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Author Topic: 25mV Joule Thief powered by peltier merely using our body heat -Free energy 24/7  (Read 170746 times)

Offline scratchrobot

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I also got my 2SK170 transistors and finally it's working now ;D
The led seems to start glowing around 35mv, will do some more testing with this nice circuit.
Thanks Magpwr and others for helping me getting started with this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWqo4akFdVk

Regards,

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy


Offline magpwr

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Hi,

Glad to know the circuit is working for you guys to validate my ultra low voltage joule thief claims.

Just to clarify the "25mV" i meant was the JFET base circuit starts to "self oscillate" it's not about lighting led at 25mV.

It's slighthy higher at around 50mV input for lighting white led.





Offline conradelektro

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50 mV is the best I can do. Coil ratio 10:100 seems to be marginally better than ratio 4:100. I see not much difference between using one or two 2SK170 transistors.

I did some tests with home made batteries and with a 50 x 50 mm Peltier Element. See the attached photos and the circuit diagram.

This Joule Thief circuit with the 2SK170 transistor does what I hoped it would do:

1) It works with just one cell of a home made battery. The two batteries I tested today each hold a Voltage of about 150 mV when connected to the circuit and the white LED glows nicely.

2) It also works with just one Peltier Element at a very moderate temperature differential. I had an aluminium plate at both sides of the Peltier Element. The cold side aluminium reached into cold tab water and the hot side aluminium was warmed up by hand. It also works without the cold water reservoir (the cold side at room temperature), but after some minutes the temperature of the cold side will warm up towards the temperature of the hand.

Will try with a different Toroid and with 4 transistors in parallel. In the coming days I also want to do tests with an air coil and some ALD110800 and ALD110900 transistors should arrive soon.

It might be necessary to change the circuit for the ALD110900 or ALD110800 because the Gate has a diode towards the negative rail in order to protect the transistor from a wrong potential between Gate and Source (Gate should not go below Source). But it might be possible to leave the diode pin unconnected (pin V- of the component left open)? We will see whether the component needs a connection to the negative rail? If not, the circuit can stay as it is.

Greetings, Conrad

Offline scratchrobot

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I used a small 10mm toroid 100:4 and there is not much difference when using 1 or 4 2SK170 transistors but with 4 the led glows a little better. I did a test in the dark and the led starts glowing at around 30ma input from the peltier. I made another video, the led is above the multimeter. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ak-aFHztZLg


Offline conradelektro

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I used a small 10mm toroid 100:4 and there is not much difference when using 1 or 4 2SK170 transistors but with 4 the led glows a little better. I did a test in the dark and the led starts glowing at around 30ma input from the peltier. I made another video, the led is above the multimeter. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ak-aFHztZLg

@scratchrobot: following your idea and video of doing a test in the dark, I see a very faint glow in the white LED at 36 mV (using the Peltier Element as shown in the photo in may last post). Because my DMM is not a top quality instrument, let's say it happens at 40 mV. (Circuit shown in my last post.)

I am impressed by the 2SK170 transistor, it seems to allow oscillation at very low Voltages (which I even can not measure with my instruments). It already oscillates well below the Voltage at which the LED starts to glow.

I am very happy that all seems to work very well at 100 mV (LED sufficiently bright to impress onlookers), which is good enough for most home made very simple battery cells and for simple Peltier experiments with body warmth and ambient temperature.

I plan a "coffee or tea cup temperature indicator" on top of which one places a hot or warm cup or mug and the gadget inicates whether it is till warmer than room temperature by the glowing LED. Not realy a world saving invention, but it could serve as a novelty item for science geeks.

Tomorrow I will test an earth battery  in the garden (copper and aluminium tube driven into the ground in close proximity).


@magpqr: thank you for clearyfying the 25 mV result, I thought I did something wrong because my white LED only started to shine at 50 mV. With a good Voltmeter (very high impedance) one could may be see oscillation with a 2SK170 at even lower Voltages than 25 mV.

Greetings, Conrad

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Offline scratchrobot

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 a "coffee or tea cup temperature indicator"

Nice idea!

Offline magpwr

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Hi,

I figured out in order to find out at which low voltage the JFET base joule thief starts oscillation if we don't have an oscilloscope.We could use piezo speaker only provided the frequency is running at <20KHZ for sound to be heard.
It doesn't matter if we don't hear anything since we could use Led as simple indicator.

There is another plan which i have in my mind which i'm planning on doing to increase output power from 25mV joule thief with <4mA current draw.
Please look at the youtube videos by searching for the 2 youtube user "name" indicated below first(Please jump to last paragraph at the bottom then come back here) .To understand i'm really talking about.
The plan is to connect the copper pipe with toroid like shown in video.One end of copper pipe with 6 toroid around it goes to the JFET Drain and other end of copper pipe goes to primary coil.

The reason why i'm planning this is because if you think "copper pipe" by itself which means impedance is very very low likely below 0.01 Ohms for a short copper pipe.right...
The Larskro circuit with copper pipe\toroid combination as shown below somehow reveal that with even such a very low Ohms between copper pipe not to mention the micro voltage if any exist on copper pipe during operation is very very tiny.Yet the output from inside the copper pipe could light Leds brightly.
My observation of those video as shown below from my perspective the circuit using 1.5volt merely serve as "oscillator" for the copper pipe/toroid combination.
Since 25mV JFET base circuit\Joule Thief is also a Oscillator/ultra low voltage version . If we connect to (one end of copper pipe between primary coil and JFET drain).This pipe with toroid around it in theory would "resonate" as well and in theory produce more power to light LED or many leds .Maybe we could even stepped up voltage from there from the pipe,but not figured out yet if need too.

Hence no power need to be tapped from the Gate of JFET like in current circuit example to power Led since this time more power is produce from within the copper pipe/toroid to light more leds (theory).





I have received the toroids but i need to find time over weekend to go to hardware shop to get  2 type of smaller copper pipe to fit 2 version of toroid shown in video link below.In theory this may be even more efficient.

Youtube user "Larskro" Title "Resonant LCR Amazing Circuit 2" or same tube user- Title "Amazing Circuit duplication of Larskro YT-video"
Youtube "capindres" "Double Amazing Joule Thief video" (A big improvement over Larskro's version 100++ really bright Led on 1xAA)

Those toroids base on the 3 videos are purchased from here.
http://www.cwsbytemark.com

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Offline conradelektro

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@magpwr: please look at the attached circuit. Is this what you imagine?

Greetings, Conrad

Offline magpwr

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Hi Conradelektro,


It should still be based on the original circuit design for 25mV joule thief.The one you have posted recently in this forum.But this  time connection will  be "JFET (drain\collector) to (one end of copper pipe ,then another end of copper pipe)  to toroid 4 turns " in series.

Original connection is JFET Drain\collector directly connected to toroid 4 turns(Which is already less than 1 Ohms).

The (100:4)toroid is still needed to serve as oscillator to resonate copper pipe with 6 toroid around it.



Offline conradelektro

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Hi Conradelektro,

It should still be based on the original circuit design for 25mV joule thief.The one you have posted recently in this forum.But this  time connection will  be "JFET (drain\collector) to (one end of copper pipe ,then another end of copper pipe)  to toroid 4 turns " in series.

Original connection is JFET Drain\collector directly connected to toroid 4 turns(Which is already less than 1 Ohms).

The (100:4)toroid is still needed to serve as oscillator to resonate copper pipe with 6 toroid around it.

@magpwr: in case the toroid should stay in the circuit as you describe, I would put the usual bifilar 10 turns on the toroid, because the 100 turns for the Gate are only needed to lift the Voltage above the 2.2 Volt level for the diode. Since the diode will be fed via the copper tube, this Voltage lift at the Gate of the transistor is not needed any more.

I am always a bit reluctant to let the Gate of a transistor go much below the Source (or the Base below the Emmiter in an NPN transistor) because this can cause damage (at least conventional transitor wisdom claims that).

Of course, only a test can give clarification, this is just theoretical waffling.

Greetings, Conrad

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Offline magpwr

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Hi Conradelektro,

I have to agree with you as this is just theory.


The original circuit version by larskro may not be efficient enough which you have embedded into the circuit diagram to show me.Just realised it hours later after i woke up.
Since it's looks like shorting the transistor  by directly connecting to pipe from transistor collector.There will be a usual voltage drop maybe 0.9v across BDX33 and current would be very high could drain 1xAA very easily.

The circuit i'm referring to is a better version where copper pipe is connected in series with coil.Just refer to the circuit diagram shown below.

A another version from the original larkro circuit using copper pipe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlVkfaFiKiE

That's the reason why i plan to connect the 25mv Joule thief toroid 4 turns in series with copper pipe.In theory may work ,maybe.
Base on the above youtube i think there will be higher voltage drop across coil since there is more turns in the coil base on youtube link.We need to be aware copper pipe resistance is very very low <0.05Ohms.And yet this above video work still amaze me.





Offline conradelektro

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@magpwr: the video you mentioned (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlVkfaFiKiE) is very interesting.

I attach a drawing that depicts how I understand your idea (toroid + copper pipe with many toroids).

Greetings, Conrad


Offline magpwr

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Hi conradelektro,

Yes that is the plan in my mind.Thanks for drawing out the circuit diagram.

May i ask what software you use.

Offline conradelektro

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@magpwr: I just used Windows Paint (Windows 7).

Windows Paint is good enough for simple diagrams and if you have a Windows System you have Paint for free.

For more complicated drawing jobs I use TurboCAD Delux V12 (rather old version). Today they sell Version 19 http://www.turbocad.com/TurboCAD/TurboCADWindows/TurboCADDeluxe19/tabid/1869/Default.aspx.

Many people use circuit design programms, some of them are free of charge. But they are usually too complicated for simple circuits.

One could use Gimp on a Linux System. I also have Gimp for Windows http://www.gimp.org/downloads/ and sometimes I use it too.


Tomorrow I will look through my copper pipes and toroids to test your idea. From the video of Eva Aboriđanin I conclude that it migh just work.

Greetings, Conrad


Offline conradelektro

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Update "many toroids over copper pipe" and transistor ALD110800 or ALD110900:

1) Many Toroids Over Copper Pipe: Total Failure!

I fabricated such a strange "many toroids over copper pipe" (see attached photo) and put it into magpwr's circuit as indicated in the schematics published with my Reply #56 in this thread (my second last post). If I leave the LED in its original place one sees that the circuit oscillates and the LED glows. But I can not get anything out of the "many toroids over copper pipe". May be it only works with high power (e.g. 500 mA flowing through).

But, please, I do not want to discourage anybody. It is important that others try as well.

2) Transistor ALD110800 or ALD110900: These transistors are not a one to one replacement of the 2SK170. So, do not buy them yet.

I put an ALD110900 in magpwr's circuit instead of two 2SK170 transistors. The circuit starts to oscillate (LED glowing) at about 0.4 Volt but stops after a few seconds. Changing the resistor in front of the gate does not help, it does the same without any resistor.

I have to do more tests and experiments. My impression is that the component (the ALD110900) needs a connection to the negative rail which implies that the LED has to go elsewhere. In case the V- pin is not connected some strange charge seems to build up inside the component. In other words, the Gate needs the internal diode connection to the negative rail in order to function properly.

There might be some other problems, I am not really an expert. But I will play with it some more. It shows once more how lucky we are that magpwr identified the 2SK170.

Greetings, Conrad

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy


 

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