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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY  (Read 11717758 times)

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17835 on: August 23, 2017, 10:50:54 AM »

Nick,

right, i am using ½w carbon resistors and they hold up ok.
Avoid using wire wound resistors.

Itsu

Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17836 on: August 24, 2017, 11:30:58 AM »
Saw something unusual last night, but it wasn't in a test setup on my work bench. :)

Last night there was a lightning storm, and there was a lightning strike that must have
been fairly close by as I saw the bright flash through a window, and the power switched off for
a second or two and then came back on again. They maybe have a surge protector on the power
line that caused the power to kick out for a second or two, I guess.

Anyway, later in the night I noticed that the outside light over the back door was on. I could
see it glowing brightly through the shades on a back window. I noticed the outside light was on
right away because I never turn that light on unless I go out the back door at night for some reason (rarely).
I checked the light switch and the switch was definitely fully down in the off position. I was puzzled
why the back outside light could be on when the switch was in the fully down (off) position. I switched
the switch on and then off again and the back outside light then turned off. The switch seemed to flick on
normally and flick off again normally.

I don't have any explanation for why the back outside light was on when the light switch was in the fully
off position. The back outside light does not have an automatic motion or light sensing switch on it. It is
just on a single regular mechanical flip switch. I tested the switch and it has to be a bit more than half way up
before the light turns on, and it was fully down. How the back outside light could be on when the switch was still all
the way down in the off position is beyond me. The switch does not appear to be damaged in any way. I tested
it quite a few times and it seems to be working perfectly normally. Talk about free energy... ;D

I suppose the most logical explanation would be that the switch contacts somehow got jostled and were
somehow making contact, but the switch toggle itself was in the fully down position and it is spring loaded.   :o
There was no one else in the house for the last while except me. I haven't used that switch in many months.
That light is off most of the time. Very seldom use it. Anyway, just something I thought was interesting, and
it seems kind of slow in this thread right now... :D

All the best...

P.S. Maybe the universe is trying to tell me something...
Lightning --> corona discharge --> sparkgaps --> free energy. ;D


NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17837 on: August 24, 2017, 06:58:21 PM »
  Itsu:
  I don't have the exact values needed for the snubbers.
  So, for now, I'm going to be installing a blue 2000v 103M plus a blue 472M, for total of about 15nf for each fet.
Plus a 56 ohm 3WJ (unknown type), along with each pare of snubbers caps.  How does that sound. OK?
  Question: As I already have installed the MUR3060 diodes across the fets drain/source. Should I just leave it the way it is now, and just add the snubers next to it? Or, should I connect it up to the rest of the snubber circuit. As is shown in Ruslan schematic, below?
 

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17838 on: August 24, 2017, 07:10:49 PM »

Nick,

sounds good to me, lets give it a try.

Leave the MURs as they are (aiding the internal MOSFET diodes).
If you hook them up like in the Ruslan diagram (across the resistor) then you surely need hefty (2W) resistors

Itsu

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17839 on: August 24, 2017, 08:23:14 PM »
   Itsu:
   The resistors are 3W ones. So, they should withstand some HV from the Kacher interactions, also.
Do you think that two 103M 2000v together would be better, at 20nf. Instead of a 103M and a 472M cap together, at 15nf?
   Ok, I'll leave the MUR3060 in place for now. I can always change their placement later to Ruslan's way, if needed.
   

   I'm also thinking about the 5000v (or whatever voltage) that the fets are going to be getting running through them when the Kacher is turned on.
   And I remember Geo's snubber resistors getting too hot.
   I wonder where Geo is... Maybe he hit on it, and ain't telling... He was getting close to it on his last videos, it would seam.
   I wish that he would PM me and let me know what's happening with him, as he's not posting much at all, lately.
And it would be good to see him here again.

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17840 on: August 24, 2017, 08:38:57 PM »

Nick,

OK, so you have fat 3W resistors, double check (google) they are no wire wound types.

i don't know if 15nF would be better then 20nF, you have to look for that yourself.
I don't think it will matter that much.

I don't understand your remark about the 5000V going through the MOSFETs with the Kacher on.
It should not as they are separate circuits.


Itsu




NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17841 on: August 24, 2017, 09:03:25 PM »
   I checked I but could not really identify those types of resistors properly. In any case, those are the only resistors that I have here on hand that are close to the right value, and may work, so we'll see. If they don't work, I'll order some new 47 ohm resistors, as those are the closest to recommended 45 ohm. 
   Don't worry about my comment about the Kacher's voltage interaction on the induction circuits. Just some concerns of mine...
   They may be separate circuits, until you turn both on together. Then they become one even more complex thing.

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17842 on: August 24, 2017, 09:14:52 PM »
Nick,

If the resistors are the same as the existing large resistors on your circuit board, then they appear to be wire-wound. If your gate resistors are of this type, then also change these for small carbon or metal oxide type resistors.

Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17843 on: August 24, 2017, 10:08:56 PM »
   I'm also thinking about the 5000v (or whatever voltage) that the fets are going to be getting running through them when the Kacher is turned on.

The series resonant loop including the yoke output winding, the series capacitor, and the 'inductor' winding
on the grenade probably act to help isolate the FETs in the push pull driver circuit from high voltage
induced from the tesla coil on the grenade winding.
 

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17844 on: August 24, 2017, 10:19:21 PM »
   No, Void. It's just the opposite. A video that I made previously was showing how the Kacher's HV pulses are going through to every thing, including even going back to the input source.
   The earth ground connection is the only thing that helps with that.

Void

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17845 on: August 24, 2017, 10:38:51 PM »
Hi Nick. Yes, when you are using the tesla coil, high voltage may be seen all around the circuit,
including the battery terminals, but the series resonant loop between the yoke core and grenade
should still help to isolate the push pull FETs from the direct high voltage from the tesla coil that
is being induced in the grenade coil windings.


NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17846 on: August 24, 2017, 11:02:45 PM »
Nick,

If the resistors are the same as the existing large resistors on your circuit board, then they appear to be wire-wound. If your gate resistors are of this type, then also change these for small carbon or metal oxide type resistors.

   Hoppy:  Here's a picture of both the caps that I'll be installing, as well as the two 56 ohm resistors. No, the resistors are not like the ceramic ones that I have on the TL board and drivers. These types of resistors are unknown to me. They are 56 ohm, 3w.
Maybe you can tell by looking at them if these resistors are carbon, or wire wound ones.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17847 on: August 25, 2017, 04:02:02 AM »
   Hoppy: I actually ended up using what I think is a smaller carbon type resistor, instead of the ones in the last picture.
   I used a 103M, and a 472M blue 2000v caps together, for 15nf, plus that smaller 56 ohm carbon resistor, for each Fet.
Scope is on the 50v per/div setting. 250v spikes on 12v input.

   Itsu: You certainly are the snubber expert, if there ever was one here. My word...
   Ok, snubbers installed.  Although the scope may show some pretty blurry traces, the snubber signals are clean as a whistle.
Except for those 250v peaks.
   I was using a 12v battery for the input, and 100w bulb as the load.
 
    I may consider that 250v peak not really that big a peak, just some fluffy static voltage with no real amps behind it, possibly.
 I shaded that part of the image so that you can see the faint part of the peak a bit better. Otherwise you can't hardly see it.
    The magic of math...
    Itsu's a wizzard...  but don't tell any one.
 

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17848 on: August 25, 2017, 09:28:39 AM »
Nick,

Looks good. If you do find the mosfets breakdown from voltage spikes, fit 150V transorbs (TVS diodes) to clamp the spikes.

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17849 on: August 25, 2017, 10:22:17 AM »

Nick,

indeed, looking good.

The spike is to be expected as the collapsing magnetic field needs to go somewhere.

As Hoppy said, you can try to minimize those by using a TVS to keep them below your MOSFETs breaking point.
I used the Oleg snubber as can be seen here: http://overunity.com/12736/kapanadze-cousin-dally-free-energy/msg509360/#msg509360

I think you need to fight that spike as with 24V on the drains it will be exceeding your MOSFETs specs.
Perhaps with 12V you can run it for a longer time to do some resonance tuning as it seems to me the scopeshots are not showing you are in resonance.

Itsu