Storing Cookies (See : http://ec.europa.eu/ipg/basics/legal/cookies/index_en.htm ) help us to bring you our services at overunity.com . If you use this website and our services you declare yourself okay with using cookies .More Infos here:
https://overunity.com/5553/privacy-policy/
If you do not agree with storing cookies, please LEAVE this website now. From the 25th of May 2018, every existing user has to accept the GDPR agreement at first login. If a user is unwilling to accept the GDPR, he should email us and request to erase his account. Many thanks for your understanding

User Menu

Custom Search

Author Topic: Skycollection's "Pentafilar Pancake" inductively coupled "Overunity Potential".  (Read 224369 times)

skycollection

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 169
Thanks Synchro1, it´s possible to make pancake coils but i need a lot of money to start a company.......the pancake coils have potential overunity and i will make the process soon, i hope. About the oscilloscope is the first time that  i connect this device, i don´t know how to use it, but i hope it serves the information i presented in this video.

skycollection

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 169
About the leds turned on........sometimes happens tha the leds turned on by switch alone without the magnet rotor, but not all time, sometimes i need to move the rotor to start "self oscillation" i did many times the test and 4 of 9 truned on and 5 needs to move the magnet. I am looking some way to start on without the help of the magnets, but this is "investigation" that takes time, i will make it soon.

Void

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2333
About the leds turned on........sometimes happens tha the leds turned on by switch alone without the magnet rotor, but not all time, sometimes i need to move the rotor to start "self oscillation" i did many times the test and 4 of 9 truned on and 5 needs to move the magnet. I am looking some way to start on without the help of the magnets, but this is "investigation" that takes time, i will make it soon.

Hi skycollection. What are you using to power the circuit in your last video? 
If you power from a battery, how much current is drawn from the battery to
power the circuit when you are light all those LEDs? Are you using 3 volts?
All the best...


MileHigh

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7600
Jorge:

The simple truth is that you are making a transformer with one primary and multiple secondaries.  If you took a toroidal ferrite core, and made your own primary and secondary windings and connected up your LEDs you would get the same or better results.  Most likely you would get better results because the coupling between the primary and the multiple secondaries would be much better.  I am assuming that any power losses in the core will be much much less than the power that goes into your LED loads.

Have fun with your experimenting.  I encourage to experiment.  But it would be a mistake to believe that you are doing something different or unique or doing something that might be over unity.  You are simply making a multi-tap air core transformer by putting several pancake coils inside the plastic tube.

I am really not sure if a multi-tap toroidal ferrite core transformer would give you better results than your multi-tap air core transformer based on your pancake coils.  The real way to find out would be to make precision power-in and power out measurements for both configurations using a digital storage oscilloscope.

However, you could make a pretty good alternative measurement by driving the primary with a pure sine wave from an audio amplifier and changing the LED lights for load resistors.  If you did that then you could make precision power-in and power-out measurements with your oscilloscope or a good quality true-RMS multimeter.  You could make the precision measurements on the pancake coil transformer and the toroidal core transformer like this and compare the two setups for their power-in vs. total power out efficiency.  That would at least give you some data that would indicate which of the two transformer configurations gives you better performance for a sine wave input and driving multiple resistive loads.

I will repeat, I encourage you to experiment.  If you don't want to make measurements that's fine and that your choice.  But you have to be realistic and understand what you are dong and have reasonable and realistic expectations for your results.

MileHigh

skycollection

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 169
Void, in this experiment i used three AA batteries, and i can use the supercaps with the same result, but the supercpas needs to charge every 4 minutes, i am implementing the system to charge the supercaps "in series" in less time with a SIX VOLTS BATTERY in less time and disconnect the supercapas to avoid to overload, soon i will make the video on youtube.

skycollection

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 169
Milehigh, to be realistic, the toroid that you present i know very well, but if you pretent swicht on 5 12 volts bulbs leds, never will work like my inductive coupling transformer, I would challenge the best members of  Overunity  to build a torus and swicht on 5 12 volts LED bulbs with only 3 volts ....!

Void

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2333
Void, in this experiment i used three AA batteries, and i can use the supercaps with the same result, but the supercpas needs to charge every 4 minutes, i am implementing the system to charge the supercaps "in series" in less time with a SIX VOLTS BATTERY in less time and disconnect the supercapas to avoid to overload, soon i will make the video on youtube.

Thanks skycollection.  So, 3 AA batteries in series to give about 4.5 volts? Do you have a meter that can measure DC current,
that you can use to measure the DC current that is being drawn from the batteries while lighting all the LED lights? This
can really help to give a better idea how the circuit is performing.
All the best...


skycollection

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 169
Milehigh, where did you see that a torus works like my inductive coupling transformer...? With this torus that you put an example, never will work...!





I will insist you that the best member of overunity build a torus and swicht on 5 12 volts Led bulbs with only 3 or 4 volts ...!

[/size]

Void

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2333
I will insist you that the best member of overunity build a torus and switch on 5 12 volts Led bulbs with only 3 or 4 volts ...!

Hi Skycollection. Volts in compared to the volts out is not a useful comparison. You have to compare power in
compared to power out to get any idea how the circuit is performing. AA batteries can supply quite a bit of power
(current times voltage) and 12V LED bulbs are only usually around one to a few watts per bulb at maximum brightness,
depending on the bulbs you are using.
All the best...



Vortex1

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 518
Hi Jorge

You mentioned wanting to eliminate your rotor magnet.

Try this "old school" multi-vibrator circuit. It is one of my favorites.

It uses the same transistors you are now using in a slightly different configuration.

You may have to experiment with the values for C1 and R1, and if you can measure the inductance of your driving coil, I can approximate better values for C1, R1.

As the circuit  stands it charges the inductor about every 8 milliseconds and discharges in 2 milliseconds, with a burst of high current pulses into the LED.

The scopeshot shows the inductor ramp up and discharge current (white), during the inductor discharge, you can see the LED current pulses in blue'

It should be self starting. You can use a potentiometer in series with R1 to adjust the firing rate and brightness.

It might also help to add a ferrite rod through your coils to raise the inductance. It will also allow the circuit to operate at a lower frequency, so switching loss will not be a big problem.

When everything is properly tuned to your coils, you will be amazed what this little circuit can do.

There are many additional refinements that can be added to the circuit to increase its efficiency, but this is a good starting point for you.

Kind Regards
Vorex1 / ION

TinselKoala

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13958
@skycollection:

I encourage you to learn how to use and interpret your oscilloscope. From the display in your video we can see (although not properly triggered and stable) a signal that indicates very normal "joule thief" behaviour: That is, sharp pulses of higher voltage, with a shoulder that indicates the LEDs turning on, a relatively short "on" duty cycle, and a blank (off) space between them. 

The scope, when properly used and properly interpreted, will show you exactly what is happening in your circuit, and you will probably see that you are creating relatively high _peak power_ levels to the LEDs, but since there are those long "blank" spaces, the _average power_ output to the LEDs developed by your circuit will be less than the average input power. The difference is in waste heat (the components warm up slightly) and RF radiation (as your radio receiver indicates.)

Voltage amplification is not energy, peak power is not energy. Below you can see my HVJT, which lights up 6 each 90-volt NE-2 neons _in series_ from a single AAA battery delivering less than 1.3 volts. This circuit makes spikes that are in excess of 800 volts -- very short duration spikes. This is how it is able to boost the voltage so high. The neons look like they are continuously lit, but they are not. The -peak power- developed in this circuit is high... but the average power is low. People on this forum, in the long-running Joule Thief threads, have seen hundreds of LEDs lit up brilliantly on much less input voltage than you are using with your circuit. CFLs, too. The message here is that voltage amplification alone is not energy amplification, so please don't get too excited about it.


By the way, I really liked your PMBO entry, I thought it should have won the contest, perhaps in a tie with Tommey Reed's radial PM.

skycollection

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 169
Thanks VORTEX1 i have a similar circuit but i like yours, i apreciate your time, i would like to know more about this multi-vibrator, if you have some link and the applications, i would like to study the properties, i will make the circuit this week and make a test with the pancake coils. The zener diode 1N5817 is the same a "fast diode"...? how many volts...? i sow the link and is a schottky barrier rectifier, i have little diodes and i will try.
The .01 ufd is ceramic capacitor...? is not difficult to make, it uses the same transistors that i am using with different configuration.

skycollection

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 169
Tinselkoala, i understand your explanation and i will continue experimenting with my oscilloscope, i sow that my scope is not complete, i will try to study more about the use and specifications, (MY PROBLEM IS THAT I NEVER STUDIED ELECTRONICS) but i will the best i can.


About the entry 2014, i have a potential enemy, is ZERO FOSSIL FUEL, which attacked me with a stupid video  few years ago for no reason, for that  was my disqualification, this man needs urgent to visit A GOOD PSYCHIATRIST...![/size]

Vortex1

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 518
Hi Jorge

For best efficiency, you don't want to switch too fast, 30 pulses per second should be fine. You can adjust C1 and R1 as I said, but may get best results by adding a ferrite rod.

The circuit is generic and should be all over the net, I don't have any links, did it from my old memory.

TK:

Good advice on the scope use. I always enjoy seeing your innovative breadboards....like the battery holder in the last one with the anode adjuster!  ;)

I have some neons with a Radium coating on the outside envelope, removed from old electronic equipment. I think the Radium was put on to lower the ionization voltage, but I haven't tested them yet . Can't wait to put those into a project, but need to find my lead suit.  :P I've also read somewhere that certain neons have radioactive doped electrodes.

Regards, Vortex1 / ION


Void

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2333
Hi Skycollection, an oscilloscope is useful if you want to look at the waveform shapes, but not essential
for what you are doing. It will probably be more useful and simpler for you to place a current meter (ammeter) in one of the
battery wires to measure the DC current coming from your batteries (or from your super capacitors). You can then multiply
the current you measure from the battery times the battery terminal voltage to get a fairly good idea of your input power.
Without making this measurement you just don't know how your circuit is performing at all. This is easy to do and would be a
good start if you are interested in trying to see how you circuit is really performing. Your circuit is working well, but LED lights can be
quite deceiving. The LED lights could be running at half power or less, and the LED lights can still glow quite brightly.
All the best...