I think this is awful production. When you see somebody stating they are producing this amount of gas at .2 amps, it is using a high voltage. Reduce the voltage from say the 100 volts they are using to 10 volts and you get 20 amps. At 20 amps, my cells decimate this amount.
Also, there is a skeptic out there running his mouth about Bob Boyces 101 plate electrolyzer. He is stating that Fast Freddy and Stan's unit produce enough gas to run a vehicle but Bob's won't. All I have to say is if this man has a clue on how to build Bob's system, he would try to do so with the correct diagrams that are not listed online, or at least try to figure it out. Bob hints that Stan has put all the info out there that we all need. I have capitalized on this message because it simply means you have to figure out his system using stan's formulas. Bob's electrolyzer puts out and smashes Fast Freddy's output 365 days per year, 1000 years in a row. I know because I have used this for a long time. The cell doesn't pour water into the hoses, and even if it did, you dont have to worry about it if you set up the system correctly. Using the BB 101 plate electrolyser, I am getting nearly 48 lpm with less than 4 amps of juice at 165 volts dc. A 1200 watt inverter doesn't shut off, which powers the circuit that ends up being rectified and feeds a few components, a capacitor bank, a current limiting cap, and then a couple of inductors that I self wound.
The PWM3G needed to be modified so the FETS didn't blow up, but with IGBT technology, this was a simple replacement, as well, they don't even get warm. The water stays ice cold because it is slammed full of juice from the TPU that I built. One thing I will say is that the toroid needs to be wound with a complete bias winding, CCW from the top of the toroid, evenly, all the way across, down through the middle, and back up the side to meet the beginning of the winding. A good pwm can power this to create the electromagnet that creates the reduction in amperage which makes it run at about 1/3 of the normal amperage, as well, distorts the waveform into the "ether" you see on the scope from Hydrogen Garage. This is the key to success because there is no step charge needed, no unipolar waveform, nor do you need to create resonance or find the key frequency because Bob has found the key frequency, which his electronics do all of this for you with a small amount of adjustment after you get rid of the IRF transistor and replace it with the IGBT. The Bifilar winding is merely influenced by the 3 frequencies to allow radiant energy to be absorbed by the toroid along with the heavy magnetism that rotates in the same manner as the energy it draws and sends to the cell. Sometimes you get hundreds of amps of power sent to the cell, sometimes there is only what is drawn from the electric supply, plus maybe 20 or 25% radiant cold energy feed. The radiant energy is cold electricity that does not work in the same manner as negative electron flow. It works like a static electricity which is pushed through the outside coating of the wire, which is silver, kind of like lightning, or a static charge discharges.. High radiant energy needs a radially coated conductor to flow correctly because , or moisture to flow through. You set one frequency and let the circuitry divide the other two in half perfectly, but, we have to follow the formula according to how he tells us to heat the cell up to find the necessary variables to make the entire system work. Every cell is different, they use different water, different catalysts (a small amount different), as well, the stainless used will be different mixes, more or less molys, as well, the voltages will never be identical.
There are so many variables, but, one thing I know is that his circuit surely produces monatomic hydrogen because it is so much more powerful than normal brute force electrolyzed HHO. I tried both on my garden tractor. The 21 plate dry cell I have was set up as a parallel cell with a 12 volt battery and high concentrations of KOH. The tractor popped and farted, and just died.
I hooked the 101 plate electrolyzer to the tractor's intake by just laying the hose in there. It started, ran perfect, and I never even touched the timing on it. I also only ran the system with the tractor's charge system and an inverter to power the cell at maybe .3 amps which is about 49 watts, which read 4.2 amps on the feed line to the inverter. It made plenty of gas to operate the engine when the other cell was operating at 12 volts at 20 amps from a power supply which was fed from my house power. I can't mount the house on the tractor, but, it was pretty neat to see the tractor operate off of it's own power without dying. I would have left it like this, but, the cell was way too bulky and the inverter didn't quite mount to the tractor nicely. I will build something more compact some day, but it was cool to see 3.5 lpm come from the cell running from 4.2 amps on the feed to the inverter that powered it. If that's not overunity, I don't know what is. Anyway, I really dont say it's overunity if it is using radiant energy, but, if it isn't radiant, I can't say where the energy comes from. The only other explanation is that the water is really getting tickled apart!
The cell should be controlled with a router speed controller to turn the voltage up and down, or, you could use a throttle position sensor to turn it up and down. The cell makes so much gas that pretty much less than 1/3 can be dispersed if driven into the fuel rail of a vehicle. I ran my plow truck with this, but, the unit kept freezing up. When I added 91% rubbing alcohol to the water, it threw off the system and the harmonics necessary needed to be changed to operate correctly. When I did this, once the cell was cool , it wouldn't take off because the frequency necessary changes. The cell maybe heats up 25-35 degrees, depending on the amount of KOH, but, never gets past 90-95 degrees fahrenheit ever!
If anybody has any questions, please do ask me. I have played with the windings until I had some success. I built about 9 different toroids until one finally worked, then, I used this for a "home base" of the calcs he had listed. Somebody threw his calculations off when published, but, they certainly need to be corrected everywhere online. As well, you will need to speak to Brother Andrew to find out what was purposely written wrong so it doesn't work out of the box when you buy the pwm3g or higher.