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Author Topic: Pierre's 170W in 1600W out Looped Very impressive Build continued & moderated  (Read 433880 times)

konehead

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Hi all

Here is attachments is what Gary Porter (Skipperbythesea) has built so far.
He ordered a big PCB board to mount mosfets and arduino stuff too (cost 500USD)
He is serious builder, fully understands the power you get from the backemf/recoil as well, and knows how to harness and store it.
His stationary-rotor is going to be square shaped, made from a HV transformer core he as got already....
Note his bifilar coils in his stators - idea is to flip polarity very simple, pulse one bifilar half one way, other half the other way. Now also un-used half gets some tight induced power into them as well.

d3x0r

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I thought i would do a search 'magnetic flux rope'
to get an idea of what the world might think what I'm saying means...

https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/182659/what-is-a-magnetic-flux-rope-and-how-does-it-differ-from-magnetic-flux-tubes

More rope-like images   Seem  only be able to capture them from the side, while top-down on a sun-spot just shows blackness...  And only when charged with plasma.

my attempt to get more knowledge about knowledge of magnetic flux ropes (they are no help; probably should find a better thread to interject on)

Separate poles are not going to work very well...
------------

r2fpl I don't know how hard it is for you to reconfigure...

But if you started with the simplest case... north on one side and south on the entirely opposite side.  (A total of 2 or 4 coils energized), and swept them through 180 degrees... and position the pickup at the 90 degree mark should get something resembling tension on the pickup?

marathonman

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d3x0r;

 I see you are a troll and a shill. why do you insist on interrupting threads with your total bull that has nothing to do with the thread. people like you should be barred for life and your IP address blocked.
you should be a shamed of your self for having no class, decency or respect for others.

respect these peoples thread and drop your BS or better yet GO AWAY !. you will be reported as a troll and a shill.

Marathonman

d3x0r

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d3x0r;

 I see you are a troll and a shill. why do you insist on interupting threads with your  and bull that has nothing to do with the thread. people like you should be barred for life and your IP address blocked.
you should be a shamed of your self for having no class, decency or respect for others.

respect these peoples thread and drop your BS or better yet GO AWAY !. you will be reported as a troll and a shill.

Marathonman
Says fake news...


I hesitated to respond, on topic, in the topic related to the post that was also duplicated by saad.  I knew I would draw your eye with disagreement; so I said, respectfully, I disagree.  And dropped it.


This, however, is on topic here, and relavent to the MO.


But; as always, can lead a cat to food but can't make them eat. 

T-1000

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This is the modified version as a curiosity. Normally it is just like Pierre, and nothing happens after the move. The field is spinning but there is no tension on LOAD.
Possibly the ending of previous coil are too tight with beginning of new coil on each pin? If that is a case it is getting cancellation. It have to be at least few centimeters distance between coils. And it is main reason why I am still looking for hard-to-get stator which would allow fill space with core between those ends.

As in the movie: https://youtu.be/0IKX8MeVQio (= original programm Pierre 1on-2on-1off ...)

Probably the coils must be cw-ccw-cw-ccw .... or else.
In that video each pin around a ring have individual formed magnet with opposite to the next pin I guess?
Also all coils need to be in same direction. But the current flow need to be opposite on every 6 coils from 36 around stator.

P.S> We need to generate moving field to be same as we would turn rotor with 3 phase magnets inside of stator. Not just rotating magnetic field around coil axis.

d3x0r

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Possibly the ending of previous coil are too tight with beginning of new coil on each pin? If that is a case it is getting cancellation. It have to be at least few centimeters distance between coils. And it is main reason why I am still looking for hard-to-get stator which would allow fill space with core between those ends.
In that video each pin around a ring have individual formed magnet with opposite to the next pin I guess?
Also all coils need to be in same direction. But the current flow need to be opposite on every 6 coils from 36 around stator.

P.S> We need to generate moving field to be same as we would turn rotor with 3 phase magnets inside of stator. Not just rotating magnetic field around coil axis.


The original pairing given by Pierre was 1-6.  That's a skip of 5 for a paired winding.  the first coils on are 1 and 13, which puts a skip of 2 between the second and third windings, but then its pair had a skip of 0.


http://overunity.com/17609/170-watts-in-1600-watts-out-looped-very-impressive-build-and-video/msg518071/#msg518071  (that image is terrible because it pairs pairs badly...


http://overunity.com/17653/pierres-170w-in-1600w-out-looped-very-impressive-build-continued-moderated/dlattach/attach/167735/image//  (paired coils are in the same numbers, which you can compare with the original; 1, 13, 31 are also in a set...  that's lines puple, orange, green; the offset on the bottom left is kinda worse than I expected, and the orange overlaps the inner black more than I would have liked.
I added black dashes later to separate the N and S (or S and N ) paired coils... which then puts 3 sets of close poles with gaps
as illustrated here


http://overunity.com/17653/pierres-170w-in-1600w-out-looped-very-impressive-build-continued-moderated/dlattach/attach/167740/image//


But because of the series driving piere's coils can't actually be driven like that so you need a span of a couple on .... which then you lose the sparation; and although Pierre never showed 4 poles, one might extrapolate that you'd have a pair close, a skip, and another pair close.


http://overunity.com/17653/pierres-170w-in-1600w-out-looped-very-impressive-build-continued-moderated/dlattach/attach/167768/image//  (the 3 in series number are in the same color.... with 3 in series; a 2 minimum in series is required); but that's also 30 poles... could find my 36 template and make a similar highlight. 




T-1000

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Those images do not reflect actual required magnetic polarities. When position 1,13,24 are +HIGH with the position 5,17,29 are +LOW. And position 7,19,30 -LOW with position 11,23,34 -HIGH ('-' = inverted current direction representation). That assumes all coils are on same direction and in series. Then we have same polarity over 4 coils towards center and opposite polarity outside of stator.

P.S> To test polarities set delay for 30 seconds and to limit current have bulb attached in series to coils.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2018, 01:24:06 PM by T-1000 »

d3x0r

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The capacitors were the expensive part found these

 2.7V 500F on a CDSWELL charge balancer
https://amzn.to/2FzaEXb
apparently pierre's capacitors are only 1/2 charged since he has 3 of these in series.  They're also sold as car voltage boosters; they come with a 50W resistor because a DC battery can dump so much current probably. 

Arduino mega is cheap of course; and relays...
 opto isolated
https://amzn.to/2Ibf8bZ

 there was only one of these
https://amzn.to/2KvS2ej
but it's also optoisolated and claims 5mA operation... thought the other was the same but I guess no.

And after a little research; even though these are also low-enable, writing output to a high before setting it as an output will first-enable with the pin high; https://www.selloutsoon.com/albums/documents/20-018-102/8+Relay+Module.rar has a internal schematic.  Without a logic input enabled to pull it down, the relays won't enable on initial power up.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2018, 05:37:49 PM by hartiberlin »

r2fpl

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« Last Edit: May 04, 2018, 03:37:25 PM by gotoluc »

d3x0r

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http://tinyurl.com/y79xsbjp

hmmm...
You have a bad connect on the lower left switch.
Also, you have 4 relays between the coils on the end (two to the left of the first, and two to the right of last) not 100% why that's causing the oscillation, since it should be just the same as having the first closed; which it already is...


-----
@any


Any advice where to source AC motor/generator cores?  Was considering getting a alternator from the junk yard, but they don't have very much metal on the outside for the outer flux path.

citfta

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You have a bad connect on the lower left switch.
Also, you have 4 relays between the coils on the end (two to the left of the first, and two to the right of last) not 100% why that's causing the oscillation, since it should be just the same as having the first closed; which it already is...


-----
@any


Any advice where to source AC motor/generator cores?  Was considering getting a alternator from the junk yard, but they don't have very much metal on the outside for the outer flux path.

Here are a few links to places to look for surplus motors:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/

https://www.blowerwheel.com/electric-motors

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/dcmotors.aspx

r2fpl

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You have a bad connect on the lower left switch.
Also, you have 4 relays between the coils on the end (two to the left of the first, and two to the right of last) not 100% why that's causing the oscillation, since it should be just the same as having the first closed; which it already is...


-----
@any


Any advice where to source AC motor/generator cores?  Was considering getting a alternator from the junk yard, but they don't have very much metal on the outside for the outer flux path.

Who said it could not be different? Pierre did not say everything. Most important thing is joining the stator. There are many options.

r2fpl

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« Last Edit: May 04, 2018, 03:36:04 PM by gotoluc »

T-1000

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Another version:

http://tinyurl.com/y7uml9dt
The correct switching positions would be:
step1) http://tinyurl.com/y7vsxqdq then delay()
step2) http://tinyurl.com/y77hkk2q then delay()
step3) http://tinyurl.com/ycarhljp then delay()

Cheers!




d3x0r

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Here are a few links to places to look for surplus motors:


https://www.surpluscenter.com/


https://www.blowerwheel.com/electric-motors


http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/dcmotors.aspx
There's a Granger down the road... https://www.grainger.com/content/general-catalog  but kinda silly to get a new motor...
I also thought maybe AC (air cond) repair places? (like the blower fan motor but tthat's < 1HP)






Who said it could not be different? Pierre did not say everything. Most important thing is joining the stator. There are many options.
Ya; but when attempting at replication I prefer to try to match paramters as close as possible; since I don't have anything else immediately available that's viable...
I have  a bunch of E cores, which I can sort-of use; but they are very small; so using 24ga wire it's really low inductance; and 32 ga wire is much better inductance; but with 12V doesn't really generate a good field (too much resistance); so I don't those will be viable... plus too many wedge-shaped gaps inbetween...


also considering the null results vs what I have seen of other replicators; that might be a factor;
also I don't know if the slots are important; such that a ferrite filled coil set should also have the fingers?