I was convinced that the power coming out from those cells was not only galvanic.

Now, you should see a clear pattern where the one that is watered most frequently is the first to die in total corrosion before the rest
but it will not be the one giving the most power ration in relation to length of life. The one with the least frequently water added will be
living MUCH LONGER useful life and power ration in relation to life length.

In other words, the one that receive the least amount of water/Epson will be the one giving the most amount of power AND life much,
much longer than the rest to the point that you will notice that EVEN ADDING the life length of the first 2 it will still win.

Fausto.

Before cell #344, I had made about 20 wood glue cells with 50/50 borax and sea salt. I am still testing this in the way you described.
I accidentally break off the single mag strip once in a while, which to means the cell is volunteering to be dissected, so I oblige. I don't
see any deterioration on the mag strips or copper, unless I accidentally put the salt/borax near the copper or mag. For most of these
cells, I put some tissue between the salt and glue, but for the others, there was some deterioration. More watering and use made those
deteriorate, but not the others. So, insulating the electrodes is key. This is the purpose of making a semiconductor on the electrodes,
but from my experience, you can do this without cooking...

Also, with constant use, they tend to give little power after a few days or a week, but if I let them sit for a day or a week, they come
back to full power. I am not sure if this is what you are looking for, but I have seen this in many many many of my other 300+ builds
too.

I think these are 2 separate issues - galvanic or not, these cells come back to life with a little rest. My goal is to retard the galvanic
process for at least 6 months with constant use. When I get this, a simple solution to giving them daily rest periods is to add a light
sensor circuit to turn them off for about half the day. This will make the cells last probably twice as long, so now we are talking at
least a year before any rebuild is necessary, but the circuit build is a pain.

I am still looking for a simple solution for a light sensing circuit. There are photo resistors that have an open resistance of less than
1 ohm, which would be what I need, but they are relatively expensive. The ones I have start at around 4k to 5k ohms... even with
tuning, they aren't sensitive enough to shut the circuit off with very low light, or even moderate light.

So, I think I have proved what you are saying about these cells coming back to life and I am on the right track since they all work
as you described, except I don't think the galvanic effect is is a separate issue.

This IS what I talking about. I call it dormancy period or state. This is a proof that corrosion is not the only thing here. Use that as a
 guidance for the fine tuning of your "formula". Fausto.

I talked to Peter Linderman earlier this year and he gave me his opinion on this, with which I agree. I hadn't thought of it before, but these
cells are partially a thermo electric generator. To test this, I took four of my similar cells that were exhausted from constant use, put 2
exhausted cells in the fridge, and left 2 in room temperature. I took one from the fridge and one at room temperature and hooked up them
up to JT's. They both worked, but the one from the fridge wasn't near as bright and couldn't get it's act together until I finally left it
disconnected from a load for a day, then it came back to life. For the other two, I let the one from the fridge sit for a day and then hooked it
and the last one that had been sitting at room temp up to JT's... the fridge cell had more power than the one from the last test, but it
was no match for the one that had been sitting without load at room temperature for several days.

Bedini has a video of a carbon / mag strip battery - a LidMotor replication - he explains that it is not a galvanic cell, but rather a thermo
electric cell and showed a few degrees difference in temperature between the mag strip and the carbon rod... So, I think that's what's
going on here when there is no galvanic effect.

The MnO2 will give that effect, and possibly the activated carbon, but I get this with all most of my electrolyte mixes, and I am not sure
if this is coming from the crystals or the electrolyte or the electrodes or some combination of those 3 things. Interesting!

PS - LidMotor was calling it an air battery as I remember.

It is interesting. Create a new test to prove their theory. Create a cell with LOTS of paper around the Magnesium.
All the cells with exact same formula but change ONLY the geometry. Report what you will find.
I bet the one with most "space" between the electrodes and lots of "crystals" will work better.
Thermo!!! Hmmm, why my videos where called "Thermo Static cell" ??
Fausto.

Actually... cell #359 has a ton of coffee filter in it and it is very weak. I'll figure a more controlled test... not sure if I will get to it today...
I am working on an easy way to log AND review the performance of multiple cells IN DETAIL and don't want to start more until I have
that done. I guess there is no interest in the application... I have to work it out with paper first anyway... I think a tac and small 2" x 4"
clip board next to each shelf is the way to go at this point... notepad isn't working for me anymore...

I thought you called it Thermo Static because you were cooking it with electricity... I don't think "static" describes thermo "electric",
but I could be wrong...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_generator
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/thermostatic

Actually... cell #359 has a ton of coffee filter in it and it is very weak. I'll figure a more controlled test... not sure if I will get to it today...
I am working on an easy way to log AND review the performance of multiple cells IN DETAIL and don't want to start more until I have
that done. I guess there is no interest in the application... I have to work it out with paper first anyway... I think a tac and small 2" x 4"
clip board next to each shelf is the way to go at this point... notepad isn't working for me anymore...

I thought you called it Thermo Static because you were cooking it with electricity... I don't think "static" describes thermo "electric",
but I could be wrong...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_generator
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/thermostatic

What I meant about more power is the TOTAL power output over time. Not the initial "cranking amps" capacity.


The thermo static name on my videos has to do with the "thermo reactor" effect (which in one of the videos privately shared here I say it). The electrodes do present one to two degrees Celsius difference indeed. The static comes from the "cooking"/zapping/FC62 process which accelerates the process of crystallization.


I know you don't like the zapping but I will make a video showing how small a cell can be and how much more power it comes out for the same equivalent amount of matter used. The only explanation will be the zapping or as I call it, FC62 (Formula/Composition 62 volts).


If you want to test even further this "crystallization" theory of mine, add more than one crystal to the build process, preferably crystals that have very different growth speeds and water absorption.


The penta hydro meta silicates , that you have tested in a few cells, plays the function of HOLDING water FOR THE CRYSTAL not necessary for the chemical reactions. But to get it to a usable form, one must play correctly and understanding the functionality of each element and their resulting effects.


Fausto.

The JT circuits couldn't handle the power of the crystal cells, so I had to add resistors while the cells settle down...
http://youtu.be/coQ8OYUuqBY

@Tgraca Have #30 wire will wind . how to you like you pocket Oscilliscope? I was looking at the DSO 201....

It works great. It's light and easy to move around from work area to work area... and its cheap, so if I fry it, it's not as big of a deal
as frying one of those big machines. I hope you enjoy that kit... I don't have the patience for a kit, plus the blue one is only a few
bucks more and will probably hold up better to dropping it... my meters take a lot of abuse. I think everything I have is "technically"
disposable for that very reason.

Here is a graph 4 cells I made F149 mix i could only zap with 12volt battery because it kept tripping my 30v power supply.
This test is open air meaning not sealed like Fausto's, I'm doing that next.
The load is a white LED, I'll do the same one the sealed one . Next tests will be 100 ohm resister afterwards.
Also have a kit on order from my China friends to measure inductance.[size=78%]http://m.ebay.com/itm/251609065467?txnId=1566142715015[/size]
This is called "Battery 1 F149"Im going to let rest for a week til I activate with the epsom.
@Tgraca Have #30 wire will wind . how to you like you pocket Oscilliscope? I was looking at the DSO 201....

Isn't interesting how this graph is totally different than the ones I have been showing?


Good work.

Fausto.

I am always looking for a cheap and effective material to mold my own cores for transformers, but this stuff is relatively expensive....
If you decide to experiment with it, please share your experiences!
http://www.tmart.com/HK-ZOYO-Magnetic-Night-Glowing-Kids-Thinking-Putty-Educational-Clay-Plasticine-Toy-Pressure-Reduction-Toy-Silver_p243320.html?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=news&utm_content=1211op&utm_campaign=Dec11sy