about how far everyone has gotten.

I am going to make a statement, not to sound like a know it all.  I have known for a long time it was resonance and frequency based.  I just could not afford to
build something. Your diagrams and instructions have inspired me to build a coil...i believe if we get a variable capacitor and "tune" the primary to the earth or telluric currents it will "ring" it.
then make the secondary resonate to the primary.....i believe i read that Tesla used 1/4 wave and Full wave  coils to resonate.  If I'm incorrect please let me know.
As for the "galvanic" action...i believe that it's a dead end. anyway, i bought some 22awg wire..2 spools of about 90ft each...as a starting point. I'm unemployed right now so this
will take me some time to build.

thanks for listening.

Andrew

Offline gadgetmall

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Re: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications
« Reply #4016 on: November 08, 2012, 06:08:40 AM »
I just bought a 9 inch long 1/2 inch rare soft iron iron (iron/rubber)and 5 pounds of cotton covered to start my large self powered dry stubblefield coil to run a pulse motor like lasersaber . This rod is 100 time more magnetic field than steel and demagnetizes itself instantly with no trace of magnetizing on power removal  at all but the electromagnetic forger energized with just a small amount of copper wire is extremely powerful .  . at 20 dollars for this one of a kind rare rod it is pricey but i believe it is exactly what Stubblefield used. on the other hand i got the 5 pounds of #22 wire for 20 bucks . It is also about 40 years old and  in a large folgers coffee can full from top to bottom about 1200 feet + . more than i need for one i am sure . It will be a monster coil however so i will see if size matters .Now i need a source for some soft iron wire that is easy to wind . Anyone?

Offline Bob Smith

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Re: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications
« Reply #4017 on: November 09, 2012, 12:49:51 AM »
@ Gadgetmall,
Home Depot sells a soft black iron wire in a 5 or 6 inch diameter coil for a few dollars. I tried making a TPU with it. I think it's probably for tying page wire fence to posts on the farm. I don't know what kind of quality it is, but if nothing else materializes, it might be a cheap option to try.
Bob
 

Offline IotaYodi

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Re: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications
« Reply #4018 on: November 09, 2012, 02:56:51 AM »
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metal-wire/=k2xmn2

Black oxide 1008. Its about $30 for 960 feet for 14 gauge.

1008 chemistry

Iron (Fe)     99%
Carbon (C)     0.08%
Manganese (Mn)     0.6% max
Phosphorus (P)     0.035% max
Copper (Cu)     0.2% min
Sulfur (S)     0.04%

Offline Krb686

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This topic seems pretty cool, but I'm not about to sit down and read through ~260 pages to take it all in.  I'm really just curious about the highest power output someone has gotten from an earth battery so far.  Saw the short video with the guy supposedly getting 1.8 amps, but that didn't seem very reliable.  I want to see how feasible this really is as a source of energy, and sourcing tens or hundrends of microamps just ain't gonna cut it. 


So then, what is the highest power output or current output someone has gotten?  What design did you use? And did you notice any changes that directly alter available current?


Thanks

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