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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY  (Read 6115140 times)

Offline Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18225 on: October 10, 2017, 01:06:10 AM »
This one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ehz4MT8ec8
It's all Cepren's work

Hi AG. I have seen that Andrian Guska video before, for which his device seems to actually be
based very closely on Ruslan's early replications of Akula's device using a kacher.
I was asking which Stalker video I should watch in which he shows a (supposed) self runner.
Unless you are saying Stalker and Andrian Guska are the same person?



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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18225 on: October 10, 2017, 01:06:10 AM »

Offline AlienGrey

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18226 on: October 10, 2017, 08:24:20 AM »
this data might be of help to some of you while winding this device, of course the frequency with your catcher might be different but i'm sure you could build your own coil winding data base coil winding relationship.

Note formula data rounded up to 2 decimal places rather than the full cut and pasted calculation being listed.

Also be aware if using this formula relationship the coil winder might find it hard to be able to archive
Katcher self osculation very easily unless using a VFO driver of some kind when the coil windings have been reduced
to 1/2 wave or less.

http://www.procato.com/calculator-wavelength-frequency/

Wave length to  meters


1.67mhz   179.52  meters
3.34mhz   89.76    meters  2nd  harmonic  1 wave
5.01mhz   59.84    meters  3rd  harmonic
6.68mhz  44.88     meters  4th  harmonic  ¼ wave
8.4mhz    35.69     meters  5th  harmonic
10.02mhz  29.92   meters 6th  harmonic
11.69mhz  25.64   meters 7th  harmonic
13.36mhz  22.44   meters 8th  harmonic
15.03mhz  19.95     meters 9th  harmonic
16.7mhz    17.95   meters  10th  harmonic

=======================
Version 2

38 metera    7.889275210526315  Mhz
19 meters    15.77855042105263  Mhz
« Last Edit: October 10, 2017, 01:35:40 PM by AlienGrey »

Offline TinselKoala

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18227 on: October 10, 2017, 08:52:06 AM »
This one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ehz4MT8ec8

It's all Cepren's work

I suggest you watch them all, you have much to catch up on.

Grrr. Once again.... The English letters C e p r e n are approximations of the Cyrillic letters  С е р г е й 
and in English this is pronounced and spelled "Ser-gey" or Sergei, not "Sep-ren".

http://learningrussian.net/pronunciation/transliteration.php

Offline TinselKoala

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18228 on: October 10, 2017, 09:01:08 AM »
this data might be of help to some of you while winding this device, of course the frequency with your catcher might be different but i'm sure you could build your own coil winding data base coil winding relationship.


http://www.procato.com/calculator-wavelength-frequency/

Wave length to  meters


1.67mhz   179.51644191616765  meters
3.34mhz   89.75822095808383    meters  2nd  harmonic  1 wave
5.01mhz   59.83881397205589    meters  3rd  harmonic
6.68mhz  44.87911047904191     meters  4th  harmonic  ¼ wave
8.4mhz    35.68957833333333     meters  5th  harmonic
10.02mhz  29.919406986027944   meters 6th  harmonic
11.69mhz  25.645205988023953   meters 7th  harmonic
13.36mhz  22.439555239520956   meters 8th  harmonic
15.03mhz  19.94627132401863     meters 9th  harmonic
16.7mhz    17.951644191616765   meters  10th  harmonic

=======================
Version 2

38 metera    7.889275210526315  Mhz
19 meters    15.77855042105263  Mhz

All this demonstrates is that your calculator can spit out meaningless numbers after the decimal point. This is FALSE PRECISION. I challenge you to tell the difference between 7.889275210526315 MHz and 7.889275210526316 MHz, or  between 17.951644191616765 meters and 17.951644191616764 meters using any actual measuring device available to anyone.

The general rule in these matters is that you CANNOT have more precision in your result than the LEAST precise number that goes into the calculation. So saying, for example, that 19 meters  =  15.77855042105263  Mhz is simply wrong, even though your calculator might spit out all those numbers as the result of a numerical calculation. The best you can say in the reality of actually measured quantities is that 19 meters = about 16 MHz. Or 19.00 meters = 15.78 MHz. Or that 19.000 meters = 15.778 MHz. Get the idea? This is the concept known as "significant digits" or SigDigs for short.

Avoid false precision, as the more digits you have in the result of a calculation involving measurements, the more likely you are to be wrong.

Offline AlienGrey

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18229 on: October 10, 2017, 01:24:38 PM »
All this demonstrates is that your calculator can spit out meaningless numbers after the decimal point. This is FALSE PRECISION. I challenge you to tell the difference between 7.889275210526315 MHz and 7.889275210526316 MHz, or  between 17.951644191616765 meters and 17.951644191616764 meters using any actual measuring device available to anyone.

The general rule in these matters is that you CANNOT have more precision in your result than the LEAST precise number that goes into the calculation. So saying, for example, that 19 meters  =  15.77855042105263  Mhz is simply wrong, even though your calculator might spit out all those numbers as the result of a numerical calculation. The best you can say in the reality of actually measured quantities is that 19 meters = about 16 MHz. Or 19.00 meters = 15.78 MHz. Or that 19.000 meters = 15.778 MHz. Get the idea? This is the concept known as "significant digits" or SigDigs for short.

Avoid false precision, as the more digits you have in the result of a calculation involving measurements, the more likely you are to be wrong.
Tinsel nice to see you are back and to see you taking an interest in this tread.  ;D ;D

I'm sorry so many decimal places and i didn't use a calculator at all just cut and past  ;D obviously no one would use or be able to use that accuracy but never the less one needs to be at a few MM accuracy or you don't have the correct wave length and then no resonance to carry out meaning full tests, that over how ir the free energy coming along in the Tinsel work shack, any thing good ?

PS I don't have a problem with Cepren or Sergey or Enola Gaye for that mater as they are all handles and people need to find his youtube files and vids, if i was to put Sergey Stalker no one would find it. Also I don't want to get involved in East West bickering or the New world order or it's global control on here or anywhere else if thats the problem, Oh happy days !

Any way Kind  regards and I wish you well AG

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18229 on: October 10, 2017, 01:24:38 PM »
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Offline NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18230 on: October 12, 2017, 04:15:13 PM »
   Itsu:
   Have you tried to make the non dissipative snubber, yet?
   I have not found a combination of RC or Oleg snubber components that work well without heating up the resistors.
   But, I don't really fully understand just how to make the non dissipative snubber.
   Any chance that you could make a small diagram, showing the correct components and how to connect it all up to our induction system?

Online itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18231 on: October 12, 2017, 04:41:26 PM »

Nick,

no, i did not make the non dissipative snubbers yet, but i can do that.

The combination 0.1uF and 1mH will result in a resonance frequency of about 16Khz which is similar as being used by the push pull.
So that will not account for the ringing in Voids screenshot, which looks way higher (MHz).

Anyway, give me some days, i need to find the correct components etc.

Itsu 

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18231 on: October 12, 2017, 04:41:26 PM »
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Offline Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18232 on: October 12, 2017, 08:56:12 PM »
Hi Itsu. Yes, the ringing frequency seems higher than just from the L and C values alone.
Good observation. The original article that I referenced states:
"The resonant circuit formed by L2 and C1 when Q1 is turned on rings at a frequency of:
F=1/(2*PI*sqrt(L2*C1))"
From what they said, the ringing is supposed to be determined by the capacitor and inductor values used,
but, yes, that doesn't appear to match my test results.

There are also two diodes in there and the MOSFET, and it may actually be that the ringing
frequency is determined by the L value and the capacitance of the diodes and MOSFET in
series/parallel with the capacitor to get that higher ringing frequency. Changing the capacitor value
does seem to influence the ringing frequency however. I think I tried it with some larger capacitor values
between 0.1 uF and 1 uF and the ringing was at a lower frequency.

From my testing, an L value of around 450uH does not give good results, so I would
suggest trying at least 1 mH or higher for the L value.


Hi Nick. If you have any questions on it, feel free to ask me.
I am attaching a schematic drawing which shows how the non-dissipative
snubber, consisting of one capacitor, one inductor, and two diodes, connects
between the MOSFET Drain and Source and V+.  'V+' is the power supply plus terminal
which connects to the center tap of the yoke primary winding.
You would need two non-dissipative snubbers. One for each MOSFET in the PWM driver.

I am going to try using a couple of commercially wound 1 mH toroids for the inductors.
They are wound on an approximate one inch (25.4mm) outer diameter toroid.
I plan to solder my snubbers to my MOSFETs on a perf board this evening if I
have enough time, so it might be better to wait before ordering any parts for me to solder
together my snubber circuits and connect to my PWM driver and retest it to make sure all is OK.
Once I have it all soldered together using the 1mH toroids, I will restest my PWM driver board and
let you know if it is still working about the same as in my previous test. If everything is still
working about the same, then I will have more confidence that the non-dissipative snubber circuit
works reliably with the component values I am using.

P.S. I had accidentally omitted labelling the other two diodes in my previous drawing of the snubber circuits,
so I re-uploaded the drawing with the other two diodes labelled. :) I am using UF4007 diodes for all the diodes
in the snubbers.

« Last Edit: October 13, 2017, 02:54:23 AM by Void »

Offline Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18233 on: October 13, 2017, 06:08:48 AM »
I soldered my snubber board together and have started retesting. 
I am getting different results now, but I did make a couple of changes from
my previous setup. I don't have the two varistors connected in from the Drain to Source
of each MOSFET yet, and I added a 10uF cap from V+ (at the yoke primary center tap)
to ground.

I am getting quite different results now, but it may be due to the 10uF cap I added at V+.
Now I don't get the high frequency ringing any more, but just a single pulse that is limited
at a lower peak voltage. This is causing diodes D3 and D4 to get hot with V+ set only
to 12V. With V+ at 24V it looks like they could well burn. I am going to need to do
more testing yet, but my guess is the addition of the 10uF cap at V+ may be the reason why
things are working differently now. I will try removing the 10uF cap when I get a chance and
see if it starts working the way it did previously. If I leave the 10uF cap in, it seems I would have
to go with a different type of diode which can handle a fair bit more current.

See the attached scope shot of what I am getting at the moment with the 10uF connected.

Nick, it seems it might be an idea to hold off on the non-dissipative snubbers for the time being,
unless you don't mind spending some time experimenting with different values to try to find
the best configuration for your setup.


Online itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18234 on: October 13, 2017, 10:47:06 AM »
Void,

thanks for the info; that spike is rather "thick", so probably contains a fair amount of energy, but on the other hand it will stay within
your MOSFETs max voltage (200V) range when on 24V probably.

I do notice your V+ is sagging during the off time (when the other MOSFET is on), so are you sure your V+ ps is up to the job?

Furthermore, the diodes (D1 - D4) in the original paper are shown as schottky diodes, perhaps they are better suited for this situation.


Itsu

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18234 on: October 13, 2017, 10:47:06 AM »
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Offline Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18235 on: October 13, 2017, 12:47:16 PM »
Hi Itsu. I am not sure why I am getting different results now, but I guess maybe
the addition of the 10 uF cap. I will test more later when I get the chance. I thought
about it further, and another thing that is different now is I have two of these snubbers
connected now, but when I tested previously I only had one connected to one of the MOSFETs. 
Not sure yet if that could be a factor at all or not.

It's certainly possible that Schottky diodes could behave differently in this setup. I used the
UF4007 diodes because I already had some available, and they are fast recovery diodes.
The power supply I have been testing with is a bench power supply, and at 12V my test setup is
drawing less than 1 Amp, which shouldn't be a problem for the bench power supply.

Anyway, just wanted to post those new test results for something to watch out for, in case anyone
else was thinking of trying this type of snubber. I still have some more investigating to do to see
if I can figure out why I am getting different results now. The joys of snubbery. :)

All the best...


Offline MenofFather

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18236 on: October 13, 2017, 06:22:17 PM »
Quote
Now I don't get the high frequency ringing any more, but just a single pulse that is limited [/size]at a lower peak voltage. This is causing diodes D3 and D4 to get hot with V+ set only to 12V. With V+ at 24V it looks like they could well burn.
Maybe try use shottky diodes 40-100 V?


Offline Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18237 on: October 13, 2017, 10:22:33 PM »
Maybe try use shottky diodes 40-100 V?

Hi Menof. Welcome back! Long time no see. :)

My concern about using Schottky diodes is they typically don't have a very high
reverse voltage rating, and there are voltage spikes on the MOSFET Drains of
250+ volts peak with a power supply voltage of only 12V. This is why I used the
UF4007 diodes, because they have a reverse voltage rating of 1000V, so there should be
no danger of them blowing due to the voltage spikes. The diodes in these non-dissipative snubbers
may not see voltage peaks that high however, so a Schottky diode with a reverse voltage rating
of 100 volts or even less might possibly be ok. I would have to do some voltage measurements
on the diodes with my scope when the PWM driver is running to see what kind of voltage
swings the diodes get on them. 12R06D fast recovery diodes are another option (600V, 12A), but
Schottky diodes with a lower reverse voltage rating may still be ok, and may possibly work even
better than than regular fast recovery diodes in these snubbers.


I disconnected the 10uF at V+, and the Drain waveforms are more similar to what I saw in
my previous testing with some high frequency ringing, but not as much high frequency
ringing as previously. I don't have the two varistors connected in right now however, so they
may have contributed to the more prominent high frequency ringing previously and the lower
spike voltage peaks. Not sure.

With the 10uF cap disconnected from V+, all the diodes in the non-dissipative snubbers
are staying pretty cool however. They have just a little warming to the touch. The 2W resistors
in my series RC snubbers are only getting a little bit warm as well. The MOSFETs are staying
completely cool with only small heat sinks on them. I let the PWM driver run for about 5 minutes
with the 10uF cap disconnected and the non-dissipative snubber diodes and series RC snubber resistors
were only a little warm to the touch after the 5 mnutes. The MOSFETs were still completely cool.
The limited switching pulses were not balanced between my two FETs with the 10uF disconnected,
so not sure why. :) See the attached scope shot

Putting an electrolytic cap right at the yoke winding center tap point (V+) gives a cleaner and better
spike reduction, but you will need diodes that can handle a higher current than the UF4007
diodes can handle (1 Amp rating). 12R06D diodes or some type of Schottky diodes are a possible choice.

I still haven't tested at 24 volts yet however, but the non-dissipative snubbers may not keep the
spikes below 200V peak with a V+ of 24V. I need to add a better low pass filter setup for my
power supply before I test with 24 VDC. For now though, I think more experimenting with
different component value choices for the non-dissipative snubber might be a good idea to
to try to get even better results before trying with a  V+ of 24V. Without the 10uF cap connected,
the UF4007 diodes only get a bit warm with a V+ of 12V, but they may get too hot if using a
V+ of 24V.  It looks like I may well need to make some component value changes yet in those
non-dissipative snubbers to try to get better results before moving to testing with 24V. :)

The Allega RCD snubber configuration using around say a 10 Watt ceramic resistor value of 680 Ohms
or 820 Ohms may be less hassle if you don't want to mess around experimenting with different component
values with the non-dissipative snubber, even though the RCD snubber is less efficient...

P.S. I just looked it up and you can get Schottly diodes with quite high reverse voltage ratings and
high current ratings as well, so that might be the way to go since Schottky diodes have a lower
forward voltage drop, so less power consumption than regular diodes. Maybe I will give it a try,
but I would have to order some Schottky diodes first. :)

All the best...


Offline NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18238 on: October 14, 2017, 12:45:45 AM »
  Perhaps a heavy duty snubber system like the one in this video below, may be what is needed to deal with the heat on the resistors.
  Itsu, notice the 47 and 56 ohm white ceramic resistors in the video, same values as what I had on.
I can't tell what the blue caps are. I'd need Hoppy's magnifier for that, or someone that can understand what he's saying about those blue caps.
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqurZk12qIk&feature=youtu.be

   I used a similar white 2.2k ceramic resistor on the Oleg snubber, and it still got hot.
   Carbon, ceramic, wirewound, non wirewound, all get hot. The higher the ohm value of the Oleg snubber resistor, the hotter the RC snubber resistors get.
   I can get RM at lower voltages, at times now, like at around 150v and also the effect from hand movements on the antenna, etz... But, the resistors get hot at resonance, still. Too hot at loads over 100w.
The load is also an important consideration, as each bulb added, changes everything.

  Itsu: If I just use the blue 2000v caps on the RC snubber, and just a 1k ohm on the Oleg snubber,  I get real nice signals, almost perfect. But the resistors can't handle it after just a short while. However, the math provided for their values was right, though.

  Any ways, I'll wait a few days for you guys to have a chance to work the non dissapating snubber tests, or I might just jump in, even beforehand.

Offline Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18239 on: October 14, 2017, 01:06:34 AM »
Just measured the voltage on the cathode of diode D3 in the non-dissipative snubber.
With a V+ of 12V it is peaking at around 150V. If you use a V+ of 24V it is probably
going to be a fair bit higher, so Schottky or fast recovery diodes with a reverse breakdown
voltage of at least 250V would seem to be a good idea. A reverse breakdown voltage of 500V
or higher would probably be even safer.

The yellow trace shows the waveform on the cathode of diode D3 with V+ at 12V.

Nick, you could maybe go with a 10 Watt ceramic block resistor and it may well be able to take the
heat even if it gets really hot. You can get ceramic block power resistors that are metal oxide film.


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #18239 on: October 14, 2017, 01:06:34 AM »

 

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